Compression Check?
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Compression Check?
I did a search but could not find the answer.
I have asked around and gotten a few different answers.
QUESTION: How do you do a compression test on our cars. Can you use a regular compression tester that you would use on a piston engine or no. I have heard both yes and no. I don't want to have to go to a dealer.
Thanks. Tim
I have asked around and gotten a few different answers.
QUESTION: How do you do a compression test on our cars. Can you use a regular compression tester that you would use on a piston engine or no. I have heard both yes and no. I don't want to have to go to a dealer.
Thanks. Tim
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Yes you can use a regual compression tester, but you need to hold the schrader valve open while doing it. Youll also need to remove the EGI fuse in the engine bay.
Then, when ready, hold the throttle fully open, making sure the motor is warned up. Your looking for 3 even bounces, atleast 90+ psi. Use the Trailing spark plug holes.
Itll also be next to impossible if no one is helping you.
Then, when ready, hold the throttle fully open, making sure the motor is warned up. Your looking for 3 even bounces, atleast 90+ psi. Use the Trailing spark plug holes.
Itll also be next to impossible if no one is helping you.
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yeah, have someone crank the engine while you watch the gauge. If it bounces too fast, you can video tape it and watch it in slow-mo.
1 low reading and 2 high readings =bad side seals
2 low readins and 1 high reading= bad apex seal
you will get three readings since there are 3 sides to a rotor. The reason you hold the valve open is cause on a piston engine, you do one piston at a time, and the check valve will not let the air escape so the gauge will hold a reading. You want the air to escape so the gauge can reset and read the next side of the rotor.
1 low reading and 2 high readings =bad side seals
2 low readins and 1 high reading= bad apex seal
you will get three readings since there are 3 sides to a rotor. The reason you hold the valve open is cause on a piston engine, you do one piston at a time, and the check valve will not let the air escape so the gauge will hold a reading. You want the air to escape so the gauge can reset and read the next side of the rotor.
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Yes you can use a regual compression tester, but you need to hold the schrader valve open while doing it. Youll also need to remove the EGI fuse in the engine bay.
Then, when ready, hold the throttle fully open, making sure the motor is warned up. Your looking for 3 even bounces, atleast 90+ psi. Use the Trailing spark plug holes.
Itll also be next to impossible if no one is helping you.
Then, when ready, hold the throttle fully open, making sure the motor is warned up. Your looking for 3 even bounces, atleast 90+ psi. Use the Trailing spark plug holes.
Itll also be next to impossible if no one is helping you.
1) What is the schrader valve?
2) Do I test the trailing spark plug holes 1 at a time?
Thanks. Tim
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whats with people suggesting the trailling plug holes?
personally i would use the lead holes.. the trailling holes are closed up about 75% tapered at the housing as where the lead holes are almost totaly untapered..
personally i would use the lead holes.. the trailling holes are closed up about 75% tapered at the housing as where the lead holes are almost totaly untapered..
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I'd imagine its a safeguard just in case the compression tester has a really long probe. You wouldnt want it taking out the apex seals
THe trailing one is alot longer, IIRC
THe trailing one is alot longer, IIRC
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Originally posted by Fingers
I'd imagine its a safeguard just in case the compression tester has a really long probe. You wouldnt want it taking out the apex seals
I'd imagine its a safeguard just in case the compression tester has a really long probe. You wouldnt want it taking out the apex seals
yeah depends on the tester.. if you do the ghetto style test, definately use the lead holes
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Its not a schrader valve, its a check valve. Schrader is a company that makes valves, just like N.O.S. is a company that produces the equipment to use nitrous oxide (chemical designator N2O) on vehicles.
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Does someone have a pic of the schrader/check valve or can someone point it out to me in a picture.
And also again, do i test the trailing holes 1 at a time?
Thanks.
And also again, do i test the trailing holes 1 at a time?
Thanks.
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If you got a basic compression testor, its the only valve on there. If you go to check compression, and the gauge still shows a reading after you stop cranking the motor, then the valve is holding in the air. Open it, then do the test again.
Each rotor housing has 2 spark plugs. Remove 1 plug and put the tester in that hole. leave the other plugged in. Either one, leading or trailing. The tester shouldn't thread in any further than a spark plug does, but if it does, use the trailing plug hole (upper of the 2 spark plugs). Other than that, use either one you want. Hell, do it once in each hole and see if one reads different. Make sure you pull the EGI relay from the fuse box under the hood so it doesn't inject gas, and you'll want to disable the spark too.
Each rotor housing has 2 spark plugs. Remove 1 plug and put the tester in that hole. leave the other plugged in. Either one, leading or trailing. The tester shouldn't thread in any further than a spark plug does, but if it does, use the trailing plug hole (upper of the 2 spark plugs). Other than that, use either one you want. Hell, do it once in each hole and see if one reads different. Make sure you pull the EGI relay from the fuse box under the hood so it doesn't inject gas, and you'll want to disable the spark too.
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