ra ra rotory

ok ill give you all a small recap....when i bought my car it had a bad clutch...so i replaced it with a rp standard clutch kit..... all was good except it slipped at high rpm and after shifting.... also the feel of the peddle was extreamly light....

so i took it all out and put in an excedy clutch kit.... it slips even worse...

we (the forum) have yet to figure out what the problem is... the flywheel was reserfaced to spec and everything was installed correctly....

the only thing i can think that the problem is that hasnt been brought up yet is the fact that the clutch pedle is sooo light.

i didnt think much of it untill today when i felt the peddle of my friends 7 that has the exact same clutch as mine and it is alot stiffer....

what could cuase a light clutch pedel? is it my hydrolics? i need any help or any sugjestions..

marcus219

lack of pedal freeplay can cause clutch slippage...hydraulics like you said...

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

What about the pressure plate?

ra ra rotory

the pedel has free play.. adjusted to spec... and both times it has had a new pressure plate....

im not going to replace the hydrolics if i dont have to... i dont know hwta it could be

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Shoots the pressure plate theory out of the water..

Hmm.. Lets see.

I cant honestly understand how the hydraulics are causing it unless they are hanging up, and causing the pressure to remain in the system. Not normal behavoir for failing hydraulics. Wonder if the throw out system is acting up, and not letting the clutch sit all the way down. Did you check the throw out arm and spring and all that jazz?

Jarrett

nopistons

Long shot here, but it's possible that the flexible hose going to the clutch slave cylinder may have collapsed internally. If so, when you step on the pedal, the pressure forces its way past the restriction, but when you take your foot off the pedal, there's not enough pressure in the slave cylinder to force the fluid back, thus, the clutch remains partially disengaged and slips. Same thing can happen with the felxible lines on the front brakes, except in that case, the brakes won't release fully. Good luck.

gunluvS14

sounds to me you still have air in your clutch line, and your pedal position is off - not fully enage when you let go.
Don't know much about FC, but I know it is similar to Nissan.
Where is your enagement point when u take off or downshift? Does the pedal enagement height near the top or bottom/ OR does it change over time/temperture.

If so, I would bleed the clutch line first at your slave cylinder. Make sure you have plenty of fluid at your clutch master cylinder reservior. Bleed it nice and clean, that's should solve the soft pedal problem. If not, check and see if there are any leaks or not. Or if u are still not satisfy, u ought to try some stainless steel clutch line.(avaliable at K2RD )
After that, have a test and tune. Drive it around the block and see if u want your enagement point to lower or raise it up.
If u said it only slip at high rpm shifting, sounds like it doesn't catch all the way and cause it to "drag" the disc between your pressure plate and flywheel.
Look down to the clutch pedal and turn the link rod counterclockwise(away from the firewall). Have a 3 quarter adjustment at a time and see if it helps.

One final word, the excedy clutch u replace is just a OEM replacement. Excedy is not bad at all, but I assume you paid around $130 for that unit right? Excedy makes OEM clutch for many Japanese manufacture. For a nice upgrade, try ACT street. Promise, great stuff!! Good luck.
Also, give your clutch a good period of time of break in before you give it hell. I assume you have your old flywheel resurface and all.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

The only way it's going to slip, as long as there is no contamination on the disc, is that the pressure plate is not being released all the way, therefore not exerting enough pressure to secure the disc onto the flywheel.
Pressure shouldn't be that much different between the 2 cars.
I'd check freeplay and make sure the throwout bearing if off the pressure plate, even if you need to get under the car and disconnect the fork from the push rod, mark position, or measure position of fork when clutch fully engaged, hook it up and see if different.

ra ra rotory

I have a ss clutch line... so that kinda rules it out also....

I am definatly going to use act if i have to replace it again.... but im pretty sure its not the clutch....

how exactly do I check if its releasing all the way on the throw out bearing? can someone explain that more in depth? im going to bleed my system again when i get another pair of hands... last time I did it i used one of those one man bleeder things.....

ra ra rotory

ok..... so I bleed the system. heres my conclusion...

-I know it has to do something with the pedal being so light

-When I bleed it, it didnt help... it feels like there is still air in the system or something

- Im begining to suspect my slave cylander.. could that be it? cuase the clutch does 'chatter' a little

I really need help with this guys... thanks for all the help so far

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Here is the deal...

The hydraulics are there for the SOLE purpose of disengaging the clutch. NOTHING MORE. Unless there is some way the pressure of the system isnt being released when the clutch is released or the slave cylinder is just completely hung up, there is NO WAY your hydraulics are causing it.

Want to eliminate your hydraulics? Release all pressure or remove the slave cylinder. Drive the car. YES, you can drive the car. Not easy, but can be done.

Basically has to be started in first with the clutch out, or roll started. Shifting is not hard either. See if you still have a slipping problem.

My guess? It will still be there. But there is a possibility it wont.

Jarrett

ra ra rotory

ok, than what other reason would the clutch pedal be so light? there isnt any other explnation that i can think of?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

The pressure that you feel, is the resistance generated by the pressure being taken off of the clutch. My personal opinion, you have something going on other then your hydraulics, BUT you can eliminate that possibility by doing what I said.

Pain in the ***? yes it is, but it would eliminate some of your doubt.

Jarrett

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I am hoping someone will chime in here with an easier way to eliminate the hydraulics from the equation.

HEY! I just thought of something! All you need to do is watch the Slave plunger! Make sure it travels in, then all the way out.


Jarrett

ra ra rotory

ok...so its not the hydrolics...... the fork think releases all the way.. and even has a few millimeters of slack.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Yup..I figured so..

I hate to be the one to tell you this, but the tranny may have to come down..

Jarrett

ra ra rotory

im not worried about taking out the tranny....its been up and down so many times i should be able to do it in a mater of hours... i just want to know what the problem is before i get it all apart.... what could be wrong with the release system?

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

I've yet to see a Clutch Flex Line fail by Internal collapsion. If It Indeed fails, It will do so form where the hose Is connected to the metal fitting.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Well, I must admit I'm lost. Two different clutch assemblys, installed correctly, flywheel cut properly, throw out bearing releasing all the way, and it still slips.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, T-nut. I am a little lost too.

this one is new to me.

Jarrett

ra ra rotory

thats not what i wanted to hear you guys....... haha...... well..... i dont know... i guess ill just leave it for now....

i just really which i could bark those tires.. thanks for the help you guys

Jimmy325i

I think your flywheel is to blame here. If the face has been shaved too many times (aka: too much) then there is not enough tension created when the pressure plate is bolted in.

Pull the flywheel and have the mating surface of the PP measured to the depth of the friction surface. I bet that is off and is preventing the full force of the PP from being utilized.

The only other possible problem I can think of is that you managed to get two bunk PP's. What are the odds of that though?

ra ra rotory

the second clutch i did was only about 3,000 miles after my 1st one (this is the 1st clutch the car has ever had) so the flywheel has only been researfaced once in it life..... so the second time i did the clutch i kinda just rouphed it up with some fine sand paper.... oh.. and had it measerd for depth with was exactly at spec which i believe is .63/1000, or something. so the fly wheel is at spec

theonlygreat

you guys need to solve this problem, the same thing happens in my 89 GTU!!! everybody brainstorm a little harder

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Only thing I can think of, is quit using stock replacement clutches! They are JUNK!! Get a performance clutch!