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changed fuel pump filter and the fuel filter ..now no start

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Old 01-13-03, 11:39 AM
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changed fuel pump filter and the fuel filter ..now no start

i replaced the fuel pump filter and it didnt want to start . then i changed the fuel filter. still no start .... i took out the changed fuel pump filter and put the old one back just to see if that was it...well it didnt work.. i tried pull starting it and it didnt want to stay on.. accelerator to the floor would let it idle at 1000rpm. and would go no further..what could be wrong? getting no fuel? too much fuel?
jack
Old 01-13-03, 11:45 AM
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Disconnect the line to the fuel rail and switch on for a second - see if you're getting flow..
Old 01-13-03, 11:50 AM
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Welllllll. First I'd see if the fuel lines got crossed either at the pump or at the where the fuel lines connect to the engine.

Do this. Find the hose that comes from the filter(NOT THEONE IN THE FUEL TANK) up front and goes to the engine. Take that hose off the metal line. Put it in a container.

Near the right front strut tower, not far from the boost/pressure sensor, is a yellow, two socket connector. Jumper the sockets with bare piece of wire.

Now turn the key to ON, NOT START. Turn it to ON.

The fuel pump should be heard to work and fuel should flow at 70 psi out of the hose you took off earlier. The hose from the fuel filter.

So.....if the fuel pump is not heard, you have a plug off back there.

If the pump is heard.....then you have the hoses on backwards or the fuel filter up front on backwards.

Or.?????????? No fuel in the tank????
Old 01-13-03, 12:28 PM
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there is about a 1/4 tank inside.... also when i took the fuel pump out to change to the old filter..... i noticed that only one line had pressure when i took it off.. the other line going to the pump had no fuel coming out when i disconnected the line...... does that maybe have n e thing to do with it ? ohh and the fuel filter ...... i think i put it on right.... the "IN" side is on the under side of the fuel line... the "OUT" side of the filter is connected to the top fuel line comming from the engine.... is that right ?
jack
Old 01-13-03, 12:43 PM
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Yeah it sounds line you did right on the filter. Only one line would have had pressure in the tank.

I'd go ahead and take the hose off that goes from the filter to the FRONT hardline that it connects to on the engine.

Put it in a container. Jumper that YELLOW connector near the inboard front side of the front strut tower. Then turn the key to ON (not start). The fuel pump will run if that is done. Fuel should flow into the container.

We ought to leave it at that and find out what happens.

You might have someone else turn the key to on as you hold the hose in the container.
Old 01-13-03, 12:50 PM
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Disconnect the line to the fuel rail and switch on for a second - see if you're getting flow..

Yeah! What SURESHOT said. Sorry, I was writing when you posted that.
Old 01-13-03, 12:56 PM
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HAILERS

 
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I read that post again. I'd say too little fuel. I can use my fuel cut switch to kill the fuel pump, but keep the engine running for quite a while by just fiddeling with the pedal. So I say little to no fuel pressure, almost like the pressure and return lines somehow got crossed somewhere.
Old 01-13-03, 01:09 PM
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U THINK MAYBE A ( even though its brand new) a clogged fuel filter??
Old 01-13-03, 01:14 PM
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Its brand new. Shouldn't be clogged.......unless they stuck some stopper in it when they made it and the stopper was supposed to be pulled out prior to installation. That's a reach though.

If fuel does not flow out the hose with the hose disconnected, when the pump is running, then its possible the two hose at the fuel pump are crossed. I just looked at mine and it seems possible to do that, although one seems a touch shorter than the other.

Then again you had a fuel problem to begin with. Maybe the pumps a goin.
Old 01-13-03, 01:19 PM
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I would check the hoses to make sure there in the right place. But you are going to need to pressurize the fuel system because you drained it when you replaced the filter. It is a 2-connector plug near the passenger side strut top, blah blah blah. Do a search you should only find about a million posts about this.
Old 01-13-03, 01:23 PM
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THE SHOrter line on the fuel pump is closer to the passenger side right ?
Old 01-13-03, 05:04 PM
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Rotary Racer......made a very good point. The fuel pump will turn on when the key is held to START, but once you release the key to just ON, the fuel pump turns off, UNLESS the engine is running, then it will continue to run as long as the micro switch in the afm is *making*.

So what Mazda did, is give you a maintanence connector. That is the yellow one with two sockets I mentioned. If that one is jumpered with a piece of wire, and the key is to the ON position, the pump will run without the engine running or the key being held to START.

Yeah. The shorter is toward the passenger side.

You might just jumper the yellow connector, turn the key to ON, and listen for the fuel pump to see if its running. Let it run for a couple of minutes, then try to start the car.

The only thing wrong with that idea is that you said the engine ran at idle for some period. Even if it idled for a minute, thats more than enough time for the fuel pump to get up to speed and pressure the fuel lines.
Old 01-14-03, 10:31 AM
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THANKS GUYS ... I GOT IT RUNNING ... NOW I think the starter died on me...
Old 01-14-03, 10:38 AM
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How bad did it die???? Just a click, click on trying to start or a slow grunt, grunt when trying to start??
Old 01-14-03, 11:02 AM
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Originally posted by HAILERS
How bad did it die???? Just a click, click on trying to start or a slow grunt, grunt when trying to start??
sometimes it click clicks.. and sometimes i get nothing until i pull my foot off the clutch pedal and re-press it again and itll most of the time try to start after that ... but it is slow grunting reeeeeeer reeeeeer reeeerrrr.. it was slow last night but this morning it is super slow... does not turn over fast enough to start IMO.... could i have a bad starter and clutch sensor... ( i used that word "clutch sensor" for lack there of a better word.) the sensor that sends info sating the clutch is down... and if u unplug it u can turn the car on w/o using the clutch ... ( i was just explaining what i thought "clutch sensor" was.. )
thanks
jack
Old 01-14-03, 11:13 AM
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check your battery

Your battery needs probably a charge

hugues -
Old 01-14-03, 11:19 AM
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Yes, thats your problem, dead battery.


So did cleaning the new filter help any?
Old 01-14-03, 11:23 AM
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THANKS GUYS ... I GOT IT RUNNING
So what was the actual problem, 7thgear ???
What's the fix ???

Hugues
Old 01-14-03, 11:23 AM
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levi .. i didnt drive it much .... hey well guys it is a good point that u guys made about the battery but its not.. its got a full charge..the battery does not make my ignition go click click and then ill turn the key on again and no sound.....then let my foot off my clutch pedal and the try the ignition again and itll turn the engine over... i made sure while i did drive my car for that short period of time that i revved it high enough to chargewr the battery ... so if n e one has n e other theories please tell me... because im going to try and take it to MAZTECH ...
jack
Old 01-14-03, 11:29 AM
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hmmm,

maybe check battery wire to starter, wire from solenoid to starter motor, battery grounds, etc
basically the whole starting system circuit

have your starter tested at autozone


hugues -
Old 01-14-03, 02:13 PM
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That is called a INTERLOCK switch for the clutch. You just make and break the circuit from the key to the starter with it.

The slow turning has zero to do with that switch. The slow turning is either a low/dying battery or a bad ground connection on the starters long attach bolt.

Once the car starts make sure the alternator is showing a charge on its meter. Should be over the 12v line. Should be about 13/14 volts.

Don't get me wrong about the clutch switch though. I've got a turboii out there that on occasion does the click, click ***** and I can guarantee you I have excellent grounds and battery cable connections. Plus I have bypassed the interlock switch for convienience(sp,I think).

So make sure the alt is charging, the ground on the starter is tight, the battery posts are clean and tight. Sorta what everyone above already said.

Then again......the starter could be a goin out That's why on a lot of posts on cars that don't start good I recommend using a shot of starter fluid. Keeps the starters from wearing out so quick.
Old 01-14-03, 04:51 PM
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levi .. i didnt drive it much .... hey well guys it is a good point that u guys made about the battery but its not.. its got a full charge..the battery does not make my ignition go click click and then ill turn the key on again and no sound.....then let my foot off my clutch pedal and the try the ignition again and itll turn the engine over... i made sure while i did drive my car for that short period of time that i revved it high enough to chargewr the battery ... so if n e one has n e other theories please tell me... because im going to try and take it to MAZTECH ...
jack
Old 01-14-03, 04:54 PM
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sorry my last post was a late one .... i typed it then got offline and it sent just now when i got back on ...
thanks guys ..... i took it into the shop i will reply with what was wrong...
jack
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