Ok heres what we got,
car was just purchased , we have not done any mod to it from what it has.

got it cheap what do you expect.

Its an 83 GSL with a 88 4 port 13b Swap in it.

The car will start fine hot no problem but when its cold it will not start.

It cranks nothing happens, dosent seem flooded, spark is good, It will compression start when cold, Thought it might be a vac leak, went though and found no vac leaks.

When the car is running it idles at 1500RPM with the idle screw on the throttle body all the way in, If we bring it back out it goes even higher.


17k Miles on rebuild, 3mm seals ,ngk plugs, s5 rotors.

Here are pics of the engine and just ******* around tonight.

 

Hey mate,
I'm having the same issue, again I have no vac leaks I can see, the car is running very rich (not sure if yours is doing the same) but I am still suspecting TPS, have checked it a couple of times but I've been told to measure it in volts instead of ohms. Check yours via the FSM see if it's in spec (1V or 1kohms is what you're looking for). If you work it out and it's not the TPS let me know - I'm stumped with mine. I adjusted the TPS and it seemed to make it worse it now bounces between 12-1400RPM after I give it a squirt and let off the accelerator.

Anywho - Try testing the TPS, also check thermowax see if it's disengaging when warm. Also do a compression check - may be causing the cold start problems. Also again, TPS/Thermowax could be causing the same.

 

Cool We'll check into that in the morning 3am here tired as hell

if anybody else has some ideas let me know thanks

-Taylor

 

OK heres an update as of this morning.

We went to try and cold start it today, it was not starting, Pulled the leading spark plugs and there were no fuel on them, but we have good spark.

still idles really high, You can smell fuel when trying to crank it, Injection issue? Fuel Pump issue? Thanks for the help.....

 

when you say you adjusted the idle screw- what screw are you talking about?

point to it on your picture.

 

If it starts hot but not cold the water thermo sensor on the back of the water pump housing is disconnected or has an open circuit. The stock ECU uses this for determining the amount of fuel during START. Start being when you crank the engine over and it starts, but START is not effective after 500rpms, whereupon the afm now delivers fuel.
That's on a stock ECU.

The reason it would start HOT, is because the ECU defaults the sensor input to 176* if it's disconnected.

 

Here is the screw, The car idles really high at 1500 RPM even with the screw all the way in. Could it be the timing, I know when i got the timming fixed on my FC my car idled lower.

 

Possibly timing. Somewhere around 1100 rpm the ECU jacks the timing up and when that happens the revs also go up a couple of hundred.

Try a timing light and make sure the initial set coupler is jumpered.

Then again it could be a air leak or a vacuum hose on the wrong nipple or????

You've three nipples on the front of the dynamic chamber and two I know of on the left rear of the dynamic chamber. Make sure they are on and in the right spots.

Or try this on the timing. Get the engine hot, then rotate the CAS counter clockwise slowly til the rpms are under 1000 rpm or LESS. Then take a timing light to it and see what you can see. If it's the stock pulley you should be able to tell if its on the spot or not.

Orrrrrr, baring that, get in the car and put the thing in gear and brake on. Then let out slowly on the clutch til the engine starts to bogg below 900 rpm and at the same time have your buddy check the timing with the light. Little risky for the guy checking the timing. I've never done that myself.; Just seems a fun thing to do.

 

Alright We will check it out, Thanks a lot for the good info Hailers your smart with this stuff