2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

clutch pedal freeplay changing by itself

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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 03:29 PM
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clutch pedal freeplay changing by itself

So I just replaced both the master and slave cylinder with brand new ones on my 87 TII. I have a braided line between the two and my pedal freeplay changes with the temperature of the clutch. When it is cold the freeplay is a little more than I like and it engages a little close to the floor. Now when the clutch warms up the freeplay is almost completely gone and it engages almost all the way out. I even used Valvoline synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid. Any suggestions ? Maybe still have more air to bleed out ? I don't know I'm stumped.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 03:31 PM
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Aren't you supposed to use DOT 3? That's never given me any trouble. Either that or you may have another fluid in the lines (IE water), maybe.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 03:48 PM
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From what I understand the difference between the two is that DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than 3, other than that I think they're the same.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 05:08 PM
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Dunno if this matters here but did you BENCH BLEED the master cylinder? I just replaced my master and slave cylinders(kept the steel line) and could not get it up to pressure without removing and bench bleeding the master cylinder. Now it feels perfect.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 05:11 PM
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No I didn't bench bleed them cuz I have a mighty vac bleeder and I figured that would be sufficent, but maybe not.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 05:21 PM
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Wouldn't hurt to check the adjustment nuts on the upper part of the pedal, if you haven't already.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 05:24 PM
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Already did that. That's how I came up with the happy medium between to little and to much freeplay so that I can at least drive it today.
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Old Apr 8, 2007 | 08:59 AM
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If you find out what the problem is let me know. I have the same thing happening to me.
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Old Apr 8, 2007 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by boostedfc3s
So I just replaced both the master and slave cylinder with brand new ones on my 87 TII. I have a braided line between the two and my pedal freeplay changes with the temperature of the clutch. When it is cold the freeplay is a little more than I like and it engages a little close to the floor. Now when the clutch warms up the freeplay is almost completely gone and it engages almost all the way out. I even used Valvoline synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid. Any suggestions ? Maybe still have more air to bleed out ? I don't know I'm stumped.
It definatly sounds like a problem with the fluid. Just out of curiosity how old is the brake fluid?

Just a quote from "How Stuff Works.com" about brake fluid for the benifite of posterity:
What are the different types of brake fluid?


The issues specifications for brake fluid. The three main types of brake fluid now available are DOT3, DOT4 and DOT5. DOT3 and DOT4 are glycol-based fluids, and DOT5 is silicon-based. The main difference is that DOT3 and DOT4 absorb water, while DOT5 doesn't.
One of the important characteristics of brake fluid is its boiling point. Hydraulic systems rely on an incompressible fluid to transmit force. Liquids are generally incompressible while gases are compressible. If the brake fluid boils (becomes a gas), it will lose most of its ability to transmit force. This may partially or completely disable the brakes. To make matters worse, the only time you are likely to boil your brake fluid is during a period of prolonged braking, such a drive down a mountain -- certainly not the best time for brake failure!

As a DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid absorbs water, its boiling point decreases. It can absorb water from the air, which is why you should avoid opening your car's brake fluid reservoir. For the same reason, you should always keep containers of brake fluid tightly sealed.

DOT5 fluid does not absorb water. This means the boiling point will remain relatively stable, but it also means that any water that does get into your brake system will tend to form pure water pockets, which could cause brake corrosion.

Two other important things about brake fluid: DOT3 and DOT4 eat paint, so don't spill it on your car. Also, none of the different types of brake fluid should be mixed. They can react badly with each other and corrode your brake system.
When you bleed the system bleed it to a pressure around 8-15psi vac. That's what I did and I have a clutch that engages as soon as my foot goes about 1-2". However I do not think you have a problem with air in the line. It's almost like you have two different fluids in the line. one who's volume is dependent on the temperature, and there by increases clutch pressure to engage correctly. Either that our your viscous elements might be way off in the fluid because it's either old, or there's water in it. That's at least all I can think of. But i'm sure some guru's will come in here and tell you have to tighten some random screw on the engine and it will get the hydrolic system to work. But that's at least my $0.02.
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Old Apr 8, 2007 | 09:47 AM
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The master cylinder was rebuilt 2 weeks ago using spare from the parts car and a Mazda rebuilt kit. A new SS line was also installed. Fluid was flushed from system and replaced with fresh DOT 3 fluid. The only thing left is the slave and it was rebuilt last year. I am going to bleed it again and see if that will help, but that will be next weekend, to busy today.
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Old Apr 8, 2007 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by T2 vert
The master cylinder was rebuilt 2 weeks ago using spare from the parts car and a Mazda rebuilt kit. A new SS line was also installed. Fluid was flushed from system and replaced with fresh DOT 3 fluid. The only thing left is the slave and it was rebuilt last year. I am going to bleed it again and see if that will help, but that will be next weekend, to busy today.
Okay, great! let us know how it turns out. This is almost as peculiar as my disappearing-reappearing clutch fluid. I thought it might have just leaked out into the inside of the car one day, but then went out a day or so later and it was all back. weirdest thing i've ever had happen to me in the 7. I ended up doing a fresh rebuild on the master cyilinder with the kit from mazdatrix. well worth it in my opinon. I didn't really notice anything extremely bad with the oem equipment, but i did notice some scoring on the piston. Nothing major--just like 1 or 2 scoring marks.
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