Other than the problems common to all 2nd Gens (wiper switch, clock, etc.), what specific issues should I look out for when buying an 89-91 Convertible?

I did a SEARCH, but mostly found stuff regarding rips in the top. The 'vert I'm looking at just had a new top installed.

Is the top manual or automatic? Any other 'vert-specific things I should know about or expect to see?

Thanks!

 

The 'verts came with a electric top. It is operated by a button above the wiper switch (on the 88 and 89) or by a switch in the center consol (90-92).

Common problems are pretty much the same as any other FC with the exception of the top ripping which you already found. A good vinyl protectant should be used everytime it is washed to help prevent that.

Other vert specific issues are mostly related to worn door or damaged roof seals. All of which can still be found and replaced with new (british victoria has a ton of 'vert body stuff like seals).

The 90-91 'verts will need the airbag replaced soon if not already. Typical air bag life is about 12-15 years before they should be replaced (after that time the bag may not contain all the propellant upon deployment-leading to burns on the face and upper body).

The 90-91 Airbag equipped 'verts also tend to be by far the heaviest RX-7 ever built.

Avoid auto tranny versions as they are the slowest RX-7 ever built as well.

The 88 'vert was the lightest of the convertibles and many claim the best handling as the later 'verts had a softer more compliant suspension. If you prefer the way a NA miata (first gen) handles, then you will want to find an 88, but the 89 is a decent second choice if you update the struts.

 

Thanks, Icemark!

I can always depend on you replying to all of my 2nd gen questions.

The tip on the airbag replacement is appreciated... I didn't think about airbags having a shelf life. Although, I have heard of some early generation airbags causing burns/injuries upon deployment.

The 'vert I'm looking at is a '91, but it's a 5 spd. The seller recently had a 400W 6 speaker CD system installed, as well as the new top. Asking price is about $100 over Edmunds TMV.

The only real concern I have is that it has 136K miles w/o a rebuild yet, although regular maintenance has been performed (need to verify w/ receipts though). My wallet isn't looking forward to another engine rebuild since I just had the TII done last month!

 

another prob usually is the window regulators going bad..what happens is they are moving the window with a cable that is the same as you would find on a bicycle brake cable..these cables break and the window wont go up and down..the motor usually never dies so most people spend 90+ bucks on a new regulator..which can be fixed for about 10 bucks..and an hour of your time. i have a write up on this..but basically you will remove the old window regulator...take it apart to reveal the cables and the gears that the cables are fastened to..you save the old broken cable..for measurement purposes..go to wal-mart and buy new bicycle cables..measure them to fit the old ones..then install a certain way..which involves buying some small ferrules to attach the cables because the cables will be about 2 or so feet too long..meaning you will need to cut them..leaving a cable with no butt stop on the end of it...

this probly makes no sense right now but when you need to fix it let me know and ill email you the complet write up. only other prob you may run into is that you may be leaving your t2 in the garage more often than you like..or you may start to want to put your t2 engine in the vert..cuz its soo much better riding around with the top down..but soo much slower without t2 engine..lol

the regulators for power windows on a coupe are completely different than those on the vert. so theres no swapping.

 

if it was well maintained i would not worrie about getting a new engine, mine had 133k when i bought it over a year ago, i now have 172k on the engine and it still runs good, minus the the shitty idle when it is warming up, becides that it idles smooth(once warmed up), hits redline daily with out a problem and travels 120 miles a day 5 days a week trouble free (engine wise anyway, can't say much for some other issues it has every now and then)


-Shawn <------- top is torn and leaks rrrgggggg..........

 

All of the problems I have had with mine have to do with the engine. The rest of the car is awesome, I gotta ditch that rotary soon.... BTW, with proper attention to weight removal, my car is now UNDER 2900 pounds, so don't let people tell you the car can't be lightened up and made a lot faster. Without all that weight, the suspension is SUPER stiff and this car really handles. Low profile tires were the icing on the cake....

 

I too would not be the least bit concerned for a N/A motor until it hits around 175-200K miles if the engine has been maintained.

Its the ones that sit in peoples garages until a sunny day and only have 50K miles on them that I would be more concerned with.

But either way a smog test and compression check will tell you exactly how the motor is running.

 

Wow, thats impressive. What exactly did you remove to get your vert that light? If you don't mind sharing, I'd love to get some weight out of mine. If you don't want to share with everyone, can you pm me the info? Thanks in advance...

 

Double Post

 

Good Stuff, guys! Thanks for all the info on the S5 convertibles.

Inspection/compression check is a must... I was looking to buy a 3rd Gen and the inspection revealed good compression and boost pattern (10-8-10 psi), however, a bunch of suspension parts were worn out and there was a leak at the motor mounts, all of which would have cost about $3500+ in parts/labor.

Luckily, the Seller agreed to pay for the inspection prior to!

Re: Smog Checks, in CA the Seller needs to provide a Smog Certificate no older than 60 days, right?

 

Main problem:
too much fun to drive=too many miles on car

If you only want to get there, take the bus.

 

My 88 has been awesome- 128000 on the odo, and the only problem is my wiper switch. Everything else is flawless. I'm just too lazy to mess with the switch. I will start saving for a rebuild & streetport, but don't anticipate having to do this for another 72000 miles.

Downwind- too true.

 

I have removed everything that does not make the car go, stop, or look good. The list is huge. My car even has no wipers or wiper motor, but I am extreme! I never drive the car in the rain, so there are a lot of things I can do that most people cannot. My car is now a full-time roadster, and there is nothing under the hood that is not absolutely necessary. The ONLY weight I added were those awesome wheels, check the link below to see my HotRod. This car will even run high 14's when the rotary feels like going round and round. This is with stock gearing, which for some reason is very high in my car. It will weigh under 3000 with the Z06 V-8 and T56 6 speed going in it this winter/next spring. 355 HP and 400 ft-lbs ought to make this car a true supercar and a real giant killer....

 

BTW, I only paid $1500 for the car, and I have done nothing cosmetically except the aforementioned wheels. It had a blown engine, but I put the one in that I had from an autocross car that I wrecked big time. Now that engine is getting ready to take a long walk off a short asteroid, it only has 23K on it, mostly at 6K RPM plus. I hope it can make it another six months!

 

I have a convertible in the west, 88, white. It's for sale. e-mail me at nickbgoofy2@aol.com if you are interested. 1200.

 

I will tell you guys that my first vert was a 1991 inmaculated white witht he black top and interior and compared with the 1988 that I have presently, for some reason I like the way of how this 1988 drive big time.
Carlos

 

I had the problem with a knocking in the rear suspention... first thing that went wrong after i bought it (since then its been fine ) but stupidly i took it to the dealership, who took like two weeks, to finaly fix it... first they fixed the wrong thing and tried to charge me for that and then finaly got it right... toe connector arms or something... small bars with two bushing holes on each end... the verts are heavier and put more strain on them.

so when they go bad they cause a clunking in the rear of the car whenever you go over bumps