88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

im lookin at the bushing set from victoria british for 150 or somethin..im just wondering how long does it usually take to do this and if their are any tricks/tips to do make it easy... i heard to burn them out with a torch saves time???
what kinda process is this?

vaughnc

The DTSS bushing is not sold separately (rear A arms). Either buys a complete DTSS hub (expensive) or press in a solid DTSS eliminator bushing. Mazdatrix sells that.

Also for 89-91 RX-7s, replace the stock pillowball style swaybar end links with ones from Racing Beat. Replace the subframe end links (aka control links which connects rear A arm with subframe) with stock Mazda ones or AWR Racing solid ones. For 86-88, the swaybar end links have replaceable bushings. You still need to replace the pillowball style subframe end links with stock new or AWR ones.

If the stock lateral link (subframe to body) is worn, replace that with the Racing Beat adjustable one.

Usually the front A arm main bushing isn't bad. I burned mine off as I wanted all new rubber on the car. The rest of the bushings press out pretty easily. The solid pillow ball in the rear A arm doesn't usually go bad, but it presses in/out if you just want to replace it.

If you're confused on any of this, download the Factory Service Manual and/or the parts manual and look.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/

Also don't forget to check all of your ball joints and bearings for excessive play. Replace the balljoint boots (front & subframe ones) with some polyurethane boots (repack the joints & bearings with fresh greese). Repack the strut top bearings with fresh greese as well.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

thanks for the help..ill def. take this into consideration...
im lookin to see how bad of a job this is...

jgrts20

I bought the hyper master kit in red, Ive been read my haynes manual hopefully it wont be that bad of a job.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

when are you doing it?? will ya let me know how it is??

jgrts20

The car away in storage til spring. I am dropping my car, putting my bodykit on, and replacing the bushing then. If you dont get it done by then I will let you know how long it will take for the bushing. peace!!

chris

Trav

I did the ES (black) kit on my vert last month. (plus the DTSS elim).
If this is your daily driver, I'd probably recommend just going to a few shops for estimates and having it done. If it's not your DD and/or you're okay w/ your car being out of commission for a period of time, then it's definitely doable. I borrowed a couple of different pulley pullers when I did mine -- I was able to use those in various configurations to either pull or push the old bushings out and back in. It wasn't easy -- in fact it's a pain, but if you're patient and you want to do it, it's doable. The hardest were the rear control arm bushings IMO because you have to push them back in, and then you have to push a metal sleeve (insert) into the middle as well. I had some difficulty pushing that metal sleeve in while trying to keep the bushings from pushing themselves back out. In other words, it's a freaking tight fit.

Impact gun is helpful for turning the screw on the puller. Vice might also be helpful for some of the easier bushings to push in (or to keep them from popping out). I did all of mine over the course of several days -- I honestly didn't keep track, but I'd say 8-16 hours depending on your luck and trial-and-error. I never had to burn anything out -- I pushed everything out -- based on what I saw people were burning out, I honestly don't know how that would be helpful because you still need to press the metal sleeve out.

Short answer -- it's doable w/ loaner tools, impact gun, vice, and some large sized sockets if you're willing to spend the time/effort to do it and bloody some knuckles in the process. If you don't want your car to be down for very long (and can afford it), I'd probably just go have it done. It wasn't one of those 'redeeming' projects for me -- it was one of those, "man that sucked, I saved some cash, but I don't want to do that again projects".

HTH

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

thanks... now i see what im up against... ill prob. do it because it needs it and i like a challenge ...
thanks again..

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Thats the spirit!

NOPR

I just did my bushings. I good press is a necessity unless you wanna spend a million years on it. The hardest bushings are the rear bushings on the front control arms. You have to cut through rubber down to the metal, then cut metal off with a cutting wheel and pry the whole thing off. Major PITA. after that, pressing the new ones in is easy. Took me 2 nights to get it all done but that doesnt include removing and replacing the suspension.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

well im doing shocks at the same time so no biggie on suspension part... thanks for the input though... next question.. where to get a good set?? is victoria british a good deal??

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I just grabbed the Energy Suspension kit myself but I'm planning on doing it at my dad's darage over a few different days (I'm just gonna do one wheel at a time and drive it home and back.)

Anyone ever try one of these kits?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38145

Trav

Summit for the ES kit. I bought mine from Jegs -- they didn't keep it in stock, so had to order it for me -- but I had a gift certificate that I had to use. I'd probably go Summit as they had it in stock last I checked.

And as far as cutting that rear bushing off the front, I did the first one the hard way also, but if you get a pulley puller of the right length and such, you should be able to just pull the whole bushing off in one piece (I think )

SexInDaRex

go to nopionline and get the ES kits. I paid $60 plus shipping about a year ago, now I think they may cost more.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

What's the difference between those and the Energy Suspension kits?

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...18101&cat=1231

I've been swaying towards the Energy kit over the eBay specials and such because I can get the lube and get it in black (red is ok, but black would fit in better) + shipping for $119.

NOPI is selling the ES kits for $79 right now, but they look cheaper then the Energy kits, but I'm not sure if that would effect their performance.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

this price isnt bad at all... victoria wants $160 without shipping.
wonder what the dif. is between this and nopi??

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

http://www.nopionline.com/nopistore/...A%20RX7%201988
prothane from nopi $77 bucks...
is prothane any good??

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

There's real limited resources out there for comparing the two, but from what I've read either set will do the trick. There seems to be alot of people that have purchased both brands and are happy with them.

The biggest complaint has been that they will squeek sooner or later but using the proper lube is supposed to help alleviate this a little. The second biggest complaint was that the Prothanes aren't available in black.

I've read in a few places (including here) that Energy Suspension used to make graphite impregnated (~~o) bushings that were supposed to prevent the squeeking, and I found a set for $119 at: http://www.performancesuspension.com/HyperCars.htm

If you follow the instructions at the top of the page you get free shipping.

SexInDaRex

i have used them for a while no squeaking here...I still have to put the fronts on I also installed DTSS eliminators as well as the subframe delrin mounts.