2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

coil problems

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Old Dec 23, 2002 | 01:22 PM
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From: montgomery
coil problems

could the coils cause a short. have 13 at the battery and only 8 at the ignition switch. new starter,battery,ignition switch,altenater,neg.wire from the battery.
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Old Dec 23, 2002 | 01:29 PM
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Whatca got at the black/yellow wire at the small, two socket, white plug at the LEAD coil assy?

What wire at the ignition switch?

Is this while cranking the engine or just with the key to ON?
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Old Dec 26, 2002 | 09:36 AM
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From: montgomery
ok started with checking the main fuses. found the short in the 60 or btn fuse. could not figure out what that suppled power to, or what that btn stood for. will check the coil today and get back with you. the main power coming into the ignition switch only 8 volts.just with the key in the on position. if you try and crack the car it turns but very slow like not enough power.
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Old Dec 26, 2002 | 11:40 AM
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Something is screwy here. IF you have 12v at the battery you should have 12v at the ignition switch. The place at the ignition you should be looking is about 12 inches below the ignition switch. Its a two wire connector, one wire black/white and the other pure black. Pull it apart. Black wire should be battery voltage. If it is not battery voltage...........go to the engine bay. Four to six inches below the rectangular fuse box is a single connector. Black. Pull it apart and see if its corroded then reattach. Thats the only connector b/t the fuse and the connector at the ignition.

Frankly, it sounds like a bad battery, bad starter, bad connections at the starter, bad battery connections, bad ground wire from the battery to the chassis, or bad ground wire from the chassis to the long bolt that holds the starter on to the transmission. One of the above.

Duh. I know not what the BTN does in life. It goes to the ECU, but the car will run without it. Now THATS interesting. A 12v source to the ECU that appears to do nothing. Not emissions. I checked the 12v at the solenoids. Not starting, car starts without it.

JPG of the starting system is attached. Most likely your starting problem is due to the slow turnover of the starter. I can't tell you what is causing that from here. Also the car might be flooded, but the starter needs fixing first, whatever the reason is.

Sorry about no jpg. This site is almost impossible to attach a wiring diagram to. Maybe later.
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Old Dec 26, 2002 | 11:53 AM
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Wait a minute here. Its not April first yet(April Fool's Day). I see on a similar post by you, near this post today, where you have had this starting problem since I believe July??????????????????????????
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Old Dec 26, 2002 | 02:30 PM
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From: montgomery
two different problems. one problem is hit the key and you hear click. now this problem a cant even get the car running. its got a bad short. somewere? i think? i have no idea about electicity.
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Old Dec 26, 2002 | 02:40 PM
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Get under the car with the car in neutral. Get a heavy piece of wire or a screwdrive and make a connection b/t the small blade connector on the starter(take the wire off and set it to the side)and the large post on the starter. The starter will spin and turn the engine. If not, then check your battery connectors and the ground on the starter bolt(outboard one).

If when you jump b/t the small and large connector and the starter turns........most likely the starter solenoid is bad or indifferent. Get another starter. With the exception of: if the battery connections and the ground connection on the large bolt on the starter are not good.

ABout the above paragraph........not necessasarily the solenoid. I found one of the brush wires broken intwo on one of my starters. SAme fix. New starter.

A short term fix sometimes is to carry a hammer. Reach under the car and whack the starter a couple of times then try again. No start. Hammer again. Like I said. Short term fix til it gets FIXED.

Last edited by HAILERS; Dec 26, 2002 at 02:49 PM.
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Old Dec 26, 2002 | 02:44 PM
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Aw heck. Not as above. If you only have 8 volts at the ignition, and 13 at the battery.......check your battery, battery posts, ground wire to the starter, but mostly the battery post and connections. I have battery voltage at my ignition, not some big voltage drop like you have.

One of these post ought to do it.

EDIT: Click, click probably because there is not enough juice to turn the starter, just enough to click the starter solenoid.

Last edited by HAILERS; Dec 26, 2002 at 02:47 PM.
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Old Dec 26, 2002 | 03:08 PM
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From: montgomery
got under car and jumped it,it turned over but very slow, has new battery,starter,ground wire to trans.,ignition switch,altinator,all new fuseable links. there is 13 volts after main fuses under hood. what do you mean? what should i check about the post? so in the haynes manual it says to remove fuses till you no longer have a short. i did and it was the btn fuse that showed a short. so now here we are.and as far as the click, it would crank no problem sometimes but sometimes it would just click.
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Old Dec 26, 2002 | 06:23 PM
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HAILERS
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Check the battery posts???? I meant make sure they are clean and the connector clamped on good.

If all is as you describe, about the wires to the starter........then the starter is toast. You said you jumpered it at the starter from the little post to the big positive connection on the starter and its cranking slow. Can't help but say its the starter itself.

The juice is carried to the starter by the big cable on the starter solenoiod, and the ground is by the big wire connected to the long outboard bolt that holds the starter on. If both are good....its the starter thats bad. By jumpering the connection at the starter solenoid, you eliminated any possibility of it being the ignition sw etc.

Classic sound of a bad starter.
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Old Dec 27, 2002 | 11:22 AM
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From: montgomery
will take it to autozone and get them to test it.

thanks


bryant
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