jm526

iTrader: (2)

I've been chasing gremlins on this thing for the past month now. But I'm not giving up till it blows or until i can confirm my say it time.

I checked my codes and Code 20 and Code 26 came up.

Not loosing any coolant.Smoke doesn't smell sweet either.Oil looks good and I'm not loosing any oil.Gas...well it chugs gas very fast.
I don't recall the weight of oil,so I really can't say.

The codes say OMP,but wouldn't it usually go in limp mode? The car runs and drives fine but with this huge smoke cloud.

I know
Blue smoke is Blue,Coolant is white,sweet smell,fuel is black.
But as you can see in the kids,its clearly WHITE.
Now would my OMP engine codes have something to do what this? I say Yes but I wanted to get a different opinion on this.

Thanks TIA



Thanks

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

It COULD be injecting more oil than it's needed since OMP is defective. What you COULD do is try unplug it and run some 2 stroke in there.
If unplugged, it will go limp mode ( can't rev past 4k rpm.).
You can't totally disable the OMP. Only way is to either block it off and zip tie to the side OR jumper it.

It will take some time for oil to burn off so don't expect to completely stop smoking. Drive around the block (but don't rev past 4k rpm)

See if that helps.

jm526

iTrader: (2)

I thought that was just for a S4 model? I have an S5. I'll will try that tho. Thanks

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

No. S4 has mechanical OMP so we don't need to worry about ECU going limp mode.
Just remove the rod.
S5 are electrical controlled by ECU so you cannot unplug it .
Any rotary can run premix. Check how much gas you have and pour some 2 stroke.
Safe is 1 oz per gal. but you can do less somewhat if you don't run it hard.
In your case I'd use about .5 oz for now until you figure what's wrong.

jm526

iTrader: (2)

OK so just unplug it. Put .5 oz of 2 cycle oil and drive it around for a while while not passing over 3.5K rpm?

I hardly have any fuel in the system.so I should run .5oz of 2 cycle/gallon of fuel?

Thanks

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

Yes. If not sure exactly how much fuel in tank, go 1 oz p/gal. Won't hurt.

jm526

iTrader: (2)

Alrighty. Thanks for the help. I'll give that a try tomorrow.
Any specific 2 Cycle oil I should use?

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

Anything labeled TCW3. Most I've seen is clearly labeled on front. It's not a small print.

Even Walmart brand is. I've never seen a quart size.
Only seen the gallon or 4 oz (?) bottle

For now it's not confirmed so use any 2 stroke available.
TCW3 is for long term to keep carbon at minimum.

Good luck.

jm526

iTrader: (2)

Just to be clear....cause I've never messed with 2cycle oil....the 2cycle goes in the gas right?

Thanks

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

Yes.

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

You may want to mix some with gas since you're putting so
little in . You'll just be coating the fill tube .
Proper way is oil then gas .

satch

iTrader: (1)

While premixing, your error codes will continue for the OMP and it will eventually ruin your ECU so you'll have to address that problem as well. The solutions are to get another used OMP which won't throw any more error codes or have your ECU chipped w/an Rtek which will disable the OMP function and leave your ECU alone to do its thing.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i will tell you the answer you do not want to hear.

1) your OMP codes are unrelated to the smoke issue and a secondary problem to the real one.

2) you have a coolant seal failure. the easy way to identify it is the clear misfiring on cranking followed by erratic ignition for a short while after starting the car cold. the 'running on one rotor' condition is present when coolant is trying to be burned in the engine and is fouling the ignition until all the coolant is expelled from the engine. a minor internal leak will only present itself on cold starts but eventually progress into an overheating condition and eventually a no start condition all of the time.



even a faulty oil metering pump could not inject that much oil, no way, not ever.

considering how fast this issue progressed since the last thread you posted i don't think you can even get by in limping the engine for a short while. prepare the engine for a rebuild by draining all the coolant out of the radiator AND the block drain and run the engine with no coolant for about 2 minutes then store the car until you can get around to rebuilding it.

you will still need to address the failing OMP situation, which can be the pump itself or if it has gone long enough unchecked: the pump, engine harness and ECU.

sorry for your loss.

jm526

iTrader: (2)

Yay so its done??? Lol

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yes.

the symptoms are exact to a car ingesting coolant into the engine overnight. the smoke is too thick and comes too fast to be oil and oil usually will not foul the ignition. even if it happens to be oil and i am completely wrong it is pushing far too much past the oil seals to be supplemented in any form.

jm526

iTrader: (2)

Swap time. Thanks Rotary

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i would still recommend doing the suggested above, drain the block if you have any plans to keep or sell it. if coolant sits in the engine it will rust up components to the point of being unusable if it sits too long. up to a week is "ok", beyond that it will start seizing parts and cause damage to them.

if after running the engine initially to clear it out, starting it again a while later it runs normally then you know it is coolant seal related. it may still smoke from residual coolant in the exhaust but it should start and run smoothly. just don't run an engine for longer than 3-4 minutes with no coolant in it. draining the block is the most important, most people fail to do that and just drain the radiator while the engine is still full of coolant. the block drain is a 14mm bolt in the driver side engine mount facing the engine.

jm526

iTrader: (2)

I have 1 more question......

Wouldn't I be loosing coolant drastically over night? My coolant level stays the same over night.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

not necessarily, even a cup of coolant will cause the symptoms described and be difficult to track with air pockets developing in the cooling system.

eventually it should get low enough to need to be refilled but given enough time you should be seeing either coolant or oil levels dropping. it is obviously consuming either of the 2 and the levels should be dropping sooner or later.

you can also do a cooling system pressure test on the cold engine, remove the spark plugs and EGI fuse, crank the engine with a piece of paper over the ports and you should see oil or coolant come out of one or both chambers. pump the system up to 13psi and then crank the engine over. simply removing the EGI fuse, crank the engine for 2-3 seconds, remove the plugs and check for coolant on the plugs should also give you an idea.


not all coolant smells sweet when burned.

jm526

iTrader: (2)

I was bored today. I checked my codes again. Same code 20 and 26 came up again. So I pulled out the downloaded FSM and decided to check the OMP section


I checked the resistance for the omp and all I would get is 0.03 and all the checks,the FSM calls for 19-23.

Bad OMP?

When I checked the OMP sensor,it came out good.

I know RotaryRevolution said its burning coolant.I topped it off and I haven't lost any coolant in 48 he's.checked my spark plug holes(paper towel,no egi fuse,cranked it over)no coolant on the paper.

Thanks for the help.

bpdchief

iTrader: (7)

I'm with Rotary Evolution on this one. My FD would do that do and it was only consuming minor amounts of coolant. I couldn't see your videos because when I clicked on them it said this video is private. Now one last thing I thought about., is it turboed or NA? WE had a turbo go out recently and it smoked like a locomotive all the time. If it's an NA, I belive it's your coolant seals taking a crap.

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

I think you have answered your own question.... And by following the FSM. congrats!

jm526

iTrader: (2)

If you mean that in a honest way. Thank you.

If your being sarcastic, that isn't very nice sir.

Thanks

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

No... I was being serious . Most people don't bother to check the fsm...


I've been through both of these problems... Blown coolant seals... Fix is a rebuild.

Bad OMP... Fix was going with a megasquirt... And premixing

jm526

iTrader: (2)

Oh OK. Thanks to Satch,I consult to the FSM after the search. Thanks a lot for your kind words