I am Installing an ACT Heavy Duty Clutch, Street Disk and Xtreme Pressure Plate (holds 75% more than stock) along with a RB Aluminum Flywheel. I will be Installing a stainless steele Flex line as well.

The Clutch doesn't come with a description on break In period. How long does It take to break In the disk? RPM ceiling? etc.

 

i hope mine didnt need breaking in (damn it damn it damn it) mine made some wierd noises and stuff for the few id say 100 miles, but i think it was just stuff getting loosened up.... all the noises stoped now...

 

I just put in the same clutch silverrotor, everyone I know suggested no less than 300, and I am onna be safwe and do 500 I am on 200 now and its getting better... so I suggest at the least you do 300.

- James

 

I have heard the 300 before, i will do at least 300 once the car starts rolling.

 

Stupid question but, by breaking it in u just mean driving easy on it right?

 

I wasn't aware of a clutch break in period either. rx7 Nut, I guess that would mean not revving to 5100rpms and side stepping the clutch.

 

^

 

it is about 400-500 mile that you don't dirve it hard that is what i did with my act and it says on the yellow paper i think too

 

Heh, I know a few people who have bagged on their clutch to "test it" right after they put it in. Funny

 

Usually clutch break-in period should last 500 miles. basically dont take it over 4000rpm, shift very lightly, and just generally take it very easy. Usually when installing all new components, such as flywheel and PP, the break-in time shouldnt take nearly as long, and may not even be necessary. I'd do it anyway just to be safe..

 

Cool. Can't wait.

 

not over 4k? Damn it to hell. I've taken it to redline but I haven't shifted hard into any gear nor launched at all....oh well.

 

Is this going to be a daily driven car? if so you might want to consider getting the heavy duty plate instead of the xtreme one. You will be going through master cylinders and slaves in a coulpe of months. After the 2nd time changing it i figured it was more cost effective swapping the plates than having to do slaves and masters every few months.

 

200-300 miles...reving the car doesn't matter, it's torque that will foul up a break-in. That means absolutely no launches and try to limit all full throttle & run low boost.

 

Break-in: no boost, no full throttle, no revs over 4000 rpm, no dumping the clutch, no speed-shifting, for 500 miles. These 500 miles should be varied rpms, stop and go (IE: city driving). You can't just go hop on the freeway for 250 miles and then drive back home.

 

Yeah I used to have a neat write up on how to effectively break in a new motor. It was kind of interesting.

 

Thanks for the responses...

Interesting. I understand that the new heavy duty components added on are going to put strain on additional peripheral parts but to go through master. slave cylinders every few months?

I replaced the Slave Cylinder already. Probably should do the Master one aswell.

Has anyone else been through multiple part replacements when Installing a performance Clutch?

 

Clutch break in is the worst time ever only surpassed by engine breakin. During this time, you'll see more cars than you ever have trying to race you and you can't do a damned thing.

 

Ha ha. So true.

 

I was 900 miles into my break-in period when a 944 wanted to race me on Broad St. I won.

I didn't break in my clutch. In fact I was extremely hard on it and it's still kickin (40,000 miles). Joe knows about my 5,000 RPM clutch dumps.

 

We might mean to say that we engage the clutch lightly for several hundred engagements, rather than a span of miles or hours driven. If one really wants to gently wear in a clutch-face into the flywheel without waiting for 3 months of driving on the books, lightly and frequently drag the clutch at less than 2k RPM a few seconds. The high-RPM dumps into first gear really smear divets into the pressure plate and flywheel, but that's always going to happen, even with soft organic composites.