hey everyone...my problem started happening recently. i own a 1989 N/A vert with 40k original miles. the car is garage kept and i only drive it once in a while. 2 weeks ago, i started her up and then took her around the block, things were good until i felt this power slipping feeling, but am not sure what it was...i looked up and saw the check engine light on. soo i took her straight home which was just about 50 feet from where i was at the time and parked her. i opened the engine and looked for any leaks, but nothing. i start the car again and no more light. so i leave the car alone and tried it yesterday...battery was dead so i jumped it. things seemed good so i take her out to go around the block...i drive about a mile and the check engine light comes on again. could someone help me identify this problem? there are no leaks on my floor or anything.

Fred

 

come on guys...someone must have some insight or advice on this situation?? icemark? Ted? aaroncake? hypnotyz? vosko? anyone? anyone?

 

First result after searching on codes..

http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/codes.html

 

k this is what it flashes:

1flash then 1flash, then flash flash flash flash flash flash flash(7 flashes in a row) then it repeats itself. does that make sense?
sequence seems to be 2 moderate flashes, then 7 quicker flashes, then it repeats the sequence. soo how do i interpret the problems?

Fred

 

sounds like 27 for MOP. DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR!!! that code will put it into fail safe mod. which is why you lost power. without a working oil mettering pump the engine will not last long. and with the code it won't run very well either.

check the wires to it. there should be 2 plugs around the alternator for it. but do not drive the car till it's fixed. and I would put some 2cycle oil in the gas tank for the time being. so you can start/run it for testing ect.

 

so what type of repair must i make? what do i check on? loose wires? replace the MOP? anyone?? dang im worried bigtime now!

 

Relace the OMP or block it off and go premix. You might need a new ECU as well. A buddy of mine had to when his OMP went out. It burned up a transistor in the ECU which put the car into limp or fail safe mode. If the ECU is damaged, and if the vert uses the same ECU as the coupe, I will give you an extra S5 ECU I have.

 

but would my computer show there is a problem with the ECU? what does the OMP look like and where is it located? anyone have pictures? sheesh i feel soo lost.

 

Hang on. I will shoot some pics.

 

Ok, picture did not come out for ****. It is on the front cover of the engine, on the passenger's side of the front. It is right next to the lower radiator hose, and it has 4 clear lines coming from it with oil in it.

 

k what do i do when i locate it?

 

Well, look at the lines. If there is black stuff or no oil, then it is not working. After that, I have no clue. Good luck.

 

Sorry Rico, but incorrect.

The 89-91 ECU HAS to have a connection to a working OMP, in order to not go into limp home mode. He can't just block it off. To date, no one has posted about a way to trick the ECU into thinking there's a working OMP, so he's stuck, gotta replace the OMP.

Unfortunately, there also isn't any way to repair the OMP that I know of. Gonna have to buy a new one.

PaulC

 

but it could also be the wires or ECU. replacing the MOP might not fix it...

 

So, why are there so many people out there saying to remove the omp? Is it the S4 mechanical OMP that can be renoved? Sorry Bad Boy, cuz they cost an arm and a leg for an electric one.

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=14-600B-N350
Here is what Mazdatrix asks for a new OMP. Hope it isn't the problem or you can find a cheap used one. Good luck.

 

If you remove any sensor, usually the ECU is signalled by the lack of resistance, or by a circuit that is open when it is normally closed, or vice versa.
Usually a small resistor, a la radioshack can solve the problem with a light that stays on. Can't remember what size though.... you can do a search under Keith's user name, with resistor(s) as the topic.
Oh, BTW, this is NOT to fix the OMP, but only to prevent the light from staying on after the unit is removed if you are ging premix.

BTW- BadBoy, you can drive the car is you need to, like to the dealership or something if you need, just dump a bottle of 2 cycle oil in the tank, at whatever ratio it specifies on the bottle, and you'll be OK to drive without doing any damage if the OMP isn't working.

 

Bambam..

If you can use a resistor to do this, please post the specifics on the resistor. I, and a lot of other people, would love to know.

What you said is true for most sensors, but apparently not for the OMP.

Rico,

Mechanical OMP (found on 86-88 cars) are a-ok to remove, no electronics to it, the 86-88 ECU's don't even know it's there.

PaulC

 

the 89+ MOP has 9 wires going to it... nobody has made a way to hook them up to prevent limp mode and a light when removed.

the only think they have determined is that it's probably cheaper to buy a haltech then to try to make something using IC's etc

 

can i remove the part from my brothers dead/stripped 90 GTUs, and put it on my 89 vert? is there something i need to be aware of or to do a certain way so that i do not damage the part when removing? does anyone have pics of the part so i dont remove the wrong thing hehe thanks so far guys i really appreciate the support from you all.

Fred

 

Yep.. Remove the 4 banjo bolts holding the OMP lines onto the OMP, then the 3 10mm bolts holding the OMP to the block.

PaulC

 

is that an easy swap? i found the 4 lines that supposed to have oil in them...they dont have any oil in them...but they are like really deep inside, damn stock engine has all kinds of crap in the way. how do i get in there and remove this thing? pics anyone?

 

Where are the wires controling the Limp Home mode?
Here is the MOP with oil lines. What is the black device to the rear with the gray plug in it.



Where is the plug for the stepping motor?

SM3 +B SM1
SM4 +B SM2


Position sensor resistance plug?

E2 Vc Vo

I have intermentent Limp Home Mode.....
There are No engine codes.

 

Care to back up and tell us what the problem is? Did you pull the codes and get MOP?

That entire thing is the MOP (OMP, whatever).. The black snake is the wiring bundle for the OMP.

More info at www.fc3s.org, in the How To section, Manuals, 89-91, if you want to look up which wires do what..

PaulC

 

And again. Run premix until you get it fixed. 1-2 oz's of 2 stroke oil per gallon of gas will prevent any wear during the troubleshooting stage and as insurance even if you fix it.

Charge battery fully. Check alternator output.
Reset ECU and make sure check engine light comes back on and same codes are shown.
Check all connections for corrosion. My MOP issue was corroded connections and dead battery. It needs power to work. And Rx7 alternators suck.
I only drive my car about 6 months out of the year. When the battery is dead and the alternator is straining against it, I get all kinds of issues(airbag light, stereo won't come on, flashing dash, error codes......). So I now let it sit on a charger overnight before the first start coming out of storage.

Used OMPs are sometimes on ebay. Good luck finding a good used one. New is over $1100.

Yes, you could use your brothers OMP. And if you want, you can first swap in his ECU(after charging battery) and verify that his ECU picks up the same error code.