clutch pedal get stuck to the floor
clutch pedal get stuck to the floor , what is making it stay there , cylinders? Fork ?
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Probably the hydraulics.
Replace the whole circuit- master, slave and hose- at one time, makes life much easier. |
Racing beat sells a nice stainless slave hose for $20. Cheaper than oem rubber and will probably last a little longer. I wouldn't count on it making for a firmer pedal such as the myth goes. Looks nice though.
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Clutch master, clutch slave, SS braided line, new fluid, thorough bleed and proper pedal adjustment, and you'll be SURPRISED at how nice the clutch feels and how well the car drives afterward. One of the best <$100 repairs/maintenance items you can do to the car.
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Yes listen to all mighty clokker. He knows what he's talking about trust me... And when you thought you have lost all hope when trying to bleed the system. Try try again
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I would bleed first...if u just ahve an air bubble then u save hundreds in replacing shit u dont need to....
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Originally Posted by Ricer240sx
(Post 11352294)
I would bleed first...if u just ahve an air bubble then u save hundreds in replacing shit u dont need to....
If you're too cheap to spend 100 bucks on maintenance on a car you presumably have no car payment on (and thus it's saving you a lot of money vs a new car) then you should sell it and take the bus. |
Originally Posted by Ricer240sx
(Post 11352294)
I would bleed first...if u just ahve an air bubble then u save hundreds in replacing shit u dont need to....
BAD system!.,That's how. and what do you do for that? Replace it! |
my appology....as a mechanic i like to identify the problem before throwing parts at it...
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Originally Posted by Ricer240sx
(Post 11352569)
my appology....as a mechanic i like to identify the problem before throwing parts at it...
25 year old weak clutch hydraulics There, feel better? :) Would you also use a tread depth checker to determine the feasibility of continued use of 25 year old tires that have already exhibited hardness and vibration, or would you simply know that they need to be replaced? Would you use a micrometer to measure the remaining pad thickness on 25 year old brake pads that have been squealing loudly, or would you simply replace them? IF your original radiator develops a leak would you spend time trying to find the leak to see if it can be repaired or would you simply buy a replacement? We're not launching the space shuttle here, bro. You have an old original wear component, it gives you trouble,it is a cheap part and an easy repair, you replace it and move on with one fewer worry in life. |
slave cylinder rebuilt kits are ten dollars on ebay... I say spend the $20 to rebuild the master and slave and have peace of mind that your 25 year old hydraulics are good as new.
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do it all at once one time only. THE FIRST TIME. thats the best advice i can give any one, eliminate all possible break downs in the future, because at the end of the day when something fails on our 25+ year old cars it usually happens out on the road never down the street or on your driveway...
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Thanks guys , I already bleed it out couple times but still the same , but its true I need to replace them
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Sounds like someone put brake fluid in the clutch. I did that a long time ago when i was to young to understand what i did :)
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Originally Posted by Brandon Robinson
(Post 11354632)
Sounds like someone put brake fluid in the clutch. I did that a long time ago when i was to young to understand what i did :)
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Also remember, if one is out, replace them both.
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Go to same thing happened to me. Replace the Cylinder and Slave and it'll be fixed.
If you want 100% conformation. Have a friend move the clutch pedal with his hands, while you look at the clutch fork on the trans. You'll see little to no movement. |
So it can't be the fork or bearing ? And what fluid do I use for the clutch
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Originally Posted by joecarrillo
(Post 11354908)
So it can't be the fork or bearing ? And what fluid do I use for the clutch
clutch forks are hard as hell to break. unless you have some crazy stiff racing clutch on there, it aint the fork. replace the slave, master, and get a SS line. Do it. dont ask any more questions. get everything i said, get it now, and you will be ok. trust us. |
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
(Post 11354817)
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Originally Posted by Brandon Robinson
(Post 11355572)
Brake fluid will destroy your clutch's hydraulic seals, I cannot stress how important that is.
What is so different about the clutch hydraulics that would require a special fluid? |
Originally Posted by Brandon Robinson
(Post 11354632)
Sounds like someone put brake fluid in the clutch. I did that a long time ago when i was to young to understand what i did :)
Dot 3 brake fluid is the "norm" for the clutch. Maybe you are thinking Transmission Fluid? |
^^^ That's right Mister even better is dot 4 which is just a little better fluid is kind to paint, does not absorb water and stands up a little better to high temp high pressure . Most people use it in motorcycle applications to prevent paint peeling .
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Originally Posted by Brandon Robinson
(Post 11355572)
Brake fluid will eat the seals. You can use iso-32 hydraulic fluid or get some clutch fluid. I was 18 when I did it, I didn't know my a$$hole from my elbow back then :). Brake fluid will destroy your clutch's hydraulic seals, I cannot stress how important that is. If you want to test it take a cap of brake fluid and put an o-ring in it and tell me if it swells up.
To suit the powers that be, I've been trying to lay low and be politically correct since I've been here. However I can't help it at this point: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/kl...ouretarded.jpg |
Haha. Some one bring the fire extinguishers.
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