What I am looking at is the high flow pump and the FPR not returning the fuel as it warms up the WT sensor tells the ECU to cut fuel deliver from around the ranges as 45ms all the way down to 7ms. The cold motor requires more fuel and if the FPR was stuck it is getting way t much fuel but a cold motor will tolerate much more then a motor that needs -10ms of fuel.

 

This falure mode would be gradual, not an on off switch the poster is describing.

 

He is describing a gradual flooding process till stall then motor is flooded he is not describing a on off issue.

 

Next time you start from cold, watch the water temperature. Somewhere around 120 F (maybe a little less), the fuel being delivered changes to a leaner mixture.

Anybody with a wideband can see this happen after starting from cold and driving down the street. He'll see AFR in the 11-12afr(rich), and when the water temp reaches around 120F the AFR will change to the 13-14 range (leaner)

 

No, its not gradual at all, its very sudded. It DOESNT stall, it just runs terribly rough and it has no power whatsoever.

It seems to me that instead of leaning out at that temperature, its making it way too rich or something... Then again, if it was rich, you'd think it would smooth out if you tried to rev it... I dont know exactly- i suppose thats why i titled this thread as i did.

When this happens, the car is NOT DRIVEABLE, its not just a slight miscalculation of fuel... I thought i might add that.

 

You are still describing a gradual problem be more specific.

 

I would recommend plugging a wide band Oxygen sensor into the exhaust and monitoring which way the mixture is going to cause the failure (or if it even is the mixture.) I would not completely discount a damaged ECU, as electronics are about the only thing on a car that don't work better once warmed up. As for the compression, that is not the problem, as the engine warms up, everything expands together and there is less blowby. Also, blow-by does not have much effect at high engine speeds.

If the car runs ok sometimes and not others, it is difficult to figure the problem out without carefully observing exactly what variable changes to cause the failure. I would recommend taking as much data as possible (IE: Timing light inside cab from leading coil, Wide-band O2 sensor in exhaust, Fuel pressure, etc.)

 

Its hard to describe... Okay, the car is running completely normal, it starts fine, drives fine, and it revs normally and there is no smoke or rich smell or anything out of the ordinary. Then, completely suddenly, with no provocation (just normal driving), something changes that causes it to screw up. If i'm close to a parking lot, i can manage to drive it in to get out of traffic, but its hard to get the car to move with that little amount of power and no ability to rev.

 

That brings up a good point, i never even thought of the ignition, but if it wasnt getting spark in one rotor, maybe that could cause this... I dont have a wideband, but I'll get a fuel pressure guage on there soon and I'll try out the timing light.

 

*ahem* You should read all the posts better. I gave the idea about maybe it's ignition on page two, I think. Your leading (or trailing) coil pack may be failing. This MAY cause the motor to flood out. Remember, this is just an idea, not necessarily fact.

 

The car will run fine if one of the packs fail but will not if one on each pack fail. Shoot I drove like a week on just T coil pack at 8psi.

 

Trailing coils if gone south will cause the tach to not work, PLUS the car will run just as normal as can be without trail coils working. No noticable difference at all.

Look for the LEAD coil wires being good/bad. Maybe swap trail for leads if they can reach.

 

It would make sense to me if the problem turned out to be a rotor getting entirely no spark because it only makes enough power to keep itself turning, like i presume it would if it were running on one rotor.

If both trailing AND leading have to be failing on a rotor, it doesnt sound very likely though. I'm working on another car right now, so I'll get back on the 7 in a little while.