I am in need of some serious help! My turbo II is carbuereted and I am looking for a company or some information that will help me tune the carb so my car runs right.
Mods: street port,3"d/p, turbonetics t04 hybrid, trust fmic, Holley fuel pump, Holley 650cfm carb, stage 4 clutch, c's short throw,and many more! PLEASE HELP!

 

Paul Yaw of Yaw Power is probably your best bet. Do some googling.

Brandon

 

Do you know anyone with a carbed TII?

 

i have never heard of one on carbed FBs

 

Doh let me rephrase I have only heard of Carbed FBs and older

 

Nice! Im going with the same setup this winter! well more or less... custom built engine, s5 turbo, holley 650cfm carb, bg280 fuel pump and so on... Lemme know how yours turns out/runs! I wanna know how mine is gonna be

Lates

 

My cousin has a carb setup in his FC....his is a delorto setup.....basically carbs r somewhat trial and error....ie...u drive it....turn a screw or 2 and drive it again. Old school tunin, hey sometimes its better a lot less headaches to go through.

 

Not that I'm biased, but some aviation mechanics have a lot of experience with turbocharged carb engines, and would probably be able to help you the most. Paul Yaw and Atkins Rotary are included in this group, but here is one closer to you:
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/custom_mazda_engines.html

Car-Tech (Corky Bell) used to make turbo kits with carbs back in the day. Does this look familiar?
http://www.nellump.net/peri/rotaryrckt/transplant.html

 

I am doing the swap at the moment. I have a friend who has a carbureted TII, he ran 12:72. The same mechanic that did my friend's car will do the settings for me, this guy is GOOD. He made our drag car run 10:80 on a 12A engine (Back then it was still streetable) when we first started years ago with the drag car. Once I'm done I'll let you know the jet #'s... About two more weeks untill I get the aeromotive fpr. I was also lucky enough to find a local mazda speed shop that sells Atkins apex seals for $200.00 a set.

 

what is the advantage of a carbed vs. fuel injected TII? I know carbed are basically much simpler to work on. But I got so sick of having a carbed car (85 GSL), they run so rough when cold

 

Well, I am doing it because my ecu is fried and I will be using carb untill I have enough for Microrech or Haltech. Since I live in Puerto Rico I don't have to worry about cold weather.

 

The only advantages of a carb over fuel injection come if you are at WOT all the time.

IMO: If the vehicle is an every day driver, or anything other than a drag car; the fuel injection set up is vastly superior.

 

Not if your ecu gets fried LOL

 

Well then don't fry your ECU. Or pick up a used one on eBay for $30...

 

1987 automatic tranny ecu... Not very easy to find at e-bay... Plus it will do wonders for my turbo converted n/a...

 

http://personal.riverusers.com/~yawpower/

Excellent Tech articales.

 

The engine ECU is the same automatic or manual. There is a seperate dedicated transmisson ECU.

I agree with Aaron... its only $20-$30 for a working used one. To switch to carb because of a smoked ECU is the lamest excuse I have ever heard.

 

Im going with carbed because a) it costs sooooooooo much less than going stand alone and b) no one has it! so...

 

Lame my ***... I know I will go a hell of a lot faster and a hell of a lot more boosted with a carb and a lot less money than you will ever go with stock ecu and an safc. and all that pretty and fancy good for nothing expensive ****. I'm sorry if you do not feel the same way but it is not an excuse, specially if an experienced mechanic will be doing my settings. I mean his RX-3 runs 8:67 yes carbureted, he knows carbs and efi. He asked me: Do you wanna run fast or do you just want a 13.5 fancy looking POS? Whenever I get the Haltech then will be the only time I will go back to efi. In the meantime you keep ******* around with bad TPS, 3,800 rpm hesitation and all that bs...

 

Think you missed my earlier post on carbs... where I said they are fine for drag cars.

But your the one who said the reason you were switching was because you blew an ECU... And yes it would be lame to swap out a carb and the set up for it because of a $30 at the most part.

Now if you are building a Drag car and that is what is important to you... by all means go for it if you are convinced that is the way to go. If makes you feel better; I am sure your drag car will be much faster than my street car.

And I have never messed with either my TPS or trying to get rid of the 3800 RPM hesitation, because I replaced all my engine grounds back when I bought the car...(like anyone thinks the engine grounds are still good after 10 years).

 

a) A budget stand-alone is $1,000-1,500. Depending on the model, it may also include a boost controller, turbo timer, rev limiter, AFR readout, boost readout, datalogging, electric fan controller, or other useful functions. Unless you have a bunch of junkyard parts in your garage, I think that the EMS is a much better option, especially considering the price of a new turbo-ready carb, carb manifold, carb air intake, block-off plates, distributor, FPR, etc.
b) As far as I know, no one has bias-ply tires, wooden wagon wheels, leaf springs, or crank starters on their RX-7. I guess we know your next mods now.

 

 

I already HAVE those on my car!! hehe

Seriously tho... I got a RB intake manifold, RB filter, Holley 650cfm carb, and a BG280 Electric fuel pump for $1000CDN! And the intake and carb are already setup for blowthrough cause the guy I got it off of was going to use it for just that.
I have access to basically everything that I need to do the conversion (starting with an N/A engine) and all the work is being done by myself and friends, so... for me to finish this project, it may cost me another $1500-2000 for all the lil things needed...

So you can go suck a duck

 

Hehehe, you should make a Photoshop picture.

Personally, I'm paranoid, and would still look over the carb to make sure that all the plugs were epoxied or pinned, all the gaskets were stable, and I would especially make sure that the carb didn't have those crummy hollow brass floats that will get crushed by the boost. The last thing you want is to have fuel shoot all over your hot engine. Here is an intersting link which shows some carb basics for running boost.
http://www.vs57.com/carb.htm

The BG280 is a short-duration drag race fuel pump. Don't you think that a more streetable pump would be better? BTW, you know that you need a rising-rate fuel pressure regulator to keep the boost from backing-up the fuel, right? Also, since you don't have the TII engine, you will need to obtain a compressor bypass valve to keep the float bowl happy.

It's nice to see that some people understand hotrod reality.

 

No worries... we are taking the carb apart and are gonna rebuild it anyways. Plus we are gonna make sure that we have the right floats (the solid plastic ones or whatever...nitrate or some crap )

That is quite a lot of stuff on carbs purhaps one day at school when Im bored of the teacher I will read it

Whats wrong with the BG280? why cant it be driven on the street? or should I say, why would it not be a good streetable fuel pump?
Yeah, I already have a line on the rising-rate fpr. I dont remember my guy ever sayin anything aboot a compressor bypass valve... maybe he forgot to mention it or maybe Im an idiot... Either way, Ill look in to it, thanks