Changing front fenders -- what hardware will I need?
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Changing front fenders -- what hardware will I need?
In a couple weeks, I'm planning on replacing both L&R front fenders (with new Mazda fenders), and then having the entire car repainted. My original fronts fenders are rusting on the bottom behind the wheel well. These fenders have been on the car since I bought it in April 1990. Therefore, some of the fender attaching hardware may be rusted and break during the removal process. I would like to replace the fenders in a day without having the car held up in the shop. So, I would like to order any necessary attaching hardware (i.e., nuts, bolts, etc.) from Mazda while ordering the fenders. For those that have removed front fenders before: Is there any fender attaching hardware that I should order before attempting to remove the front fenders?
Thanks,
Larry
'90 Mazda RX7 GXL
Thanks,
Larry
'90 Mazda RX7 GXL
#2
King of the Loop
ALl that holds it on is a bunch fo 10mm bolts along the top, 2 on the bottom and one in the door hinge. Then theres 4 (i think) that pass through the bumper, frame, and then fender.
You can bet your *** the 2 on the bottom are gonna have the heads break off and id say atlest a few of the top bolts. I havent had a problem with the front bolts so far and ive done this 4 times. Just make sure you have a good size extentions and I suggest jacking up the car and removing the wheel, it make it alot easier to get to those fender/bumper bolts.
You can bet your *** the 2 on the bottom are gonna have the heads break off and id say atlest a few of the top bolts. I havent had a problem with the front bolts so far and ive done this 4 times. Just make sure you have a good size extentions and I suggest jacking up the car and removing the wheel, it make it alot easier to get to those fender/bumper bolts.
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by BklynRX7
ALl that holds it on is a bunch fo 10mm bolts along the top, 2 on the bottom and one in the door hinge. Then theres 4 (i think) that pass through the bumper, frame, and then fender.
You can bet your *** the 2 on the bottom are gonna have the heads break off and id say atlest a few of the top bolts. I havent had a problem with the front bolts so far and ive done this 4 times. Just make sure you have a good size extentions and I suggest jacking up the car and removing the wheel, it make it alot easier to get to those fender/bumper bolts.
You can bet your *** the 2 on the bottom are gonna have the heads break off and id say atlest a few of the top bolts. I havent had a problem with the front bolts so far and ive done this 4 times. Just make sure you have a good size extentions and I suggest jacking up the car and removing the wheel, it make it alot easier to get to those fender/bumper bolts.
Thanks,
Larry
#4
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if the bottom bolts break off, the threaded end sticks in the chassis and youre fubar'd.
if you get hosed and some of the bolts strip out or break, you can always leave one or two of the top bolts off and use them in other locations. there are a lot of bolts under the hood, omfg.
I think besides the bolts to the front bumper, everything else is a bolt into a threaded hole into the frame.... no nuts or clips.
if you get hosed and some of the bolts strip out or break, you can always leave one or two of the top bolts off and use them in other locations. there are a lot of bolts under the hood, omfg.
I think besides the bolts to the front bumper, everything else is a bolt into a threaded hole into the frame.... no nuts or clips.
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by owen is fat
if the bottom bolts break off, the threaded end sticks in the chassis and youre fubar'd.
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#9
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (4)
OK so when I broke mine. I discovered that they are threaded into an insert that is then welded to frame. I removed the two peiced (the inserts) from my spare car with a chisel and did the same to the important car. If you are careful you can pull them and only leave a hole where the part for the bolt goes in. Clean them up with a dremil to get anyt extra crap off. Put them into the hole in the frame and adhear them. I tried JB weld and had know luck. Then i used gorila glue and it held like a champ. This is only temprorary untill I get them welded in (i cant weld) but i feal that the gorrilla glue would probably hold them for ever.
Any way crawl under there and see what i mean. If you have them drilled already you are better off but this way is actually pretty easy too.
Any way crawl under there and see what i mean. If you have them drilled already you are better off but this way is actually pretty easy too.
#10
i snapped the bottom ones on mine when working on the car - so i just cheated and welded the wing to what was left
if it ever needs to come off - i will worry at that point
best idea is a week before you start - every night spray the nuts/bolt with penetrating fluid ( WD40 or similar ) - you stand a better chance of getting them out like this
stu
if it ever needs to come off - i will worry at that point
best idea is a week before you start - every night spray the nuts/bolt with penetrating fluid ( WD40 or similar ) - you stand a better chance of getting them out like this
stu
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by grinder
best idea is a week before you start - every night spray the nuts/bolt with penetrating fluid ( WD40 or similar ) - you stand a better chance of getting them out like this
stu
Larry
#12
Clean.
iTrader: (1)
You can get replacement bolts at any hardware store. Ace Hardware is actually cheaper than Home Depot for this, since Home Depot charges crazy prices for metric ($0.50-$2/ea.).
www.boltdepot.com is much cheaper than both, but you have to pay shipping. Their stainless bolts are cheaper than the regular bolts sold at most hardware stores; metric stainless prices at Ace and Home Depot are insane. Stainless bolts aren't as strong as regular bolts and they're a little more expensive, but they never get stuck from rust. Bolt strength doesn't matter so much on fenders anyway. www.boltdepot.com also has high strength automotive bolts, screws, other fasteners and various bolt assortments that come in presorted trays. I got a metric stainless assortment for $40 there once. Always having the right nut/bolt/washer was quite helpful. Long story what happened to it, but I'm going to get another when I finish school and have time for my car again.
www.boltdepot.com is much cheaper than both, but you have to pay shipping. Their stainless bolts are cheaper than the regular bolts sold at most hardware stores; metric stainless prices at Ace and Home Depot are insane. Stainless bolts aren't as strong as regular bolts and they're a little more expensive, but they never get stuck from rust. Bolt strength doesn't matter so much on fenders anyway. www.boltdepot.com also has high strength automotive bolts, screws, other fasteners and various bolt assortments that come in presorted trays. I got a metric stainless assortment for $40 there once. Always having the right nut/bolt/washer was quite helpful. Long story what happened to it, but I'm going to get another when I finish school and have time for my car again.
#13
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Have In advance 2 new Mazda bumper clips that hold the bumper to the fenders, b'c you will need new ones after you break the studs coming off them. This Is a guaranteed process when you remove the bumper, especially for those whom live In climate that are proned to rust, moisture build up.
#14
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by silverrotor
Have In advance 2 new Mazda bumper clips that hold the bumper to the fenders, b'c you will need new ones after you break the studs coming off them. This Is a guaranteed process when you remove the bumper, especially for those whom live In climate that are proned to rust, moisture build up.
Larry
#15
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by ericgrau
You can get replacement bolts at any hardware store. Ace Hardware is actually cheaper than Home Depot for this, since Home Depot charges crazy prices for metric ($0.50-$2/ea.).
www.boltdepot.com is much cheaper than both, but you have to pay shipping. Their stainless bolts are cheaper than the regular bolts sold at most hardware stores; metric stainless prices at Ace and Home Depot are insane. Stainless bolts aren't as strong as regular bolts and they're a little more expensive, but they never get stuck from rust. Bolt strength doesn't matter so much on fenders anyway. www.boltdepot.com also has high strength automotive bolts, screws, other fasteners and various bolt assortments that come in presorted trays. I got a metric stainless assortment for $40 there once. Always having the right nut/bolt/washer was quite helpful. Long story what happened to it, but I'm going to get another when I finish school and have time for my car again.
www.boltdepot.com is much cheaper than both, but you have to pay shipping. Their stainless bolts are cheaper than the regular bolts sold at most hardware stores; metric stainless prices at Ace and Home Depot are insane. Stainless bolts aren't as strong as regular bolts and they're a little more expensive, but they never get stuck from rust. Bolt strength doesn't matter so much on fenders anyway. www.boltdepot.com also has high strength automotive bolts, screws, other fasteners and various bolt assortments that come in presorted trays. I got a metric stainless assortment for $40 there once. Always having the right nut/bolt/washer was quite helpful. Long story what happened to it, but I'm going to get another when I finish school and have time for my car again.
Larry