darksider

Does anyone know if i need a negative lock pulse to arm the stock alarm with he remote from the new alarm? Or will it do that automatically when the actuator locks the driver side door? What is better to use, relays or diodes? I am guessing relays since diodes seems to be made for circuit boreds. Thanks

micah

It will automatically arm the stock system when the door lock is actuated. I can't remember which wire it is on the lock switch (its 3 wires, and if I recall correctly, its the blue one you cut).. but you cut it so it doesn't send an UNLOCK signal to the stock alarm when you unlock the door with the aftermarket system.

I'm assuming you mean transistors or relays.. .diodes serve a completely different function than relays... Diodes are a one way "check valve" of sorts, relays/transistors are on/off switches with trigger inputs.

Use relays.. transistors get hot, are super expensive, and aren't as moisture resistant.

darksider

That is only to disarm the stock system completely correct? i am trying to use both. so do i just need the negative unlock pulse? thanks

darksider

EDIT: Wait now i am confused. I should need two relays to install the new actuator. One wire going to a rely tapping into the negative unlock pulse so that the stock system does not go off when i use keyless entry to unlock the car. Do i not need to relay the second wire of the actuator to a lock pulse? Or just connect the wire straight to the new alarm lock system? Thanks

micah

Hmm... now *I* am confused. lol

two relays for the entire lock/unlock.. one relay for lock, one for unlock... Test your alarm.. roll your window down... lock the door, arming the alarm.. shut the door.
Now unlock the door from the inside.. does the alarm go off?
Next test:
With the car unlocked, can you lock/arm the system with the key? I know unlocking disarms it.... but not sure about arming it.
I can't remember and don't have a working car right now to test it.

In my 7, I disabled that switch entirely... which basically disables the entire alarm.

In order to keep the system intact, you'll have to send a pulse to the lock portion of the door switch and an unlock pulse to the unlock wire which comes out of the door handle switches.. Its the microswitch on the lock cylinder.

I haven't done this on a 7 in 7 years or so... so... don't quote me on this.. but the FSM should have all of the right wires labeled. Did I help?

Icemark

Actually the smart way to do it, is again to have it separate for arming.

So that is you want the stock alarm armed you still just lock the door with the door open and then close the door.

That way you can chose if you want the stock alarm armed or just the aftermarket system.

Remember the stock arm wire needs a ground while there is a ground on the door trigger wire for the stock alarm to arm.

As far as disarming, yes just take a couple of diodes off of the unlock neg pulse from the aftermarket system (bar of the diode facing the aftermarket alarm on both the disarm and unlock leads. So nonbar side of the diode facing the disarm wire or the unlock relay, while the bar side of the diodes joined together to the unlock neg pulse of the aftermarket alarm.

micah

Ahh! I forgot about this.... icemark, do you know if unlocking the door from the inside (with the door shut) will set off the alarm? Or does it only go off when you open the door immediately following that...

Icemark

Yes, unlocking the door from the inside will trigger the stock alarm.

I normally wire that up to the aftermarket alarm as well so if someone slim jims the door, it will set off the alarm.

Only the key disarms, hence the need to hook up the unlock pulse from the aftermarket alarm onto the disarm wire from the key.

BTW, usually the easiest spot to get all the alarm wires on a S4 is at the factory alarm.

darksider

Thanks for the replies.