carbon build up on apex seals
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carbon build up on apex seals
we have ran atf fluid threw the intake , car wont turn over , we have spark , we have fuel everhintngs working fine , the car got flooded when doing the dyno runs now wont start. the second rotor still has carbon build up on it, anythoughts on how to get that baby to free up , dam thing wonts to turn over , we are just about there , need anybodys help. thanks rx7fromcal
#4
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sure, leave it as long as you like and the seals will rot, might free up the apex seal but you gave up the coolant seals in the process.
did you look at the edge of the seals on that rotor with a light and mirror through the spark plug holes?
why do i ask? it is easy to pop an apex seal while tuning and your "mechanic" is probably
leading you on because he doesn't want you to find out that the motor is blown just yet. what were your compression numbers? if you have low compression on all 3 apex's then i would be willing to bet the seals are all toasted.
did you look at the edge of the seals on that rotor with a light and mirror through the spark plug holes?
why do i ask? it is easy to pop an apex seal while tuning and your "mechanic" is probably
leading you on because he doesn't want you to find out that the motor is blown just yet. what were your compression numbers? if you have low compression on all 3 apex's then i would be willing to bet the seals are all toasted.
#5
no matter how flooded a car is, if you push start it, it will start. That is assuming of course that your motor is not blown. So I suggest you push start it, or do a comp. test. as was said before, its highly unlikely your car flooded and now it doesnt start after a tuning session. The most probable scenario, is that he blew your motor and now you need a rebuild.
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Originally Posted by Karack
sure, leave it as long as you like and the seals will rot, might free up the apex seal but you gave up the coolant seals in the process.
did you look at the edge of the seals on that rotor with a light and mirror through the spark plug holes?
why do i ask? it is easy to pop an apex seal while tuning and your "mechanic" is probably
leading you on because he doesn't want you to find out that the motor is blown just yet. what were your compression numbers? if you have low compression on all 3 apex's then i would be willing to bet the seals are all toasted.
did you look at the edge of the seals on that rotor with a light and mirror through the spark plug holes?
why do i ask? it is easy to pop an apex seal while tuning and your "mechanic" is probably
leading you on because he doesn't want you to find out that the motor is blown just yet. what were your compression numbers? if you have low compression on all 3 apex's then i would be willing to bet the seals are all toasted.
As far as the ATF eating coolant seals debate, has anyone proven this yet? I have some used coolant seals I'd be willing to soak in ATF for say a week, and see what it does, I'm kind of curious.
My friend got a free TII with 185k miles on it, carbon locked. **** wouldn't even budge at all! He started by putting ATF in for a couple days, just letting it sit, then turned the engine over a little, which it finally did, then put more into the next chamber, let it sit overnight, turned the engine a little, did it again, and so on for about a week and the engine was turning a lot smoother after that. He then went to fire it up and bingo, it fired up and ran. It still runs today though it has low compression and a lot of other issues, but what do you expect for a previously carbon locked 185k original mile turbo engine
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well like dub said ive been doing the atf thing and it wonts to start, but i think taking it out and push starting will be my next thing. thanks everyone for your thoughts.
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#10
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his engine isn't carbon locked to where it won't rotate freely though dDub, it is rotating faster than normal more than likely meaning it has low compression and not building enough to fire.
heh, for the seal test. i'll buy ya lunch when i visit Wa if i am wrong...
put one seal in a can of engine oil and the other in ATF. my best guess is the teflon skirts will disintegrate completely or swell to enormous proportions though the silicone inner seal may still hold it's shape. the ATF can also compromise the seal formed between the silicone and the aluminum housing causing compression to be lost and eventual burnout of the compression seal. not to mention what it could do to the side seal o-rings...
heh, for the seal test. i'll buy ya lunch when i visit Wa if i am wrong...
put one seal in a can of engine oil and the other in ATF. my best guess is the teflon skirts will disintegrate completely or swell to enormous proportions though the silicone inner seal may still hold it's shape. the ATF can also compromise the seal formed between the silicone and the aluminum housing causing compression to be lost and eventual burnout of the compression seal. not to mention what it could do to the side seal o-rings...
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 06-05-05 at 11:23 PM.
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^^
Didn't know it was rotating, my bad
Haha, I'll soak some coolant seals in ATF and see what happens, it should be interesting
If anything, I'm just curious myself.
Didn't know it was rotating, my bad
Haha, I'll soak some coolant seals in ATF and see what happens, it should be interesting
If anything, I'm just curious myself.
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Push Starting
Will push the bitch this morning, im sure hoping this dam thing starts, lol and maybe it could be the doors, as someone said in the thread , lol anyways will keep ya posted. thanks for all of your help , it really means a lot to me... thanks again.
#14
did you try and run the supercharger off stock fuel and old leaky injectors that stick shut some times. If so theirs your answer. I am betting you popped a apex seal rear rotor, starved from fuel. Good thing is now you can rebuild and street port it as far as you can go. Damn scratch that you have a 89 na block. You might look into having Kevin Landers build you a hybrid motor built with s4 stuff so you can port it and get lower comp rotors.
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"and street port it as far as you can go" is not always the best idea. It's about efficiency, not size. I learned that over time, used to think the bigger the better, but sadly I was wrong. Yes a big streetport will be an improvement over stock, but there might be something better that is smaller or different style.
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Wahoooooo , The ****** Turned Over, Hooked Up Behind My Buddys Car Took For A Tow , It Fired Up, He Also Found The Dam Boost And Vacum Were Hooked Up Backwards , Plus Some Fuel Presure Regulator Stuff All Mess Up , Man I Tell Ya No Wonder That Dam Supercharger Hasnt Ran Well Since Its Been Put In. Will Keep You All Posted , By The Way For Thoses Of You Giving Advice On This Thread , Thank You Very Much You All Have Been A Big Help. Rx7fromcal
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Well we got it all put back together, it starts, but dam hard , we are smelling raw fuel, from the primarys when starting , what we came to was one of the injectors might be staying open to much on the starts, so here we go again , taking the intake off and getting thoses dam things checked out . will keep ya posted
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well , one prob was the mapecu being hooked up to the stock ecu, so we took off the map ecu , and im selling that because , since i put that thing on its been nothing but probs. heres the kicker, since all the **** i have on isnt condusive to cal emmisions , lol we put a carb on the dam thing, jimmy riged a tb linkage took it out for a spin, now we shall put the finale touches on it monday, hooked up a holly 600 4 barrel, with a holly hp fuel preasure regulator, so this baby should do pretty good sitting on top of that supercharger , im keeping my fingers crossed!!!!
Last edited by RX7FROMCAL; 06-12-05 at 10:46 AM.
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