asiandude15

iTrader: (6)

How do I determine if my CAS is dead on center. I have a rebuilt motor and it won't start and backfires after a while of cranking. I was told maybe my CAS is not dead on center and my spark plugs are not firiing correctly.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Line up the front pulley to the first Mark.
take the Cas out and locate the marks on the Botton gear.Line them up.With the Cas cover off,restab the cas and make sure the gear goes in without moving.you will need to hold the Inner parts of the Cas and hold the outer casing when stabbing.
Once that is done your timing should be Pretty close.adjustment can be made by moving the outer part of the Cas to bring it to Spec.

asiandude15

iTrader: (6)

Well I'm gonn have a bit of a problem on that part was I bought a pulley that was painted over and I have no idea where that mark is suppsed to be. I just found my Haynes manual. LOL any help of how to align the ecc pulley.

Johny zoom

iTrader: (5)

The keyway is at approxamatly at 9 o clock, Do a serch for hailers TDC thats how I did my rew

Johny

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

I'm almost positive that there is a 2 slight indentations where the marks should be. Spin the pulley slowly and look closely as it goes by. You should see them.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem w/ the pulley, so I took some yellow and red crayons (always around when you have kids) and rubbed them in the indentations of the pulley and then cleaned around so the only crayon left was in the marks.

BTW, you don't have to remove the CAS cover, but people do it because as you insert the CAS into the front cover, the gear sometimes turns enough to mess things up. By having the cover removed, you can hold the shaft from turning. Just FYI. I'm gonna look for a picture with the gear and CAS housing lined up.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Here we go...couldn't find the picture I was looking for (maybe I imagined it).

I've attached two related ones.

I also made a drawing which probably qualifies as one of the worst paint brush drawings made by an adult without physical/mental disabilities (I think).

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

note that the indentation on the gear has nothing to do with the roll pin going through nearby (I think it holds the gear assembly to the shaft).

asiandude15

iTrader: (6)

Alright thank you and I will be doing that later today when I get home. Time to get my car running.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

there is a little plastic cover thing in the CAS cover. when the CAS is right, one of the two big CAS teeth will be just about dead center in the CAS cover hole.

asiandude15

iTrader: (6)

I found the indentations and marked them and turned the ecc shaft manually (via a breaker bar and a socket using the big bolt that holds the pulley in place, you know what I mean LOL) anyways I aligned it to the first indentation then pulled the CAS and put it back (I held the teeth on top so it didn't rotate when I put it back). The front pulley wasn't even close to the timing mark and the CAS was way rotated when it was put back before. The marks weren't even close to matching! I think this may be the cause why my new motor won't start, it back fires and the fuel isn't being burned properly. I will try to start it later and see how it goes.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

are you positive that the crank pulley and crank hub (the hub where the big bolt goes through) are from the same engine? if they aren't, your timing marks will not be accurate and you could be risking a blown motor.

asiandude15

iTrader: (6)

They are from the same motor, the original parts....

asiandude15

iTrader: (6)

I forgot to write I decided to use the original pulley, the ugly one that isn' painted. So that is why I said they are the original parts.

asiandude15

iTrader: (6)

I got it running!!!! thanks for all the help! Couldn't have done it without this thread!