I've gone outside and stared at my engine bay several times and have come up with nothing particularly exciting. I want/need to get my air filter out of the engine bay to escape the ridiculous heat buildup under the hood (measured up to 180 degrees right next to the filter even with a nearly-sealed air box. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can route some piping (3" outer diameter, semi-flexible rubber) in order to get the filter out of the engine bay?

I've searched and read every thread related to "cold air intakes."
I know many have relocated the winshield washer water bottle from under the passenger-side headlight and enlarged that hole; however, I have a water injection kit that currently uses that bottle, and I'm trying to avoid moving that.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

The problem is that there is little space to run a 3" tube anywhere without cutting or removing pieces. One avenue that you could explore is to run a tube straight down against the frame rail (Between the engine and chassis) and point the opening into the flowing air under the car. You may need to use oval piping or something similar to truely get enough air.

Other than that, you'll be hard pressed to fasion something that gets enough air to the filter without cutting the car. I had the same issue and ended up cutting - but you've read my thread already I'm sure!

 

Sure did. Nice setup.

 

Get a cold start bottle (its moulded to fit back by the cruise control actuator and wiper motor) and use that for feeding the water injection.

Then you could remove the wiper washer tank if you were so inclined.

The other option would be to get a headlight washer tank from a 10thAE and use it for wipers or the water injection, as it fits just like the windshield washer tank, but on the drivers side instead.

Or the third option is to get a rad over flow tank from a 86 as they mount on the drivers shock tower, and use it for your water injection, again allowing you to remove the windsheild washer tank.

Of course those last two won't work if you have a FMIC and a Turbo.

 

Ok. I don't have my car nearby, so I can't go look. Is there any space at all between the radiator and the car (frame?)?

 

no

 

Only if you fab up brakets to tilt the bottom of the rad towards the engine. Then you will need an e-fan. It's a lot of time and money to spend - and all it will do is render the engine cooling less efficiant. Not worth it to save cutting a small hole.

I am also a firm believer that removing the FTP's and/or installing one of those headlight couver vents is basically useless.

 

I already have an E-fan that works well (not sure which one). I'll look to see how difficult it would be to move the radiator tonight.

I definitely think those headlight covers are useless. The FTP removal is probably slightly more beneficial, although, I imagine, hacking of the car is still required to get any benefit from it.

 

I did a couple very simple things that togeather were very effective. Its a very ugly looking setup but works well. The car is my N/A track car though and does not have a hot turbo to deal with. I am runing a APEXi cone filter.

1. I removed both FTP lenses. This more effectively pressurizes the front plenum.
2. I cut out the weather striping from the underside of the hood just to the drivers side of the passenger side headlight to allow air up fromt he front plenum via the little space just to the side of the headlight. NOT the weather striping from directly behind the headlight cover but just off to the side of it.
3. Left the stock intake pipe on (the one that runs over the fan shroud). But rotated the little rubber boot 180°.
4. Used foil tape and cut up a foil insulated windshield shade into a heat shield. (very ghetto but effective) if i had more patience or time to waste on it I would have used sheet aluminum. But hey this is just my track car. Form over function.

Now, before I get flamed. I KNOW removing the FTP lenses dosnt dirrectly comunicate air into the fitler area. BUT, it does pressurize the plenum with ambient air ALOT more above the little plastic shrouds. Then cutting the weather stripping to alow air over the core support supplies some of that pressurized air to the stock airbox area. You will need to have your brake ducting and belly pan plus all the associated plastic shrouds in place to have this be at all effective.

Total cost:
10$ for the windshield shade (i already had one i didnt use anymore)
2-3$ fpr the foil tape.

I'll take some pics tonight as long as people dont laugh.

It DOES work. The whole area forward of the heat shield is cool to the touch after a 20 min track session in 90° F air. Though it dosn't help much idleing at a stop. The heat sheild will hold back some of the heat by itself if built right. (again my isnt great and could be alot better).

 

is there any pics of any that could help?

 

Update:

Well, after a few hours, I figured out a solution and it's running well so far. It didn't turn out exactly as I had envisioned; however, things are very tight, so it will have to do. I tried to take pictures last night, but, of course, the batteries died after the first picture. I'll take a few pictures tonight.