Well recently I discovered the 5th and 6th ports sticking so im thinking thats causing the 3800RPM stumble. Is it possible that since those arent opening that the secondary injectors are making the engine run really rich? how do I clean out the ports so they open up correctly?

 

BTW I tried searching this one and couldn't find anything

 

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/6portfix.htm

 

This won't be causing the 3800rpm stumble. The ports start to open then, they don't just snap open. If the ports are opening too slow or not at all, you'll just be losing power (due to reduced airflow) at higher rpm. Definitely worth cleaning up so they work right.

 

I checked out that site, but after I use the penetrating lubricant what should I use to get it off? Brake cleaner?

 

Damn it, I sprayed some WD40 on the actuators, hoping they would magically unstick but it didnt work. lol.

 

Hey, you said they are on the passenger's side and what not but, what exactly do they look like ? I know they are working but, like someone said earlier, i know they are not opening as fast as my friend's 7... What would make they open faster? his is like a quick increase, mine is like a gradual increase... it's werid..

 

the amount of time it takes for the 6 port to open is almost instantanious. if they are opening too slow u have a some buildup and that does not allow them to function properly.
your car will run alittle richer on top because of teh ports being stuck but there is no real way of getting rid of carbon in there without takign all the manifolds out...this is more pain in the *** then u think...u will need about 7 new gaskets that will cost u some...if u dont wanna deal with this just yet let it be. but my friend has the same car and his bottom end si a LOT better then mine.
my 6 ports were stuck open i am in process of fixing that righ tnow, i have everything appart and waiting on a bunch of gaskets from mazda.
all that wd40 crap might work, but one of the 2 ports on mine was really stuck and i tried forcing it some to open while everything was out of the car, but no luck i tried heating it up, usign wd40, tapping it slightly no budge..so i got a new lower intake manifold with operating 6 ports. that i will be swapping in, i bead blasted the intakes to clean out the 3lbs of carbon buildup i had there, and now i will also be portign the intake manifolds to get some extra power, i also think that the pineappler racing 6 port valves are a good thing to get while u are doing this.

soulpyro if u want pics of the engine bay and where the 6 port is PM me

 

Yea I got the instructions from AgentD on how to go about this. It looks like a lot of steps but they all mostly just involve unbolting things. Do I need the new gaskets if I dont mess mine up when im taking them off?

 

ohkay i have no cats but i do have a air pump... so does that explain why my actuators aren't opening... i have a 87 GXL...

 

if u want everything to sel right then u need new ones, mien were old and crusty somewhat since i was in teh mess already might as well replace them. i wodl recommend u do the same...take your own risk and put old ones back in and find out u will need a new one later....it always happens

 

no it doesnt , your 6 ports are stuck this is very common...

 

hmm.... what did you mean by that last im ?
I mean what if you do have no cats does that make them stick or something ?
lost*

 

on 86-88 if you do not have a cat your ports do not work, they are actuated by back pressure from the converter, that small line that runs off from it.........if you have no cat, ditch your air pump its now useless, if you haev no air pump, ditch the acv, if you ditch the acv, ditch the actuator pods rods, and 5th 6th port sleeves, and if you do all that and port the **** outa your intake in the process you gain your lost low end all back+a noticeable topend difference....

CB

 

i have a 91 vert. i guess i wolnt have that prob. or will i ?

 

86-88 aux actuators do not snap open. They open gradually. Its dependent on back pressure from the exaust. No back pressure from the exaust? Use your head and make them work from the air pump pressure.

 

Ok, I removed and cleaned up the actuator rods in my 88 n/a. In the process I spun the port sleeve round and round, and kept removing and oiling the actuator til everything was real smooth. It all went back together but now I'm wondering if its possible that the rod was restalled the wrong way, ie 180 degrees away from what it's supposed to be. When I turn the lever at idle, I notice a very small change in the engine. How do I check this for sure??

(Not getting the "big kick" at 3500 that everyone else is talking about).

 

The FSM lists the opening RPM for the ports at 3850RPM for the '89-'91's, so if your watching the tach instead of the road You should feel a definite increase at the 4000RPM mark!! To me it feels like a 2-cycle motorcycle comming into the power-band, can't miss it

Maybe some MMO will help...

 

RAYMR... On a 86-88 I don't think you can feel a thing when the actuators come on line. At least I can't on the two na that I have with relatively new rebuilds. You'll never know if you put em in right until you take it apart and take a look. Attached is a jpg of how the small part of the rod that runs crosswise in the sleeve should look when installed. I find it helps to temporarily install the actuators on the manifold prior to offering the manifold up to the engine and sleeves. Doing that keeps the actuating rods from floping around as you stab the sleeves. I think on the later model cars the folk are feeling their vdi coming on line more than the aux actuators. Personal opinion. Could be wrong.

 

Raymr......I have the same concern.

I took my port valves out a few months ago and cleaned the valves and their sleeves all up to make them move freely.

When I was getting ready to put it back together I couldn't remember which way the hole in the end should point. Should the opening inside the sleeves point to 4 o'clock, or 10 o'clock on the front rotor....and 8 o'clock or 2 o'clock on the rear rotor?

I ended up assembling mine so that the front rotor valve hole was at 4 o'clock and the rear rotor valve hole was at 8 o'clock.

I just ordered Bruce Turrentine's video on Removing and Replacing the RX-7 Rotary engine and in the video he shows how they should go back in. The shaft that goes through the outer end of the port valve has a big end and a skinny end on it. The big end of the shaft on the front rotor should be pointing at 4 o'clock, and the big end of the shaft on the rear rotor should be pointing to 8 o'clock.

I hope that the big end of the shaft cooresponds with the side the valve opening is on. If so, I assembed mine correctly.....if not I have some work to do. Does anybody know if this is the case?

 

91 VERT.....Is there a problem with the jpg I installed on the post just above yours???????? Five o'clock for the fwd one and seven o'clock on the rear. Small half(short) towards those positions. Then again, that jpg is for a 86-88 model. Its possible that the positions were changed for 89 and on since the actuators work opposite of the 86-88. Not worth my time to download a newer model factory service manual, but it might be worth your time.

 

Thanks all for the input. Curiousity was killing me so I pulled the rear actuator again and tried turning it 180 degrees, and guess what - it doesn't slide all the way back in. So I can only assume that I had it right the first time. Anyone else?

Also I can see the ports move when I rev the engine. Does that mean clogged main cat? Car has 98K miles and it looks like the original cats.

 

Removing the actuator rod without removing the lower intake to make sure that you have it right is kinda dicey at best.

ESPECIALLY if you suspect you have the sleeve in 180 off.

Its obvious which way they shouldbe pointing anyway..
Just look at the way the actuator arm works, and how far it moves, then place the actuator in a "closed" position, and move the sleeve to ITS "closed" position.

Attach the lower intake with rods installed, then check the rods for movement.

You should hear the sleeves turn and feel the rod-fork strike the sleeve shaft as you just begin a turn.

ALSO.....

Doint just oil the sleeves, and get them moving, REMOVEE and clean them AND the bore in the block.

leave NO carbon.

What happens if you dont?

Then the oil and carbon you leave, COOKS.

.....and sticks your sleeves again.

Also, RE HOSE all the hvaccum lines you removed to get this all done.

Dont even TRY to use the old ones if they are not VERY springy.

They will all fit really loosely and collectivly form a big vacuum leak.

If you have any more questions along the lines of how to do this, I do this "intake refurbish" work ALL THE TIME.

Its the majority of my work on these cars...

The drivers of the vehicles that I have doe this to mostly all see 15-20% increase in milage if they have bad/stuck sleeves.

 

Just get some solenoids to force them mother ******* to open whenever the **** you want. Thats what my frend did to his hit, so much ******* better