Ok, background info.

I have all new urethane bushings throughout the car, I have the Racing Beat Sway bar in front, with new RB endlinks. I changed the front shocks to KYB AGX with RB springs. I have new hardened motor mounts in.

I have checked all my bolts and nuts to make sure they are tight. I checked the motor mounts and they are tight.

The clunk comes from both sides and happens when the suspension goes abruptly down. This causes the clunk on both sides of the front end. If I turn it will happen more on the drivers side than on the passenger side but it happens on passenger side as well, just not as loud. I have to assume its due to weight shifting.

Now here is a question that I hope I know the answer to. There is only one metal portion of the motor mount system right?

Tell me if there is supposed to be another round metal portion on the underside of the motor mount where the mount touches the front subframe.

 

Come on people... someone walk out to your FC and take a picture from the drivers side of the passenger side motor mount to the subframe.

 

there 'can' be cups beneath the mounts yes, but they are generally a pain in the *** and not really needed, prolly there to shim the engine a few MM's up in the bay. Chances are however, that you have possibly bad tierods, sway bar bushings, sway bar endlinks, or worn out shocks/springs.

Edit: reread your post on how you have new parts installed in most places I addressed. However if you had a bad mount the engine would vibrate visibly. You have something loose/broken/worn out, and if it happens when you turn then I would check the steering components.

 

if it is due to suspension compression then check out your struts/shocks and make sure nothing is binding.

 

It doesn't happen when I hit a bump that compresses the suspension, more like a bump that allows decompression. You can feel it about where the motor mounts are that is why I was thinking it was motor mounts. I am going to take it to my mechanic, maybe a fresh set of ears and eyes can find it, they tend to do very well with diagnostic and most of the time will not charge me if they know I can fix it myself.