btbaus

iTrader: (3)

the engine is a JDM S5 TII in a NA chassis
9- water thermo sensor
30 split air bypass solenoid valve
33 port air bypass solenoid valve
38 AWS
51 fuel pump resistor relay

im trying to fix the fuel pump issue first. i removed the resistor relay and measured the resistance and it is within spec. page (F2-53 in the FSM). i also meausred the resistance of the circuit opening relay and it is also within spec.

now im a bit confused about the voltage readings i got from the terminals of the circuit opening relay. with the ignition switched to ON, the voltages are at 12v.
with the ignition switched to ST the voltages are at 13.25v except at terminal STA which was at less then 1v and needs to be 12v. (STA leads to ignition switch) . how do i fix this??? please help

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

What problems are you having? Is the car not starting? What year?

Need more info for a better answer from people on here...

Judging from your comment about the low voltage from the ignition switch I want to assume its not starting, but I am wrong a lot....

To fix it, try replacing the relay with a known good one, be sure to reset the ECU to clear any codes thrown after you do this.

To isolate if its a problem with the ignition switch (not starting assumption):

unplug the connector to the fuel pump resistor relay (beneath the driver side dash, to the right of the steering column, white connector, black relay) Jumper the blue/red wires to the blue/green wires to bypass the fuel pump resistor relay.

If it doesnt work then, I would start investigating the igniton switch itself....

As for the other codes:

9- Easy fix. Inspect the sensor per spec to the FSM and the condition of its connector, its behind the waterpump.

30 and 33.... emissions, pshhhh...

38- Accelerated Warmup System. Do you really need it?

satch

iTrader: (1)

On an "S5", the terminal at the Circuit Opening relay that has the 1 volt rather than 12 volts which you speak of gets voltage in the following manner. With key to start the Black/Blue wire at the ignition switch sends voltage to the Starter Cut relay and if that relay is in working order the voltage on the B/L wire then passes onto the Black/Green wire. From there the B/G wire takes the voltage to the Starter Interlock switch which waits for the clutch to be depressed and then the voltage passes from the B/G wire to the Black/Red wire which leads to the Circuit Opening relay and provides that particular wire with the proper voltage.


With respect to the code concerning the Fuel pump resistor relay you should check the pin on the ECU which is connected to the relay, Green/Red wire, and see if that pin is within spec according to the FSM. The relay itself might be in spec but that doesn't mean the ECU is communicating with the relay in the proper manner which could result in the code being thrown.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

sorry.. the car is a 1990......its hard to start.. it wont hold an idle tiil about after about the sixth time cranking it....and even then i wouldent call it an idle. i gotta press the accelerator to keep it running. the fuel pump is ricicously lould...sounds bad... when i take it out for a drive, the car wont rev past 4k rpm.. ill try to get a video up....

then first couple of times i ever started the engine... it started beautifully and didnt have any problems holding an idle...i dont know what happened for it to be acting so crappy.

ill check that out

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

so heres a video..... this is a cold start..... u can hear the fuel pump in the back ground when the engine is not cranking, LOUD! huh?? i didnt have enough memory to continue recording, but after it shot up the engine died..... i tried starting it some more and it took three more tires before i could hold it on with the accelerator pedal. after a minute or so of holding the pedal down it will hold and stumbling idle... like it wants to die.... and sometimes the idle will be at about 1K rpm/..... weird huh... i thinking its a fuel problem since the pump is soooo loud... but i think the coolant temperature switch isnt helping.. what do yall think???

satch

iTrader: (1)

Perhaps you can bypass the Fuel pump resistor relay "just" to see if there is a positive change. To do this remove the plug to this particular relay and jumper the Blue/Red wires to the Blue/Green wires and then see if the fuel pump itself still makes the same troubling sounds. If it does then you probably know what's next on the to do list!

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

these blue/red and blue/green wires are at the circuit opening relay???

satch

iTrader: (1)

Perhaps you can bypass the Fuel pump resistor relay

The Circuit Opening relay is located under the dash while the Fuel pump resistor relay is located near the air box. They're separate items. If you're getting a code related to the resistor relay it is not a good thing to repeatedly try to use the fuel system.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

i understand i just didnt know where these wires were located but im guessing there at the harness where the resistor relay connnects... not at the circuit opening relay

satch

iTrader: (1)

They're located in the plug which connects to that relay.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

alright so i jumper-ed the wires and the pump didn't make that noise.. i tried starting the car and it wouldn't start. the pump wouldn't make that noise when trying to start.

with the fuel pump resistor realy connected, the pump makes the noise before starting, when starting and after starting with the engine off and on.

whats next?? thanks for your help

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

on another note......... im reading through the FSM and both error codes 30 and 33 have to do with the air control valve right??? well JDM engines dont have a connector at the air control valve so do i have to live with the check engine light on??? also error code 38 relates to the AWS which JDM engines dont have....... so even if i fix the water thermosensor and fuel pump resistor realy problems, must i live with the check engine light on?????

satch

iTrader: (1)

When you jumpered the wires did you jumper the Blue/Green wires to the Blue/Red wires or did you jumper the Blue/Green wires to each other and the Blue/Red wires to each other as it makes a difference?

If you jumpered the correct wires can you tell if the pump is actually working normally as opposed to the awful sound it made in the video. If it doesn't make that awful sound then that is good but you need to verify if the pump is working at all. One way is to jumper the two wires in the fuel check connector and turn the key to on. The wires at the resistor relay also need to be jumpered as well and you should be able to hear the sound of fuel passing through the fuel rails on the engine or listen for the sound of the fuel pump at the rear of the car.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

i jumpered the blue/red wire to the blue/green wires....

at the harness there were six wires total and there were two blue/green wires and one blue/red wire. so i jumpered the blue/red wire to each of the blue/green wires ..one at a time...

satch

iTrader: (1)

Reread the 2nd part of my previous post.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

cool ill check it out

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

soooo. with everything hooked up normally , i prime the fuel system and i can hear a click when i connect and disconnect the jumper and i can hear fuel rushing through the system.

when i disconnect the fuel pump resistor relay, jumper the terminals and prime the fuel system i can hear the click but no fuel... the wires im jumping are on the bottom of the connector

satch

iTrader: (1)

With the relay bypassed and the fuel check connector jumpered and the key to on check for voltage on either of the Blue/Green wires at the relay. There should be battery voltage. If there is then turn the key to off and remove the jumper at the fuel check connector and then disconnect the fuel line after the fuel filter as it connects to the hard line and put that fuel line into an empty jug to hopefully catch the fuel that will come out of the hose. Then turn the key to on and then put the jumper back into place and watch to see if fuel does indeed empty into the jug as it should.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

ill go check for voltage right now

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

okay i disconnected the fuel pump resistor relay and jumpered the fuel check connector and turned ignition switch to on and i have no voltage on the bottom three wires(the blue/green wires are on the bottom)... the top three wires do have battery voltage

satch

iTrader: (1)

The plug should have three Blue/Red wires, two Blue/Green wires and one Green/Red wire. Does this not match with yours?

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

my wires match. the three blue/red wires are on top and the rest on the bottom.

again the top three had battery voltage and the bottom three didnt...

satch

iTrader: (1)

With the wires jumpered at both the resistor relay and fuel check connector and key to on you want to check the voltage on the Blue/Green wire at the fuel pump. Don't disconnect the plug at the pump to check for voltage but leave it plugged in. Have the volt meter set up to take the voltage reading then turn the key to on and then take the reading. There should be battery voltage or very close to it.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

all right be right back

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

okay so with everything connected normally and fuel check connector jumped, i get 10.12v at the fuel pump.

i disconnected the fuel pump resistor relay and jumped the wires (either one of the blue/green) and jumpered the fuel check connector.... no voltage at the fuel pump