GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

I've been searching the forum for quite a while, and can't seem to find a easy answer.
This is a hard problem that has possibly more than one thing wrong. If you can stand to read this long *** question-

I own a first gen , but recently put in a Turbo II motor.

here is the specs-

-89-91 motor, ported and rebuilt with 85 psi oil reg, solid corner seals, better bearings, 93 stationarys, stock apex seals
-89-91 stock brand new factory mazda turbo
-rebuilt stock 550cc injectors
-walbro fuel pump
-full 3" exhaust from turbo back
-stock TID with a foam filter
-large front mount intercooler
-Blitz blow-off valve
-factory ecu that was re-mapped by Jet, fuel cut raised, and fuel and timming maps re-tuned for more boost
-HKS FCD, not yet installed

I have removed the following from the stock setup;
-OMP removed and relocated on a mount, still plugged in
- removed entire air control valve(block off plate)
-removed bac valve(block off plate)
-removed AWS soleniod

I took out the oil injectors and then sealed the holes with the right srcews coated with gasket sealer. And all vaccum lines not in use have rubber plugs on them

As for the wiring I'm using 5 relays with 30 amp ratings to turn on the ecu, coils, and injectors.

I have went through and grounded everywhere with extra grounds, except the ecu and pressure sensor.

added a 2 gauge wire from Alt. to battery with 100 amp circuit breaker.

The spark plugs, wires, oxygen sensor are all new.

the intake temp sensor is plugged in but not in the intake system. Due to lack of time

Here is the first problem;

If I start the car when it is cold, it runs super slopy rich, with a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust ( running pre-mix also). If I unplug the oil metering pumps position senor (three wire plug) and plug in one from a old one (which is just the position by itself and fully extended) I can start the car and it wont run rich, the stepping motor in the OMP moves all the way until it stops, then while the car is running I can plug in the OMP sensor and it will continue to run fine for hours on end. It will restart if the car is still warm and run. If it is cold I have to go through the whole thing again.

second problem;

I can only give the car partial throttle, maybe quarter throttl. Any more it will cut out . It is still enough that most of the time I can get just a little boost, 2 psi max. Any more than that it will die. I can rev all the way to at least 6000 rpm, but still a only a little throttle.
This feels kinda like limp home mode, but it will run forever, I have 1080 miles on the engine now, so just started a day ago to try and get boost, but not real luck.

Now I've tested the OMP with a Ohm meter and it is to the factory workshop manal specs, and the ecu is at the right voltages.
I put the OMP on a second gen and it ran perfectly with it, at full throttle
I've checked for vaccum leaks and have 0 for sure ( my dad is a mechanic and has a expensive smoke machine that attaches to the brake booster line and checks for leaks.
My injectors are all hooked up, and plugged in
fuel filters are all new and have tried two brands, same result.
I've ran it without the filter and it got better, but still can only get partial throttle.
It feels to me like the secondary injectors arent working but I dont know why if they arent.
I cant do the clicking test by removing the line to the pressure sensor because the exhaust is to loud for me to hear if the secondary are clicking at 4000 rpms.
I've tried two computers, both do the exact same thing.
The plugs and oxygen sensor may be fooled, from the times it runs rich, since the pre-mix is in the fuel. I havent tried new of these items yet.
I'm getting full ignition from both trailing and leading.
and the timming is spot on.

Thanks to any ideas, ahead of time

SureShot

As you know the S5 ECU thinks the OMP is essential.
Without a working OMP plugged in (not necessarily attached to the motor) you are stuck in limp mode.

Plan B - a Microtech or some other freestanding ECU.

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

The OMP is perfect working order, and is still plugged in
I'm definitly going stand alone next summer, but was hoping to actually fix the problem with this setup before winter hits.

## As a update, today I unplugged the AFM and the car still ran exactly the same! With the AFM plugged in I can push the plunger all the way in and there is no change in engine speed or A/F whatsoever.
I pulled it off and checked Ohms with a voltmeter as per the factory workshop manual, and two connacts are almost a dead short, and the thermosensor is WAY off. So I think found the problem.
Going tomorrow to pick up a used one, and see if the big problem is solved.
I'll keep this updated ASAP to maybe help others with a similar problem.

RETed

I would highly suggest trying to pull the error codes off the ECU.&nbsp It sounds like the ECU is barfing at something missing of bad.

-Ted

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

Put on a non-turbo AFM to just see if it would run better down low, it runs perfect now, very smooth accel, and dosent do the sloppy rich crap at cold startup. It does still run a little rich and wont let me run very much boost with out cutting out, I think its because of the softer spring bottoming out early. Getting a T2 AFM on monday, and I'll see if that is the final problem so I can unlesh all the HP this monster motor can produce