Clunk in the rear when I shift...
...what can it be? Diff mount? Transmission mount? I know my front diff mount is not as tight as it should be; I didn't torque the two bolts (you know, THOSE two bolts) because it was bloody impossible to stick a torque wrench in there.
So what could be the problem? Thanks for helping out!
So what could be the problem? Thanks for helping out!
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
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if you have lowered your car the sub frame may be hitting body that is what i had between shifts when i used a rear camber adjustment rod that was set at almost a perfect 0 but had to give a little negative about 0.5 to 1.0 on both rears to stop the clunk
i also had a broken rear diff mount just before that..and the guy that did it did not mount 1 of the link bolts on back correctly.... but it got fixed when 5000 miles later i did a tyre rotation and check the wheel and there was suspention/wheel play
A bad U-joint will usually resonate in the driveshaft and give a "tink" sound as you start out.
A "clunk" of "thump" is usually something shifting position in the suspension.
With a clunk - thunk here
and a tink - clank there
Old McDonald had a 7, E I E I O..
A "clunk" of "thump" is usually something shifting position in the suspension.
With a clunk - thunk here
and a tink - clank there
Old McDonald had a 7, E I E I O..
What about clunking in the rear while in gear and moving? I noticed this on my friend's GXL but it needed a new tranny. Is the rear end shot too or could it be just the tranny jerking?
Last edited by Dan H; Jun 17, 2003 at 11:19 AM.
Originally posted by silverrotor
Where do you get upgraded Diff Mounts? Do they make any or Is It the bushings themselves that are available through aftermarket?
Where do you get upgraded Diff Mounts? Do they make any or Is It the bushings themselves that are available through aftermarket?
http://www.mazdatrix.com/g8.htm
Thanks. Kind of strange that the competition one Is half the price of the stock one! With the absence of the weight/block on the front of the competition Diff Mount, Is that to say It's not needed when Installed?
Last edited by silverrotor; Jun 17, 2003 at 12:09 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 639
Likes: 0
From: cali
In my experience that would be a broken rear subframe. especially common on modded higher HP cars. Solution depends on how it broke, eithe a new subframe. or repair the old one. For any car that will be making substantial power, you should go through the subframe, and gusset all the weak points. While you have it out replace all the bushings with competition pieces. Hope this helps, Carl Byck
With the absence of the weight/block on the front of the competition Diff Mount, priced cheaper than the dealer and am confirmed I do need one, I'll add this to my list when I Install my upcoming Energy Suspension Kit.
Originally posted by jgrts20
sounds like ur rear is gone!! need replacement!!
u can goto ur local junkyard and get a rearend for cheap!!
sounds like ur rear is gone!! need replacement!!
u can goto ur local junkyard and get a rearend for cheap!!
Do you know what you're talking about?BTW does anyone know what that counter weight on the front diff mount is for? Vibration reduction perhaps?
Im getting a rear clunk in my FD. Was told it was the diff mounts, I changed them, still get the same clunk.....
Its when i engage or disengage the throttle, and when shifting at high rpm.....
Its when i engage or disengage the throttle, and when shifting at high rpm.....
Wow... Almost a 9 year revival. And for an FD in the FC technical section.
You're experiencing some sort of differential clunking. I don't have any experience with the FD's. Perhaps there's a pinion snubber thread in the FD technical section...?
You're experiencing some sort of differential clunking. I don't have any experience with the FD's. Perhaps there's a pinion snubber thread in the FD technical section...?






