XenoVibe

Hi.

Okay, so there is a 1986 FC i recently checked out. I think the owner said its a Sport package / model or maybe thought SE stands for Sports Edition? I read the stickied threads on here and came to the conclusion that its probably a GXL because it has power windows and no turbo.

Could power windows have been an option for the the lower trims? They said the car is stock and only had 2 owners. the doors look OEM with same faded paint and interior as the rest of the interior.

Also, if its a GXL model, what parts should I check for replacing to improve the motors longevity such like fluids, spark plugs, hoses, brake pads, etc.

What can I do with the engine? I dont want to spend alot of money on mods because i will only be driving it for a few months but I'd like to add some power. I was thinking I/H/E, P&P and a tune would suffice and I don't care if it sounds ricey. Can someone suggest the best piping size to get the most power out of it?

Any info to any of the questions would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

If it runs fine and you'll only be driving it for a "few months", I'd leave it alone.
Run the typical "new" used car routine (plugs/wires, filters, fluids, etc.) and call it a day.
Nothing easy and cheap will make such a big/dramatic difference and the NA's biggest selling point is it's reliability, never it's power.

Spirit-RE

iTrader: (25)

Only point in doing an exhaust on a na is for tone.

XenoVibe

Thanks dude Cheers.

Evil Aviator

The Canadian models had slightly different specifications than the US models. Also, there is no telling which parts have been swapped over the past 20+ years. The bottom line is that it doesn't matter a hill of beans which model it originally was. The car simply has whatever parts you see on it now.

See here before buying:
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy1.htm

Also, download a copy of one of the free online factory service manuals from the FAQ sticky at the top of this forum. Follow the "unique driving conditions" maintenance schedule in Chapter 0. See if the seller can tell you when the car was serviced so that you have a better idea about when the next service is due. Search this forum for recommendations on fluids and parts, or start a separate thread if you still have questions.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=494667

Besides the usual suspects, I recommend replacing the pulsation damper if it is original. When replacing this, it is a good time to send the fuel injectors out for cleaning, and to check the EFI fuel hoses for cracks. Don't forget to order a new manifold gasket when performing the work.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-pulsation.htm
http://witchhunter.com/

A non-turbo RX-7 intake is just fine as-is for a simple street car. You can install a high-flow drop-in K&N air filter if you like, but it will only make about 1hp difference if that. Generally, ricer-type cone filters just end up sucking in hot air from the radiator, and are really only useful for engines in excess of 200hp.

A well-designed header is the best bang for the buck, and a good exhaust system will help the header reach its full potential. Rotary engines have loud, scorching, high-pressure exhaust that will kill most of the mufflers that are popular for US domestic sports cars. The loud noise requires thicker pipes and better mufflers in order to avoid getting a ticket for noise or driving around town with a tinny sound that even the Honda owners will laugh at. You should to stick with exhaust components that are designed for rotary engines. Common brands include Racing Beat, Rotary Performance, Corksport, HKS, GReddy, and Apexi. Here are some links to general articles about rotary engine exhaust systems:
http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...y-exhaust.html
http://www.mazdatrix.com/exhaust.htm
Custom-made exhaust is the best way to go if you have the skill and/or money for it. Here is an example of a limited-production header:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=935939

In the rotary engine community, we use the "porting" term as opposed to "P&P". Engine intake and exhaust porting will require engine disassembly, so it is usually only performed during a rebuild. I recommend bypassing this mod until your engine needs rebuilding. Here is a link of a basic run-down on rotary engine porting. On this forum, we usually use the "street port" term as opposed to the "mild port" term.
http://mazdarotary.net/porting.htm