RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Yes, because the brake fluid we all have in our clutch hydraulics from the factory could "eat the seals" at any moment now, leak down and hit the exhaust, catching fire and burning our cars to the ground. All because we didn't use the correctly specified unobtanium clutch hydraulic fluid.

I've been doing some research on this matter and I've found that the special clutch fluid is manufactured by mixing the blood of a sasquatch with the oils from a dragon's skin, packaged by the easter bunny and is then delivered to the store by a unicorn-drawn sleigh driven by santa claus.

Also, there is this:

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

^

op. just do what he says. its 25 year old stuff man. there could be a bubble a pin hole leak in ur tube. etc etc. just replace it. that's what i did and im sure the 100s of other members did too. SS hose from corksport is like 20 bucks shipped. i went to my local non franchise chain brand auto parts store and get new slave and master cylinder. problem went away.

also search feature is great in avoiding frustrating the more senior members go through all the hassle to prove a point that every one already knows. for god sakes he had pull out the FSM.

hope that helps.
bunta out.

gerald m

Sometimes people that are eager to learn take advise from the wrong sources , lets all cut a little slack and hope our new members have learned something about hydraulic clutches and brakes . ( what to use and what not to use ).. Like my great grandpappy use to say Son you can buy a ***** a new dress but you can't teach her culture .

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Monica Lewinsky found that out quick too Gerald!...(oww..in Da Face..lol!)

gerald m

She spent a lot of time under the table and here I just thought she was clumsey and just kept droping her fork. Boobies like headlights on a jeep but I always thought she looked like the north end of a cow going south.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

It's the exact same ****!

brake... http://lakeland.edu/AboutUs/MSDS/PDF...0Brands%29.pdf

clutch... http://www.technicalchemical.com/msds/2312-6.pdf

Brandon Robinson

iTrader: (3)

Wow, you really got butt hurt over that one. The car i had the problem with was a Toyota Supra so go look up the FSM on that car and see if it specs DOT 3 for the clutch. I was offering the thread some help not acting like a sasquatch in a unitard. I am glad you did the research and offered this thread some good information. I admit that i did not know that these clutches use brake fluid. I do know for a fact that I used brake fluid in my Supra and the damn thing went out in less than 24 hours.

I have been running "Clutch fluid"in my clutch and it works perfectly.Where is the need to have a fluid that can handle +600 F on a hydraulic ram that is on the bellhousing? At least that is Toyota's logic.

Great way to earn the respect of potential customers, I see why Goopy does not rant on the forums now.

Brandon Robinson

iTrader: (3)

Here is a good test to prove that they are different. Get some brake fluid on your paint and see if it does not ruin your paint job. ISO-xx i.e. the fluid any hydraulics system from heavy equipment to shop equipment like a brake press or a bulldozer uses. hydraulic fluid will not eat your paint job you can spill it and wipe it off with no harm to your clear coat. Hell engine oil would work in hydraulic systems, these MSDS sheets you posted do not even have hydrocarbons in them... It would cost a pretty penny to put 25 gallons of brake fluid in a forklift after busting a hose. The point is that I know from experience that brake fluid is totally different from hydraulic fluid/clutch fluid and that is it designed to meet the temperature demand of the temperatures experienced in braking systems.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

POST ON MAZDA RX7 FORUM

TALK ABOUT SPECIFICATIONS OF TOYOTA SUPRAS

I see. So just to clarify, correcting misinformation on an internet forum is classified as 'ranting". Thanks for pointing that out.

Oh, and just so you're aware, I don't come to this forum to earn customers. My 13 years of rotary shop ownership does that for me. I was off this forum for exactly 5 years until this month and my business had one of it's best years ever last year. What goes on within this forum has little bearing on my business. Nice try to draw attention away from you being completely and absolutely wrong.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

THE POINT IS THAT WHAT YOU POSTED ABOVE IS TOTAL AND COMPLETE BULLSHIT AND NOW YOU'RE TRYING TO SWAY THE DISCUSSION TO OTHER TECHNICAL AREAS INSTEAD. We don't care if one eats paint or not, we don't care if one costs a bit more than the other. We care which ones work IN THIS CAR.

You clearly stated above, "brake fluid will eat the seals in your clutch hydraulics" which is not the case for THE CAR WE ARE TALKING ABOUT HERE ON THIS FORUM IN THIS THREAD. Let me say that again: YOUR ORIGINAL POST WAS DEAD WRONG.

MrGoodnight

iTrader: (1)

This made me laugh a lot!
Glad your back.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Upside?..........at least if the Brakes go out,the car's paint will be Unscathed by the spilled Fluid.
.......
Side note: I hope the OP feels he got his answer before this thread went into the sink!

NCross

iTrader: (18)

But, what if we put clutch fluid in our brakes? Whoa... I think I just blew my own mind.

Brandon Robinson

iTrader: (3)

Agreed, I would like to apologize to Joe for being a part of this trolled thread. Let us get back on track . When I ruined the other clutch on the Toy, the seals in the slave cylinder went out. I would start by visually inspecting the components for signs of fluid leaking out. You can start by looking under the dash where the clutch pedal linkage passes through the firewall into the master cylinder and inspect the area for fluid. While you are down there try to jiggle the linkage and see if it has come loose or become bound up. Then move on to the line, check the flared tubing for kinks, loose fittings and leaks. If everything from there is tight and dry move on to the hose and inspect it for cracks leaks and or loose fittings. Last i would look at the slave cylinder and check for fluid bypassing the gland. There would be fluid on your transmission bell housing where it is leaking out of the rear of the slave cylinder behind the dust boot. If there are no evident signs of loose fittings, cracked plumbing or leaks I would suspect that the gland in the master cylinder has gone out and is not building pressure.

Good luck.

Brandon Robinson

iTrader: (3)

It is amazing how you would post the fsm to prove your point and not to provide the tread with the information that it needs.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

It's amazing that you failed to read the posts **before you ever got here** where I diagnosed the OP's problem and suggested course of repair. Furthermore I posted info about the **correct** fluid for the clutch hydraulic system **on this car**. So that is two correct posts for me, and still zero for you.

That's three strikes, you're out, thanks for playing, better luck next time.

Brandon Robinson

iTrader: (3)

I did read the previous post and the only diagnostics you did was tell the OP to replace everything and pray it works because every thing is 25 years old. That is some top notch diagnostics work there. I am so glad that the community has you around to help us run things down to the problem instead of throwing money away for parts that probably don't need to be replaced.

But since we all are not as awesome as rotary resurrection we should just throw our 25 year old cars in the trash and ride the bus from now on, because people who have to ride the bus have money to throw away on parts.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

You just can't let it go and admit you were wrong, can you? You have to keep attacking me to try and validate your own inaccurate claims. Do you know how foolish you are making yourself look? For this reason, this will be my last reply to you in this thread.

You would seriously suggest that someone spend time and fluids troubleshooting on 25 year old wear components that can be bought new/rebuilt for $25 each? Really? Listen man, my time is worth more than that, so for something as simple as this, you can bet you a$$ I'm buying all the parts brand new and simply replacing it as a group, bleeding it once, and never worrying about it again for the life of the car.

But hey, if you want to spend time chasing your tail and "troubleshooting" all so that you can claim to be a "proper mechanic and not a parts replacer" then that's fine, you go right ahead. What you will have overlooked is the fact that part of being an experienced mechanic often means looking at the big picture and realizing that REPLACING THE PARTS AS A GROUP IS OFTEN CHEAPER THAN TROUBLESHOOTING THEM. My time and reputation are worth more than $75 so I'll replace all those parts each time they are in question without even spending my time or the customer's money to "troubleshoot".

As for your comment about "replacing the parts and praying it works", that's foolish. If you replace all the components of a system, then that system pretty much has no choice but to function properly afterward. It is YOU who would be troubleshooting and replacing a single part and "praying it works" because you still have one or two more unknown/unreliable parts in the existing system. But you're too caught up in the notion of "troubleshooting and not replacing parts" to see that.

gerald m

Well joecarrillo how is the clutch coming ? Have you got the problem cured? If you are still having problems I'm sure if you PM any of the first 8 or 10 responders they would be happy to help you along . R-R has given you very good solid advise but I'm sure you have figured that out for your self . Have a good one man and not to be discouraged this sort of thing doesn't happen very often . generally our senior members advise is RESPECTED AND TRUSTED Have a good one .. My last post here also. Gerald m.

marclong

iTrader: (1)

Landers is back I see. Very good. Very valuable asset to the forum. Welcome back.!

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Just like in the other thread, I'll say check your pedal return spring. It's rare, so often it's overlooked although easy to check.

Re: diagnosis vs. parts replacement - it all depends on the situation.

If you're working on your car and want to actually know where the problem was, there's nothing wrong with diagnosis. You can learn a lot working on your car, diagnosing and taking things apart. It is in fact the proper way, but not necessarily the best.

If you're working in a shop, RR's advice is dead on, in the sense that if the parts are cheap and easily accessible, you'll actually be saving money for the customer by just replacing. You can save the diagnosis for other jobs that require it or are worth it for the customer. This is when you show the customer you actually saved them money, and gain a return customer and word of mouth spreads.

One thing missed though...who's saying any or all of the parts are original? Something to keep in mind before replacing good parts, especially if you're not in a shop.