Confirming Power Window Motor is Nearly Dead *Video*
#1
Epilepsy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: ..
Posts: 675
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Confirming Power Window Motor is Nearly Dead *Video*
Alright, so my power windows usually work, however my passenger motor is shot..I think...
So far, i've cleaned the driver's side switch (needs it again), lubed the tracks and the mechanical gear inside the window, and this made the window actually move under it's own power, albeit slowly.
So the problem now, is the motor moves decently down, however BARELY moves going up. Not only that, but the engine is starting to sound pretty tired. I've got a video showing you what's happening, and well, that'll explain it much better.
Video: *video is coming, youtube has been 'processing' for the past 2 hours...*
So, I just want you guys to confirm what I think; I need a new passenger window motor, right?
So far, i've cleaned the driver's side switch (needs it again), lubed the tracks and the mechanical gear inside the window, and this made the window actually move under it's own power, albeit slowly.
So the problem now, is the motor moves decently down, however BARELY moves going up. Not only that, but the engine is starting to sound pretty tired. I've got a video showing you what's happening, and well, that'll explain it much better.
Video: *video is coming, youtube has been 'processing' for the past 2 hours...*
So, I just want you guys to confirm what I think; I need a new passenger window motor, right?
#3
I knw wht u did last sumr
Join Date: May 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I dont know why the engine would sound tired but from what youre describing it sounds exactly like a failing window motor to me. This is a common problem. You can pick up a new motor for around $60-80.
#5
Epilepsy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: ..
Posts: 675
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I'm still waiting on youtube right now...
Thing is, the engine has a distinct sound to it, not the normal electric 'whirl', but almost a high pitched squeal.
arghx, it's not the battery. My driver's side window is about twice as fast as my passenger side window.
Thing is, the engine has a distinct sound to it, not the normal electric 'whirl', but almost a high pitched squeal.
arghx, it's not the battery. My driver's side window is about twice as fast as my passenger side window.
#6
Epilepsy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: ..
Posts: 675
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Video finally uploaded, here's what I'm talking about: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEvQ1erd2wU
#7
Marvelous Hedonist
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Old-Town BrightTown, CO
Posts: 761
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Video finally uploaded, here's what I'm talking about: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEvQ1erd2wU
Well. . . It sounds like the motor to me. I've had to work on every window related mechanism except the motor. . . So I'm not much help there. Good Luck.
Also, Icemark seems to have a good understanding of the FC electrical system. . . maybe he will chime in.
Trending Topics
#8
Rotary engine victory
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Newburgh, IN
Posts: 647
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i would have to say its the regulator not the motor by the looks of it. the way it moves down jerky and the will barely go up i would have to say regulator not motor. but to be safe get a motor/regulator assembly, its usually cheeper to get the set than just one or the other. and it makes it a lot easier to change.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rancho Cucamonga Ca,
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Before you get new regulators test your window switches, I think that is more than likely your problem. My car had the same issue multiple times over the last 7 years, it has always been the swiches, the S4 switches are horrible, but even the S5 switches like yours fail, slowing down is the #1 symptom from my experience. If they skip going up or down its your regulators.
#12
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
99% of the time slow motors are from a bad switch or dirty window tracks...not a bad motor.
Motors almost never fail (I have only seen one ever) and when they do they stop working... they don't just go slow.
But it is easy to check. Go to the motor, unplug it. Take two jumper wires to a 12volt makita or other cordless power tool to the motor leads. If the motor runs fine, then you know it is the switch or wiring or tracks. Without a cordless power tool battery (any cordless power tool between 9 volts and 16 volts will work), then you can also use some jumper cables and run right to the car's battery.
Motors almost never fail (I have only seen one ever) and when they do they stop working... they don't just go slow.
But it is easy to check. Go to the motor, unplug it. Take two jumper wires to a 12volt makita or other cordless power tool to the motor leads. If the motor runs fine, then you know it is the switch or wiring or tracks. Without a cordless power tool battery (any cordless power tool between 9 volts and 16 volts will work), then you can also use some jumper cables and run right to the car's battery.
#14
Epilepsy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: ..
Posts: 675
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
99% of the time slow motors are from a bad switch or dirty window tracks...not a bad motor.
Motors almost never fail (I have only seen one ever) and when they do they stop working... they don't just go slow.
But it is easy to check. Go to the motor, unplug it. Take two jumper wires to a 12volt makita or other cordless power tool to the motor leads. If the motor runs fine, then you know it is the switch or wiring or tracks. Without a cordless power tool battery (any cordless power tool between 9 volts and 16 volts will work), then you can also use some jumper cables and run right to the car's battery.
Motors almost never fail (I have only seen one ever) and when they do they stop working... they don't just go slow.
But it is easy to check. Go to the motor, unplug it. Take two jumper wires to a 12volt makita or other cordless power tool to the motor leads. If the motor runs fine, then you know it is the switch or wiring or tracks. Without a cordless power tool battery (any cordless power tool between 9 volts and 16 volts will work), then you can also use some jumper cables and run right to the car's battery.
I'm a little hesitant about the switches though. I've recently cleaned them, and I've got S4 switches in-place of the shitty S5 ones on top of that.
Anyways, I'll jumper the motor, and clean the switches...again.
Cheers.
#16
Epilepsy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: ..
Posts: 675
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#18
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
The S5 switches are weak slider switches, that the tabs break off internally and you can not rebuild them, and the contacts are only rated half of what the S4 switches can do.
#19
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Awesome, I never thought of jumpering the motor, I'll do that when I get home.
I'm a little hesitant about the switches though. I've recently cleaned them, and I've got S4 switches in-place of the shitty S5 ones on top of that.
Anyways, I'll jumper the motor, and clean the switches...again.
Cheers.
I'm a little hesitant about the switches though. I've recently cleaned them, and I've got S4 switches in-place of the shitty S5 ones on top of that.
Anyways, I'll jumper the motor, and clean the switches...again.
Cheers.
The other advantage is that with a relay you typically have a 30 or 40 amp contact, which is better than the 20 amp contacts in the S4 switches and the lame 10 amp contacts in the S5 switches.
Let me know if you need help with wiring the relays (if you go that route).
#20
Epilepsy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: ..
Posts: 675
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If jumpering the motor works, and the switches are still slow, then you next step is too use relays, and have the switches only work the relays, instead of working the motors.
The other advantage is that with a relay you typically have a 30 or 40 amp contact, which is better than the 20 amp contacts in the S4 switches and the lame 10 amp contacts in the S5 switches.
Let me know if you need help with wiring the relays (if you go that route).
The other advantage is that with a relay you typically have a 30 or 40 amp contact, which is better than the 20 amp contacts in the S4 switches and the lame 10 amp contacts in the S5 switches.
Let me know if you need help with wiring the relays (if you go that route).
I understand how the switch wiring/electrical system is linked up/wired, however I haven't had the time to look at the wiring diagrams for the window motors. Like I said, if it comes to adding a relay, I'll let you know. Thanks.
#21
Epilepsy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: ..
Posts: 675
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alright, cleaned the passenger power window switch, it was totally black, made the window slightly faster, however it still wouldn't work going up. Somewhat tested the motor (got it to go down, and it pulled itself up under it's own steam), however my wires coming off of the cordless drill battery touched, shorting out the battery (either that or the battery just died).... I'm going to see what I can do to get another battery and confirm the engine is okay now.
Icemark, would you be able to post something up regarding the relay wiring?
Icemark, would you be able to post something up regarding the relay wiring?