Originally Posted by Aaron Cake

Plumb the charcoal canister line into the TOP nipple on the oil filler neck. T that line into your PCV/purge valve, which then goes to the intake manifold.

Originally Posted by bumpstart

what is wrong with this pic ????
- aside the two leading ( actually ex trailing ) coils with no leads on for spark test


i bet a LOT of you have something just as sinister





and this is shop work
and today, its 42 degrees, and i have to suss a serious bug with a friends car

guess what happens out this little pipe when it hot???
right next to the frigging coils !!
( i have also been showered by the similar pipe on the 1st gen rx7 , usually with weber or 13bt )

this is the petrol tank vapour pipe that normal goes to the charcoal can
and then through the " pollution gear " normally tossed during the microbug/ FMC install / nest deletion and into the motor

now, a fire bomb waiting to happen, particularly when 42 degrees celsius and FUEL CONDENSATE JETS DIRECTLY AT THE COILS

i have mentioned this before



today, an inadvertent fire when completing the L coil test
( no damage, extinguished in an instant )

how many of you with a loose lead and a similar mod??????

this need a catch can, one way valve, hose and a small rocker cover filter and thought
to RE-ESTABLISH the fuel vapour and crankcase scavenge in reverse direction to the air cleaner


factory stuck that **** there for a good reason
make sure you haven't set yourself up for a nasty freeway problem
( or been set up )

temporarily , this is fixed by a long hose to the road
( get a frigging vac set up catch can all you cheapskates )

Originally Posted by bumpstart

ie
- switching vacuum in front of TB under some conditions draws open purge control valve
this opens to allow vacuum motor side of TB to suck vapour flow from the sump space
this in turn sucks vapour from the tee which is supplied from charcoal trap
AND from the air cleaner if the trap and its fumes prove to be less than positive pressure

the factory is hoping like hell the bottom vent on the charcoal trap is never blocked
else more than just fuel vapour will cycle via the sump space
( the bottom trap outlet is often actually tucked into the chassis rail !!! )
this bottom outlet on occasion may need to drip water / fuel condensations
in the chassis rail its adding to a bit of rust protection ( hopefully )

goodluck rebuilding that with no purge valve or correct switching sources
you need the purge valve
and it needs its correct source front of TB so not to allow this purge air to become part of the idle speed air
( if taken from wrong source it will open at idle and not part throttle with vacuum )
you also need the check valve, else boost may well work its way backwards to recycle to air cleaner



a method using a standard charcoal trap that should pass cursory inspection
BUT IS REVERSED FLOW DIRECTION AND FULL TIME SCAVENGE




now it should not take ANY brains to work out how to mod this so as to work with aftermarket multi feed catch cans
the principle is the same
the idea is that the one ways protect against fumes getting to air via the vac break
( rocker cover filter )
AND OR petrol vapour condensing in the sump space ( unlike factory in some scenarios )
people have to stop thinking of aftermarket catch cans as open vented crud collectors that just fill up
they are intended to be used a MIST SEPERATORS in modern cars to be legal
( and that one of the purposes of the original charcoal trap )
the mist is volatile but insignificant enough ( on a healthy engine ) to not effect octane horribly
( unlike carried over liquids )
and is passed on to the engine to be consumed

legally, it needs to be switched or use a charcoal trap to collect vapours when engine is not running
( another reason the factory uses a purge valve )
that technicality is passed by adding another trap in the line to the air cleaner