Alright, so my power windows usually work, however my passenger motor is shot..I think...

So far, i've cleaned the driver's side switch (needs it again), lubed the tracks and the mechanical gear inside the window, and this made the window actually move under it's own power, albeit slowly.

So the problem now, is the motor moves decently down, however BARELY moves going up. Not only that, but the engine is starting to sound pretty tired. I've got a video showing you what's happening, and well, that'll explain it much better.

Video: *video is coming, youtube has been 'processing' for the past 2 hours...*


So, I just want you guys to confirm what I think; I need a new passenger window motor, right?

 

The speed of the window motor is highly dependent on voltage across the battery.

 

I dont know why the engine would sound tired but from what youre describing it sounds exactly like a failing window motor to me. This is a common problem. You can pick up a new motor for around $60-80.

 

I always heard the electric motors in the windows/ sunroof were incredibly reliable. Although after 20 years, failure is probable.

 

Well I'm still waiting on youtube right now...

Thing is, the engine has a distinct sound to it, not the normal electric 'whirl', but almost a high pitched squeal.

arghx, it's not the battery. My driver's side window is about twice as fast as my passenger side window.

 

Video finally uploaded, here's what I'm talking about: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEvQ1erd2wU

 

Well. . . It sounds like the motor to me. I've had to work on every window related mechanism except the motor. . . So I'm not much help there. Good Luck.

Also, Icemark seems to have a good understanding of the FC electrical system. . . maybe he will chime in.

 

i would have to say its the regulator not the motor by the looks of it. the way it moves down jerky and the will barely go up i would have to say regulator not motor. but to be safe get a motor/regulator assembly, its usually cheeper to get the set than just one or the other. and it makes it a lot easier to change.

 

The window regulator has been re-lubed, that's one of the first times it's ever skipped going down.

 

Anybody know of a decent write up explaining how to remove the power window motor/regulator?

 

Before you get new regulators test your window switches, I think that is more than likely your problem. My car had the same issue multiple times over the last 7 years, it has always been the swiches, the S4 switches are horrible, but even the S5 switches like yours fail, slowing down is the #1 symptom from my experience. If they skip going up or down its your regulators.

 

99% of the time slow motors are from a bad switch or dirty window tracks...not a bad motor.

Motors almost never fail (I have only seen one ever) and when they do they stop working... they don't just go slow.

But it is easy to check. Go to the motor, unplug it. Take two jumper wires to a 12volt makita or other cordless power tool to the motor leads. If the motor runs fine, then you know it is the switch or wiring or tracks. Without a cordless power tool battery (any cordless power tool between 9 volts and 16 volts will work), then you can also use some jumper cables and run right to the car's battery.

 

sounds like my gxl!

 

Awesome, I never thought of jumpering the motor, I'll do that when I get home.

I'm a little hesitant about the switches though. I've recently cleaned them, and I've got S4 switches in-place of the shitty S5 ones on top of that.

Anyways, I'll jumper the motor, and clean the switches...again.

Cheers.

 

The S4 switches are the crappy ones, S5's are crappy too, but less crappy

 

Ugh, could've sworn the S4's were the better switches...Luckily they came with the car.

Edit - Neither window skips travelling up and down, both are smooth.

 

I snag all of the power window switches I find a the wrecking yards 90% of them are as slow or slower than the ones I have or don't work at all .

 

No, the S4 switches can be rebuilt and have much stronger contacts.

The S5 switches are weak slider switches, that the tabs break off internally and you can not rebuild them, and the contacts are only rated half of what the S4 switches can do.

 

If jumpering the motor works, and the switches are still slow, then you next step is too use relays, and have the switches only work the relays, instead of working the motors.

The other advantage is that with a relay you typically have a 30 or 40 amp contact, which is better than the 20 amp contacts in the S4 switches and the lame 10 amp contacts in the S5 switches.

Let me know if you need help with wiring the relays (if you go that route).

 

Awesome, I knew the S4 switches were the ones to have.

Alright, I'll get back to you guys once i've done that. I know my car had power windows installed by the previous owner, as mine's the equivelant of an American base. (note, mine's an S5).

I understand how the switch wiring/electrical system is linked up/wired, however I haven't had the time to look at the wiring diagrams for the window motors. Like I said, if it comes to adding a relay, I'll let you know. Thanks.

 

Alright, cleaned the passenger power window switch, it was totally black, made the window slightly faster, however it still wouldn't work going up. Somewhat tested the motor (got it to go down, and it pulled itself up under it's own steam), however my wires coming off of the cordless drill battery touched, shorting out the battery (either that or the battery just died).... I'm going to see what I can do to get another battery and confirm the engine is okay now.

Icemark, would you be able to post something up regarding the relay wiring?

 

Yes please Icemark, would like to see how its done. My windows are slow as well

 

here you go.


https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...22&postcount=8

 

Did he ever find out what the problem was after all?