2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Clutch Master/Slave Install questions.

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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 02:56 AM
  #1  
dobbles's Avatar
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Clutch Master/Slave Install questions.

hey,

my clutch is being a little goofy so i thought i'd replace the clutch master/slave cylinder pair to see how it feels after. I've ordered the parts, and they'll be here in a few hours, so I can't wait.

i've read several threads with different bleeding techniques and such, but i wanted to just ask more specifically 2 questions because when i searched it seemed like the threads were 'my clutch is messing up, what should i do?!' rather than specific questions for specific procedures.

is there anything special about installing the slave/master? or is it pretty straight forward? I have the haynes manual so I feel like I may be good, but any tips or helpful advice i should look out for when installing it?

Also, what would be the best way to bleed the clutch after fully replacing those parts? I've heard vacuum pump or whatnot, but i'm unsure how expensive that would be, or where i should go to get the pump, or even the procedure. I don't mind doing a 2 person method. Any way I can get it up and going tomorrow would be best.

Also, a bit sillier of a question, which one is the actual bleed hole on the slave? is it the one with the little rubber nipple on it?

sorry i'm just not familiar with doing it before, so if you can break it down into detail/step by step to help me out i'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks much!

Last edited by dobbles; Mar 15, 2008 at 03:01 AM.
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 03:03 AM
  #2  
staticguitar313's Avatar
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the master cylinder is FUUUNNNN to replace, getting to the bolts under the dash is annoying. Bleeding is pie, if you have a friend to pump the pedal you're set, no need to go all out with a vac bleeder or anything, it doesn't take long at all. New clutch hydraulics are great! If by chance this doesnt' solve your problem, look at the pedal play adjustment. If that doesn't solve it, clutch and clutch fork are your last checks.
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 06:27 AM
  #3  
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its a pretty straight forward parts swap just make sure you dont forget to bolt that little clip to the slave. also you may want to think about investing in a 8mm line wrench if you dont have one for the hard line fittings. to make it easier to get to the bleeder valve on the slave take off your oil filter it gives you a bit more room.
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by dobbles
Also, a bit sillier of a question, which one is the actual bleed hole on the slave? is it the one with the little rubber nipple on it?
Correct, the only other things to turn on the slave is the connecting line and the mounting bolts.
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 11:56 PM
  #5  
dobbles's Avatar
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i tried a bit on it today, no luck, i got one of the bolts from under the dash, the other wasn't coming out, there is no room under there.

as far as getting the master out, the steel line that runs out of the master, what would be the best way to unscrew/get that off? Do i Need to remove the box that is running wires to my spark plugs for enough room to remove the master cylinder?
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by dobbles
i tried a bit on it today, no luck, i got one of the bolts from under the dash, the other wasn't coming out, there is no room under there.

as far as getting the master out, the steel line that runs out of the master, what would be the best way to unscrew/get that off? Do i Need to remove the box that is running wires to my spark plugs for enough room to remove the master cylinder?
Try a long socket or a wrench, even 3mm room is enough to get it off with patience.

A boxed fuel line wrench is the best way to get it off, you will not need to remove the spark box.
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 10:11 PM
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If you have to..Yes..remove the Trailing Coil.it just gives you a little Wiggle room to get the Master out.That is IF you have Big Hands..and we all know these cars were made by Midgets anyhow!..and the Bolt on the master inside the Car can be got at,By using a Wrench..not a socket..TAKE YOUR TIME!.you aren't out to set a Speed record in Changing out your Clutch Hydraulics anyhow..you know they are Toast,so just Take your Time..the Car will Actually LAST LONGER if you do!
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 06:47 PM
  #8  
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okay i got my master out and the new one in, i'm working on the slave now but is being a bit difficult.

I took the intercooler off but I still can't quite reach the bolt. It was suggested to get the oil filter off but is ther any way around it? there is one tube that seems to be in my way that runs from the back of the block into the firewall. would that be okay to unclamp/remove.

ALso, a question about bleeding. Is the bleeder valve the actual bolt to each side of the little nipple part extending out? Is that nut the actual bleeder valve that I loosen to bleed the clutch? Do you keep the cap on the nipple part? The one in the engine does not have the cap on, but my new one does.

Also, when bleeding the clutch line, do I do anything to the master cylinder at all? or is it just clutch pedal work and slave cylinder?

I'll probably have more questions later too but thanks so much for everyone helping me out.
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 06:53 PM
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https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/clutch-master-slave-cylinder-%2Awriteup%2A-532869/


Help you?

Also, you don't have to take the oil filter off, you can just use a socket wrench to get the slave out but before that you have to bleed it.

The part where the fluid comes out is the part with out the hose going into it, you loosen that part and have someone pump it a few times, tighten, repeat...
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