Checked compression, right between 85/90 3 times for the rear rotor, and 90/95 for the front. Engine's got 135xxx and I'm only pulling about 8 psi of vacum at idle (.55 bar). So I'm thinking intake leak, which would also explain why I had to set my idle up over 1000 to get it to stick.

So, 3 consistent spikes around 90 for btoh the front and rear, alot of miles on the engine, what do people think, is it going to last me awhile longer? or could it just conk out un-expectedly?

I always change the oil early, keep the boost low (well, reasonable at least), and use the Protek-R in the fuel (along with a lil MMO in the oil) I've done the ATF treatment once about 6 months ago, and figure I'm due soon.

 

what method did u use to check compression. did u just hook up the tester and turn the engine over?

 

Those are good numbers, 105-115 is new.

 

took the tester, it was a cheap one with just a rubber nozzle you shoved into the spark plug hole (made it a little tuogh to read) tour out the check vlave, pulled the fuel and spark fuses, and turned her over a few times

 

I just bought one of those $24 testers.. My car idles on and off.. When i drive it for a while it wants to catch the idle..but when i crank it up and its cold .. it doesn't hold an Idle..i wonder why? so i am gonna do the compression test and see how it goes..
Any Ideas? should I use fuel injection cleaner and clean the Injectors?

 

Do you mean 8" of HG at idle? An engine idling (nonturbo or turbo) will be vacuum between the engine and the intake. It is not possible to have 8psi at idle.

But if it is 8" at idle that is a problem.

How does it run? Was the engine cold or hot?

James

 

I tested 40 to 50 on the front rotor and 80 to 90 on the back rotor.....

Question is...What should i do?
It runs but with little power..but not so bad..

Could this be the cause of my car not holding an IDLE?

 

my compression numbers were kinda low, but i've had a rebuild 5k ago, but i also have a street port.


if you have a street port they idle funny also.