jono20

dont tell em to search, im not in the mood.

my clutch isnt engaging or disengaging right. I ahve had signs of it slipping or anything, it jsut happen suddenly.

when I push the pedal down it is limp throughout most of the stroke, then it finally engages a bit at the bottom. im having trouble getting it into gear with the engine on.

new clutch on the way? or could it be something to do with the lines or pedal?

thanks guys.

jono20

and I dont know if it matters, but when the clutch pedal is depressed I can hear some fluid squidging around.

jono20

ok well as an update... I believe ive determined it to be the hydraulics, NOT the clutch.

im trying to bleed the system, though ive never done it.

the first time I had the clutch pedal all the way down (it jsut sits there by itself now..) and I opened the bleeder screw and air came out, then I closed it and pump the clutch a bunch of times and it got springy again (wooo hoo)

but then I went to do it again, clutch pedal in, open screw, close screw, and now its back to how it was.

any ideas? am I bleeding it wrong? and how far is that little arm coming off the release cylinder supposed to move exactly? when the clutch is depressed that is...

rx7ryan

i don't know if you replaced the slave or master cylinder, but i just did both. i did the slave first and it worked for a few seconds then the pedal stuck to the floor. then i replaced the master and it works perfectly fine. it's recommended to replace both anyway. if you replaced the master, there is a WHOLE LOT of air in the system and it's going to take you a WHOLE LOT of pumps and bleeder openings to get it out. at the end, you'll have the pedal to the floor after opening the bleeder, but after you pick it up and pump a few times, it'll feel like it's supposed to. if you replaced the slave and it fails after a few shifts, you have to replace the master. don't know if this helped, but atleast i tried.

jono20

I havnt replaced either, this just happened randomly.

jono20

okkkk well.. ive found the problem... the release cylinder is leaking.

now what!?

88t2romad

replace the release cylinder...then just make sure you bleed the clutch again.

jono20

super.. I wonder if Ill be able to get the release cylinder locally, or if Ill have to order it in...

how exactly does one remove the release cylinder with that antifreeze hose in the way?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Replace both the master and slave while you are in there. Just replacing one, the other often follows. A new hose wouldn't hurt either

I use either a wrench or a couple of long extensions to get to the slave. A wobbley helps too.

|)@71|)

hey i had the same problem...There was a pinhole on my hydraulic line...so i have to go to the dealership and buy/order a new hose...You said you slave cylinder was leaking...you sure its not just the hose?

To check, have a friend press down the clutch and watch for the leak. If it IS the hose, you probabaly dont need a new slave cylinder.

I know how that antifreeze tube is in the way. I just took it off

By the way, if it IS only the hose, dont bother trying to tape it up or what not, its pointless. WAY too much pressure.

jono20

nope, I went back and pumped the clutch and watched as fluid squirted from the slave, so im sure thats it.

do I reaally hafta replace the master too? monneyyy!

slpin

iTrader: (9)

dude
buy a slave rebuild kit
it is like 25 bucks
tell your girl, screw you bitch, i gotta fix my car

jono20

yeah but then I have to order it, which takes a lot of time.

Its not the girl im worried about I jsut want my car back

Im hoping that I might maybe be able to find the slave cylinder locally.

Archangels

i read it and jumped to reply....

look for a pocket of air in your fluid....

and if it's slipping, burn your clutch some, helped me greatly....

WAYNE88N/A

You can buy both the master and slave rebuild kits from your local auto parts store for less than $25...

Pull everything out together- don't break any lines...

Set everything on your work bench, drain as much fluid as you can.

Push in on the master's piston to get the slave seals to pop out, then pressurize the slave bore to get the master's guts to pop out (with the cap on the master reservoir).

Get some solvent and a small strip of scotchbrite, and clean out the bores of each unit.

Pour some new fluid into the master reservoir, and let gravity take care of flushing the system out, all the way to the slave bore (hold the master up, in other words). Make sure the fluid coats the bore chambers...

Install the new kits into the bores, then fill the reservoir with new fluid.

Find something (I use a socket and C-clamp) to keep the slave's piston from popping out. Crack the slave's bleeder screw, attach a small hose going into a small glass of new fluid. Clear hose will work best, as long as it fits tightly around the bleeder fitting.

Use a phillips screwdriver, and actuate the master's piston to begin bleeding the system, keep going until all bubbles cease coming out of the slave (keeping the slave above the level of the master on your workbench will help).

Tighten down the bleeder screw, install the reservoir cap, remove the c-clamp, and reinstall the complete assy back into the car...No further bleeding should be necessary...

Go have fun

jono20

frig just ordered the new slave from Lordco. friggin 90 bucks. noootttt a happy camper. maybe I should jsut order the master and a new hose from mazdatrix right now so I dont have to pay tat again when they go