clutch pushes in and doesn't come back up
#1
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clutch pushes in and doesn't come back up
2day while i was driving my clutch just started to push in adn not come back up. It doesn't do it all the time but it pushes in half way with no problem. wut could it b
#2
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Clutch hydraulics.
Replace the Master and Slave cylinder, preferably the hose between the two as well.
The master and slave can be had for ~50 at www.nopionline.com .
The hose, you can either get from a dealership for a rubber replacement, or a SS braided hose from www.mazdatrix.com for ~18.
Replace the Master and Slave cylinder, preferably the hose between the two as well.
The master and slave can be had for ~50 at www.nopionline.com .
The hose, you can either get from a dealership for a rubber replacement, or a SS braided hose from www.mazdatrix.com for ~18.
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Originally posted by 86mazdarx7
is it alrite to drive until i get the parts friday
is it alrite to drive until i get the parts friday
Before someone chimes in and says you can shift without a clutch, yes. Are you doing harm to your transmission? Most likely.
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Don't drive the car until you can get it fixed.
Did you look to see if you have clutch fluid in the res?
I got in my GXL one day , pushed the pedal down, and it didn't come back up.
Replaced the hose, cleaned-up the slave, replaced the fluid, blead the system, and blam-o feels like new.
Couple hours work (I'm slow and get distracted easially..."oh look, a bug...") and like $20
Cory
Did you look to see if you have clutch fluid in the res?
I got in my GXL one day , pushed the pedal down, and it didn't come back up.
Replaced the hose, cleaned-up the slave, replaced the fluid, blead the system, and blam-o feels like new.
Couple hours work (I'm slow and get distracted easially..."oh look, a bug...") and like $20
Cory
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There is a process to use to identify the problem. Don't assume it is the master cylinder or slave cylinder.
1. Check fluid level in the Master Cylinder, if fluid level is low add DOT 3 brake fluid to top line. Check the system for air in the line. If you can pump the pedal and build up some pressure then you can drive it when essential. If there is air in the line the pedal will be soft and not very responsive. Once you bleed the line the pedal should respond as it once did.
2. Check hydraulic connections for leaks,
3. Check rubber hydraulic line at both ends for problems,
4. Check slave cylinder and master cylinder for leaks.
You should find a problem in one of these areas. If the fluid level in low in the master cylinder and yu refill it and it goes low again you know you have a leak. Locate the leak and replace the faulty part.
1. Check fluid level in the Master Cylinder, if fluid level is low add DOT 3 brake fluid to top line. Check the system for air in the line. If you can pump the pedal and build up some pressure then you can drive it when essential. If there is air in the line the pedal will be soft and not very responsive. Once you bleed the line the pedal should respond as it once did.
2. Check hydraulic connections for leaks,
3. Check rubber hydraulic line at both ends for problems,
4. Check slave cylinder and master cylinder for leaks.
You should find a problem in one of these areas. If the fluid level in low in the master cylinder and yu refill it and it goes low again you know you have a leak. Locate the leak and replace the faulty part.
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