joecarrillo

clutch pedal get stuck to the floor , what is making it stay there , cylinders? Fork ?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Probably the hydraulics.
Replace the whole circuit- master, slave and hose- at one time, makes life much easier.

REAmemiya_fan

Racing beat sells a nice stainless slave hose for $20. Cheaper than oem rubber and will probably last a little longer. I wouldn't count on it making for a firmer pedal such as the myth goes. Looks nice though.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Clutch master, clutch slave, SS braided line, new fluid, thorough bleed and proper pedal adjustment, and you'll be SURPRISED at how nice the clutch feels and how well the car drives afterward. One of the best <$100 repairs/maintenance items you can do to the car.

Moksha

iTrader: (5)

Yes listen to all mighty clokker. He knows what he's talking about trust me... And when you thought you have lost all hope when trying to bleed the system. Try try again

Ricer240sx

iTrader: (3)

I would bleed first...if u just ahve an air bubble then u save hundreds in replacing **** u dont need to....

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

You can rebuild or replace your slave and master for well under $100. Even if they "kinda-sorta" still work okay after bleeding, after 25 years they definitely do not feel and function like they should, and the car's performance and reliability can suffer because of it. Also if they've given you trouble once already the odds are very good that they'll give you more trouble again soon.

If you're too cheap to spend 100 bucks on maintenance on a car you presumably have no car payment on (and thus it's saving you a lot of money vs a new car) then you should sell it and take the bus.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

But..How did the air get there?.
BAD system!.,That's how.
and what do you do for that?
Replace it!

Ricer240sx

iTrader: (3)

my appology....as a mechanic i like to identify the problem before throwing parts at it...

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

I can identify the problem for you without even touching it.

25 year old weak clutch hydraulics

There, feel better?

Would you also use a tread depth checker to determine the feasibility of continued use of 25 year old tires that have already exhibited hardness and vibration, or would you simply know that they need to be replaced? Would you use a micrometer to measure the remaining pad thickness on 25 year old brake pads that have been squealing loudly, or would you simply replace them? IF your original radiator develops a leak would you spend time trying to find the leak to see if it can be repaired or would you simply buy a replacement?

We're not launching the space shuttle here, bro. You have an old original wear component, it gives you trouble,it is a cheap part and an easy repair, you replace it and move on with one fewer worry in life.

Brandon Robinson

iTrader: (3)

slave cylinder rebuilt kits are ten dollars on ebay... I say spend the $20 to rebuild the master and slave and have peace of mind that your 25 year old hydraulics are good as new.

midnightbluefc

iTrader: (19)

do it all at once one time only. THE FIRST TIME. thats the best advice i can give any one, eliminate all possible break downs in the future, because at the end of the day when something fails on our 25+ year old cars it usually happens out on the road never down the street or on your driveway...

joecarrillo

Thanks guys , I already bleed it out couple times but still the same , but its true I need to replace them

Brandon Robinson

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like someone put brake fluid in the clutch. I did that a long time ago when i was to young to understand what i did

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

user 8202

Also remember, if one is out, replace them both.

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

Go to same thing happened to me. Replace the Cylinder and Slave and it'll be fixed.

If you want 100% conformation. Have a friend move the clutch pedal with his hands, while you look at the clutch fork on the trans. You'll see little to no movement.

joecarrillo

So it can't be the fork or bearing ? And what fluid do I use for the clutch

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

brake fluid.

clutch forks are hard as hell to break. unless you have some crazy stiff racing clutch on there, it aint the fork.

replace the slave, master, and get a SS line.

Do it. dont ask any more questions. get everything i said, get it now, and you will be ok. trust us.

Brandon Robinson

iTrader: (3)

Brake fluid will eat the seals. You can use iso-32 hydraulic fluid or get some clutch fluid. I was 18 when I did it, I didn't know my a$$hole from my elbow back then . Brake fluid will destroy your clutch's hydraulic seals, I cannot stress how important that is. If you want to test it take a cap of brake fluid and put an o-ring in it and tell me if it swells up.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I cannot stress how wrong you are.

What is so different about the clutch hydraulics that would require a special fluid?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

..so Last year then..Right?(Them youngsters!)
Dot 3 brake fluid is the "norm" for the clutch.
Maybe you are thinking Transmission Fluid?

gerald m

^^^ That's right Mister even better is dot 4 which is just a little better fluid is kind to paint, does not absorb water and stands up a little better to high temp high pressure . Most people use it in motorcycle applications to prevent paint peeling .

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

I see. So, let me get this straight: the CLUTCH master cyl and slave cyl have o-rings in them that will swell and get eaten by the brake fluid, however the BRAKE master cyl, calipers and *rubber lines* do not contain rubber o-rings or seals and thus that is why brake components can utilize brake fluid, but clutch hydraulics cannot.

To suit the powers that be, I've been trying to lay low and be politically correct since I've been here.

However I can't help it at this point:

user 8202

Haha. Some one bring the fire extinguishers.