boostkeepsmesane7

iTrader: (1)

I just got the car all back together and running just had motor rebuild. And before I took everything out my clutch worked fine. Now when I first realized it wouldn't go into gear when it was running I replaced the master and slave cylinder because the old ones where torn up after I did that and bleed it still wouldn't go in gear. So I pulled my tranny loosened up and torqued down the pressure plate to specs. Because the guy who buildt my motor used a impact to tighten it down so I figured it might be unevenly torqued and was catching. Now I would've pulled the whole clutch and pressure plate if I had the alignment tool at the time. Idk if I just haven't bleed it enough to get enough pressure to fully depress the pressure plate. Anyone got any suggestions before I pull the trans agin?

88_N/A_GXL

iTrader: (3)

Did you get a good look at the clutch disc? I had a similar problem, it wouldn't go into gear while running but I could with it off. Ended up my clutch disc had shattered, but I couldn't tell by just having the trans off and looking, I had to actually pull it all while having pieces fall on the floor.

If that's good I'd look into a fork pivot, pilot bearing jammed up locking eccentric to your input shaft, or a throwout bearing.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Can you get a helper to watch the clutch slave cylinder to see if it's pushing the fork? The question then, if it is pushing it, is if it's pushing it far enough?

What's your method of bleeding it? Did you start by gravity bleeding it?

boostkeepsmesane7

iTrader: (1)

The slave cylinder pushes the fork I just don't kno if it goes far enough and I would just have my buddy pump the clutch 5 times havin him hold on the 5th time then I'd loosen the bleeder screw is there any better ways than that or a certain way I have to do it

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Force bleed it from the bleeder up through the master cylinder and reservoir. Use a mityvac (can be bought from most auto parts stores, but the cheapest would be from harbor freight)

Use the little can that it comes with, and put brake fluid in it. Then, pressurize the can using the mityvac (yes, it can be done, you just have to use the discharge side, vice the vacuum side). There's a straw in the can that goes to the bottom, that's the side that's going to go to the bleeder screw.

Before doing this, make certain you have about 1/2" of freeplay in the clutch pedal. Otherwise, you could be blocking the vent ports in the master cylinder.

boostkeepsmesane7

iTrader: (1)

Alright cool thanks for the info I'm gonna get one first thing tommorow morning and give it a try. And when u mean 1/2" free play should I just have my buddy lightly step on the clutch?

boostkeepsmesane7

iTrader: (1)

Or can u explain more

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Wiggle the clutch pedal up and down. Get a ruler or measuring tape and measure (from the floor board) how much the pedal moves with light pressure (wiggle room) before it hits any sort of resistance. This is done because there are small orifices inside the master cylinder that allow for fluid expansion/contraction, and "take-up". Take-up is more for calipers, which when the pads wear down, it requires more fluid in the system to account for the extra travel. That way, your pedal won't get low over time. Not an issue with a clutch, but you get the idea.

You adjust this by tightening/loosening the pushrod.

boostkeepsmesane7

iTrader: (1)

So how do u get this mighty vac to push the fluid and not pump it

lsmsc

I had the same problem some time ago. The problem was that my clutch plate was installed wrong.

When you look at the clutch plate from the side, one side sticks out more than the other. This side must face the transmission. If its installed the other way round, the clutch doesn't fully (but partly) disengage, making it impossible tho shift into gear with a standing car.

boostkeepsmesane7

iTrader: (1)

Well I'm not getting any pressure in my pedal when I hold down on the clutch and open the bleeder the pedal automaticly sticks to the floor

lsmsc

If it sticks to the floor, there is no pressure in the brake-system. First, look that there is enough brake fluid. Then move the pedal up and down by hand. The pedal should get resistance after 3-5 tries. If not, check if your leaking fluid somewhere!

I'm not sure why you need some vacuum-tool for bleeding the clutch. A brake-fluid resistant hose and a little mug or bottle is enough.
Fill the bottle with a little brake fluid, open the bleeding-screw and put the hose on it. The other end comes in the bottle, so the hose is submerged in fluid. Now move the clutch-pedal up and down (best done with a second person, till no air is comming out of the hose. Secure the bleeding-screw, refill the master with fluid and re-apply pressure by moving the clutch pedal. And you're done...

Rx7Ridah

iTrader: (8)

If your replaced the master chances are that the throw needs to be adjusted on the rod that goes from the pedal to the master. Loosen the lock nut and adjust it rod (probably in towards the master) leave the lock nut loose, start and try to engage the gear, adjust until working proper and lock back down

boostkeepsmesane7

iTrader: (1)

See ive bleed it the way u mention a billion times and everytime I have my friend pump the pedal 5 times and have him hold on the 5 th time while I loosen the bleeder valve I've got have a 20 ounce bottal half full I've bleed it so much

boostkeepsmesane7

iTrader: (1)

It gets stuck on the fith time but when the bleeder is closed it has enough pressure not to stick

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

It may take some time to get the air out of the clutch hydraulics,but that is what you are encountering In my opinion.
I get a buddy to pump up 5 times,crack the bleeder while he has the pedal down and Squirt!..then Close the bleeder.
IF the clutch pedal sticks on the floor then help it up with your hands,or foot.
Make sure the cap is ON the master when you bled so it can suck juice from the master to the slave.I found when it doesn't have the cap on it doesn't work as well.
Another method is to get a CLEAR hose and put it on the bleeder and crack the bleeder and Suck some fluid up,and into the hose,Shut the bleeder and then do a 5 pump bleed(repeat until you get a firm pedal).Do not suck fluid into your mouth!..

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Ok... on top of the mityvac is a port. It's literally right in front of the vacuum gauge. That's the pressure port. In other words, the air you're vacuuming out the front has to go somewhere, and mityvac figured it'd be handy to have a pressure option as well. The way I described is possibly the most thorough brake bleeding sequence I know of. If all else has failed, that's what I turn to.

The pedal will get stuck to the floor, it's the fingers on the clutch that make it return. Not the spring on the pedal assembly. If the pressure in the system has been bled off, it's not going to push the pedal back up. The brake pedal does this, but not the clutch pedal. Rx7Ridah posted what I already said to do as well. You have to check the clutch pedal freeplay, it's not an option or friendly suggestion. It just won't work unless it's set properly. Grab the clutch pedal and lightly wiggle it up and down. If it moves less than 1/2", then you need to adjust the pushrod length.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

.

88_N/A_GXL

iTrader: (3)

Yea, if the pedal is not coming back up it may be a bad disc like I said. At least that was my problem, the disc had shattered and wedged itself to be about 3x as thick in parts and some of the pressure plate fingers were like I had the clutch depressed while others were only partially down. I got lucky and my flywheel was fine, I could still even see the machining marks/swirls on it and it's OE, gotta love buying a lightly used 2 owner car with only ~60k.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

lightly used?..Ok then,..I got 3 shattered discs as well,But I was really "abused"..lol!

88_N/A_GXL

iTrader: (3)

I am second owner and my grandfather was first owner and bought the car new in '88 and babied the car, so I would say lightly used. The only reason I think it shattered was because the car had sat not running for about 2 1/2 years and barely driven for the 2 years prior to that, there were about 100 other things wrong too but that's in a different thread.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

The clutch pedal is not returning because he bled the pressure off. Not because the clutch disc is shattered. It was the case with yours, but he JUST had the transmission off. I'm pretty sure he'd have seen broken pieces.

88_N/A_GXL

iTrader: (3)

I could not see and broken pieces until I pulled the pressure plate off, OP said that he had only tightened them down and didn't mention if he pulled it first.

boostkeepsmesane7

iTrader: (1)

ya my pressure plate looks fine and man thats gay i bought a acctual mityvac to and for some reason mine does not have that it has a lil valve buildt in to let the pressure out but thats it im so irritated with this situation i wanna drive my car !!!! but i came up with a possible plan idk if it will work but let me know wat u think. im thinking i use the old resavor cap from the old master cylinder drill a hole in the top of it and use adaptor that fits tight in to for my mighty vac. then have a hose attached to the bleeder valve and put that in brake fluid and suck the air out that way. also i adjusted it so my clutch pedal to a 1/2" of free play. i have yet to try my idea becuase only have the weekends to work on it witch sucks but tommorow night im trying it ill check on here before i start see if u guys got anything to add to this thanks for the ideas and help.

88_N/A_GXL

iTrader: (3)

It sounds like a plan. There are similar tools for brakes so I don't see why it wouldn't work that way.