Cheapy chip
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Cheapy chip
So Ive been looking at ecus and looked at the RTEK7. It sounds interesting. Like it may be good after the rebuild. It really is just an upgrade for the stock ecu. the 2.0 sounds a little better. Im afraid of being one of those you get what you pay for people. Any of you have the an Rtek? How has your experience been? Any issues? What are the pros and cons?
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Cool thanks man. As i suspected its more of a fcd and afc combined with a little more to it. I guess it can work till i can save up for something better. Like Halteck or motec. Do you know what kind of porting they are capable of working with best? Is porting ever a factor when it comes to engine management?
Last edited by Linguo415; 11-16-10 at 03:49 PM.
#4
Are you experienced?
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The Haltek and Motec are full stand-alone systems. They can run your toaster if you wire it up correctly.
An RTEK 2.0 is very close to being a stand-alone. The fact that it's plug and play means it's would be ideal to someone just starting with EM systems. It will be less headaches than most of the systems out there and will give you good results.
And no, RETEK 2.0 is nothing close to a FCD or AFC.
An RTEK 2.0 is very close to being a stand-alone. The fact that it's plug and play means it's would be ideal to someone just starting with EM systems. It will be less headaches than most of the systems out there and will give you good results.
And no, RETEK 2.0 is nothing close to a FCD or AFC.
#5
Top Down, Boost Up
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Rtek chipped ECUs are widely used. There's an Rtek sub-section of this forum you can browse for more info: https://www.rx7club.com/forumdisplay.php?f=168.
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The Haltek and Motec are full stand-alone systems. They can run your toaster if you wire it up correctly.
An RTEK 2.0 is very close to being a stand-alone. The fact that it's plug and play means it's would be ideal to someone just starting with EM systems. It will be less headaches than most of the systems out there and will give you good results.
And no, RETEK 2.0 is nothing close to a FCD or AFC.
An RTEK 2.0 is very close to being a stand-alone. The fact that it's plug and play means it's would be ideal to someone just starting with EM systems. It will be less headaches than most of the systems out there and will give you good results.
And no, RETEK 2.0 is nothing close to a FCD or AFC.
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#8
version 2.0
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2.0's come with a tune that will allow it to start and run, the point of going 2.0 or 2.1 is that you can tune the timing and fuel delivery as you would a full stand alone, to a certain degree, meaning you can tune it to your needs.
The rest of the Rtek's do a little different.... the 1.7's and 1.8's adjust the stock ECU's duty cycle of each injector to handle 720cc secondary injectors and (4) 720cc injectors, respectively. These "chips" as well as the lower version Rtek's do other things as well, like cancel the factory fuel cut, allow a flood clear in the s4's, retard timing a little, etc.... However ONLY the 2.x systems allow you to tune the fuel and timing....
With that said, I LOVE my Rtek 1.7..... until I save up the money and go with a full standalone EMS, I am comfortable and happy with what the system provides. I have the stock turbo with 720cc secondaries, emissions removed with a full exhaust and spike at 7psi, and my wideband never reads leaner than low 12's / high 11's at full boost, full throttle.
The rest of the Rtek's do a little different.... the 1.7's and 1.8's adjust the stock ECU's duty cycle of each injector to handle 720cc secondary injectors and (4) 720cc injectors, respectively. These "chips" as well as the lower version Rtek's do other things as well, like cancel the factory fuel cut, allow a flood clear in the s4's, retard timing a little, etc.... However ONLY the 2.x systems allow you to tune the fuel and timing....
With that said, I LOVE my Rtek 1.7..... until I save up the money and go with a full standalone EMS, I am comfortable and happy with what the system provides. I have the stock turbo with 720cc secondaries, emissions removed with a full exhaust and spike at 7psi, and my wideband never reads leaner than low 12's / high 11's at full boost, full throttle.
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2.0's come with a tune that will allow it to start and run, the point of going 2.0 or 2.1 is that you can tune the timing and fuel delivery as you would a full stand alone, to a certain degree, meaning you can tune it to your needs.
The rest of the Rtek's do a little different.... the 1.7's and 1.8's adjust the stock ECU's duty cycle of each injector to handle 720cc secondary injectors and (4) 720cc injectors, respectively. These "chips" as well as the lower version Rtek's do other things as well, like cancel the factory fuel cut, allow a flood clear in the s4's, retard timing a little, etc.... However ONLY the 2.x systems allow you to tune the fuel and timing....
With that said, I LOVE my Rtek 1.7..... until I save up the money and go with a full standalone EMS, I am comfortable and happy with what the system provides. I have the stock turbo with 720cc secondaries, emissions removed with a full exhaust and spike at 7psi, and my wideband never reads leaner than low 12's / high 11's at full boost, full throttle.
The rest of the Rtek's do a little different.... the 1.7's and 1.8's adjust the stock ECU's duty cycle of each injector to handle 720cc secondary injectors and (4) 720cc injectors, respectively. These "chips" as well as the lower version Rtek's do other things as well, like cancel the factory fuel cut, allow a flood clear in the s4's, retard timing a little, etc.... However ONLY the 2.x systems allow you to tune the fuel and timing....
With that said, I LOVE my Rtek 1.7..... until I save up the money and go with a full standalone EMS, I am comfortable and happy with what the system provides. I have the stock turbo with 720cc secondaries, emissions removed with a full exhaust and spike at 7psi, and my wideband never reads leaner than low 12's / high 11's at full boost, full throttle.
#14
Sharp Claws
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i wouldn't call the 2.0/2.1 inexpensive, but it isn't just a chip and it borderlines on cheap used full engine management systems. the 1.x chips are cheap and better than a fuel cut defenser and add safety margins for minor upgrades. they both have their limits, a true full engine management system is something i would say can power up to 1000HP or more with it's flexibility, which Rtek just can't claim. Rtek chips and ECUs are steps above stock and easy to install, but the powerFC is almost as easy to manage and has much more flexibility in tuning limits in comparison between the 2 as both plug n play computers.
#16
rotors excite me
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I have a 2.0 or 2.1, I forget which. I like it, it's made it simple to upgrade with, but it's tedious to tune. I haven't done a whole lot of tuning in part because of that, the other part is it's been tricky getting a good feel correlating my wideband recordings on my laptop and the PDA recordings. Tuning has taken a back seat to so much else taking up my time right now. I agree though that they're good value for what you spend. PDA's are cheap, too.
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The Haltek and Motec are full stand-alone systems. They can run your toaster if you wire it up correctly.
An RTEK 2.0 is very close to being a stand-alone. The fact that it's plug and play means it's would be ideal to someone just starting with EM systems. It will be less headaches than most of the systems out there and will give you good results.
And no, RETEK 2.0 is nothing close to a FCD or AFC.
An RTEK 2.0 is very close to being a stand-alone. The fact that it's plug and play means it's would be ideal to someone just starting with EM systems. It will be less headaches than most of the systems out there and will give you good results.
And no, RETEK 2.0 is nothing close to a FCD or AFC.
#24
Slowpoke
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i did it in an afternoon, i forgot how long but i was chilling in front of the tv while doing it on the couch. Good soldering gun and solder wix, and of course solder. My solder experience is from r/c cars as a kid, so id say decently average skill. Watch videos on youtube on how to un-solder chips.
I say they are pretty good chips , good enough for my car since it will remain a street car imo, I honestly dont ever see myself tuning in need for 400hp. Anything 200-300 range is killer on street for me.
I say they are pretty good chips , good enough for my car since it will remain a street car imo, I honestly dont ever see myself tuning in need for 400hp. Anything 200-300 range is killer on street for me.
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i did it in an afternoon, i forgot how long but i was chilling in front of the tv while doing it on the couch. Good soldering gun and solder wix, and of course solder. My solder experience is from r/c cars as a kid, so id say decently average skill. Watch videos on youtube on how to un-solder chips.
I say they are pretty good chips , good enough for my car since it will remain a street car imo, I honestly dont ever see myself tuning in need for 400hp. Anything 200-300 range is killer on street for me.
I say they are pretty good chips , good enough for my car since it will remain a street car imo, I honestly dont ever see myself tuning in need for 400hp. Anything 200-300 range is killer on street for me.