stacher

I have a few questions. I did search but couldn't find a complete answer. I will appreciate any corrections or input in accomplishing the complete removal of the "rats nest". I know a lot of people would like to know about getting rid of the solenoids.

My 5 & 6 port sleve have been removed as well as the ACV....so all vacuum lines to the BROWN solenoid (6PI) can be removed.

My VDI is wired open...so all vacuum lines to the WHITE solenoid (VDI) can be removed.

My air pump has been removed as well as my catalitic converter. The injector bleeders have been cap off.

Can I remove the BAC?

Can I remove the Orange solenoid by hooking up the FPR to a vacuum in the intake manifold?

What needs to be done the get rid of the GRAY (switch) and BLUE (relief) solenoids.

What do I do with the oil neck breather? Place a breather filter?

What about the oil injector hoses? Cap them?

If I can accomplish this...the only thing I would need is to run the fuel lines, connect the FPR to the intake manifold, keep the pressure sensor vacuum.

Am I correct?

Thanks

NZConvertible

Why? These things are there to improve engine performance.
Why? Improving fuel atomisation has numerous benefits.
Only if you want to loose idle speed control.
Yes, this will eliminate the hot-start assist system.
Nothing, they operated valves in the AVC.
As a minimum.
Unless you're removing the OMP and using premix instead, they must stay.

stacher

NZ...... You gave me all the answers. I thank you. The engine is ported and bigger secondary and fuel pump have been added as well as an RB header.

The bleeders were conected to the "rats nest".

I am planning on going premix as I already had problems with the OMP. So the OMP will be connected but not functional.

I think your answers will help everyone else trying/planning on removing the 'rats nest".

Thanks again

NZConvertible

You mean bigger secondary injectors? They're a waste of time on an NA, as you'll never reach the limit of the stock injectors with just a street port, plus unless you have a fuel controller to tune them properly you'll run very rich and have noticable loss of power over 3800rpm as a result.
You can reconnect the injector bleeds (and anything else really) with rubber vac line.

stacher

NZ... If I am trying to remove the entire "rats nest", what do you suggest doing with the injector bleed off? Leave them uncapped or capped?

Once the "rats nest" is removed....what should I do withe the solenoid plug ins? Leave them unplugged and hanging or hot wire them for continuity?

Reference the secondary injectors, I think you are right as I was told to try it but if I feel the cat "flat linning" (slow reving to 8K) then to go ahead and put the 460cc back. Since the secondaries are so easy to change (compare to the primaries) I though I would give it a shot. Perhap I won't now that you have verified it.

Seems like you are very experienced on this. I appreciate your help. Keep the advice comming.

Steve

imloggedin

im not exactly sure.. but i saw a guy on the forum here lately take them out and put a bolt where they went (the oil injectors). also, when you take the bac valve out, you will still have idle control on the TB, adjusting the throttle cable. you should anyway.

Multiplex

Stacher,

Any chance you can post pics of what you are doing? I've been looking for awhile for good info on removing rats nest (actually, not putting it back on when I am putting everything back in my car) on N/As, all writeups concentrate on turbos.

stacher

Multiplex,

I am taking my engine out today..so it is all in pieces. However I have pictures and I will try to post them as I can.

andrew lohaus

run the injector bleed sockets all together then up to one of the nipples on the back of the tb. and realy, WTF did you wire open the vdi? you will have **** for powere below 5k, especialy with the aux ports wired. i would say that the mods you have mentioned will make your car significantly slower than it would be if left stock. again, i ask why?

andrew lohaus

if you have pulled the a/c and the power steering you'll be fine without the bac, otherwise leave it on.

NZConvertible

Reconnect them like I said before. Definitely don't leave them uncapped.
Unless you get an error light, leave them unplugged. If you do, do not "hot wire" them with the piece if wire. If you're lucky you'll only blow the fuse; if you're unlucky you'll fry the ECU. You need to replace the solenoid with a resistor of the same resistance as the solenoid. Or you could simply leave the solenoid plugged in.
You'll feel it well before then. From 3800rpm onwards you'll be running much richer than stock, and stock mixtures are already very rich. Trust me, plenty of others have made this mistake before and posted about it.