Changing rear pads.. WTF?
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Changing rear pads.. WTF?
Okay so it's time to change out the rear pads so I do what I have to do and then I get to the part where the FSM and the Haynes manuel say "to retract the rear pistons use needle nose pliars to turn the piston clockwise until it contracts"
Well Jesus H Christ.. That is a lot harder than it sounds.. I spent 15 min twisting that stupid piston with my full strength and was only able to get it to make half a turn. My pliars kept slipping out and taking little bites out of the caliper metal.. I ended up giving up and just put the old pads back in..
Is there an easier way to do this? How many turns do I have to make to retract it all the way.. Is it supposed to be this hard... man..
Oh an no I didn't have the E-break on either..
Well Jesus H Christ.. That is a lot harder than it sounds.. I spent 15 min twisting that stupid piston with my full strength and was only able to get it to make half a turn. My pliars kept slipping out and taking little bites out of the caliper metal.. I ended up giving up and just put the old pads back in..
Is there an easier way to do this? How many turns do I have to make to retract it all the way.. Is it supposed to be this hard... man..
Oh an no I didn't have the E-break on either..
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Originally posted by KNONFS
I used a open wrench as pliars that more or less fit in there, and then on the close part of the wrench I used a long screwdriver. It will look like a T, turn the screwdriver and voila!
I used a open wrench as pliars that more or less fit in there, and then on the close part of the wrench I used a long screwdriver. It will look like a T, turn the screwdriver and voila!
#4
You ever tried a big c-clamp? I usually stick a wooden shim in there so I'm not tearing up the piston. It's a piece of cake, and I can twist one back in under a minute. It helps if you make sure you're master cylinder has the lid off too
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Re: Changing rear pads.. WTF?
Originally posted by jsotelo
Is there an easier way to do this? How many turns do I have to make to retract it all the way.. Is it supposed to be this hard... man..
Is there an easier way to do this? How many turns do I have to make to retract it all the way.. Is it supposed to be this hard... man..
If it is rusted try turning it in and out a little at a time and it will get easier then bleed the brakes when you are done as it may have some moisture in it.
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#8
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On a sidenote. I had a set of front 4 pot calipers that were stuck. I ended up replacing them. 2 of the 4 pistons on each front calipers were frozen in place. I think that happens when moisture gets in there either due to old fluid or bad seals and then the inside of the caliper begins to rust.
It might be a consideration, to just replace the assembly. Hope your problem is simpler than that though
It might be a consideration, to just replace the assembly. Hope your problem is simpler than that though
#9
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Not to "steal" this thread, but yes, condensation will deveolp within the system and usually attacks the lower pistons on the front calipers. The front calipers can easily be rebuild for @ $25.00 total if you have the time. The rears are a pain because of the internals. Better to buy rebuilt units.
#10
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Originally posted by Crionics
You ever tried a big c-clamp? I usually stick a wooden shim in there so I'm not tearing up the piston. It's a piece of cake, and I can twist one back in under a minute. It helps if you make sure you're master cylinder has the lid off too
You ever tried a big c-clamp? I usually stick a wooden shim in there so I'm not tearing up the piston. It's a piece of cake, and I can twist one back in under a minute. It helps if you make sure you're master cylinder has the lid off too
#11
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Originally posted by Josepi
Why not just buy the tool from mazda that fits right into those holes and has the nice ability to be attached to a ratchet/air tool?
Why not just buy the tool from mazda that fits right into those holes and has the nice ability to be attached to a ratchet/air tool?
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Originally posted by Matt22
needle nose pliers are not good to use.
needle nose pliers are not good to use.
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the piston is frozen. just take a hammer and give it a good tap. then try turning it. should go down. You can use a needle nose pliers. the reason peeps mangle the piston is because its stuck in the bore. when its clean it is very easy to move with a needle nose pliers and it retracts 1/8 to 1/4 turns.
Last edited by Cameljoe; 02-21-03 at 03:11 PM.
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Well I just got home and decided to try this a second time.. I could not find and open end wrech that fit so I got a beefy pair of pliers and started turning.. at first it was a pain but then after about 3/4 of a turn it just eased up and it was almost effortless to crank down.
The second piston was even easier and I could almost turn that one by hand.
THANKS EVERYONE!!
The second piston was even easier and I could almost turn that one by hand.
THANKS EVERYONE!!
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