2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Carb an FC S5 Vert?

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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 05:01 PM
  #26  
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Sell your vert and buy a TII if you want a fast car. I don't see any point in modding an N/A vert because it's always gonna be slow. Spend $5000 on a MoTeC EMS and it'll still be slow.
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 05:55 PM
  #27  
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You may not see the point...i do. This is a fun car for me. If i wanted the turbo i would've bought the turbo from the get go.
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 10:10 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
Carb is still cheaper for good performance. Its all about money. If I had unlimited funds then I'd be going standalone with independants.. but I don't, so at a time a few weeks ago, I was checking out everything there was to do with carbs, and the IDA webers seemed to be the most promising.
If I were to buy an IDA setup (new), and include the cost of my standalone, i'd still be cheaper than 90% of your carb setups. As for the 'cheaper and good performance', you could turbo the thing and make more power than a carb would ever do, for less than what you quoted above.
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 04:46 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Parastie
If you disabled the VDI and removed the 5th and 6th ports you could get nearly the same gain for far less money.
Disabling the VDI would not give you any gains at all, only losses. Claiming it does shows you don't understand what this system does.

Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
Oh, I couldn't agree more about owning a standalone, I really couldn't. BUT, having a standalone cannot give you better volumetric effieiciency...
Actually it does, since the AFM is removed. But more importantly, most of the VE gains (and hence power gains) would be at high rpm only, as the manifold is not a restriction at low-mid rpm. Given all the other performance disadvantages, swapping a carb just to improve VE would be the sort of thing you should only consider for a drag or track engine.
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 08:48 AM
  #30  
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If i remember correctly when the VDI is "open" it's a shorter run then when it's "closed" (though I might have this backwards). Since they were saying that you need shorter runners ALL THE TIME then just keep the VDI to open all the time.

I do, however, realize that you will see substantial losses on a stock setup, especially at low RPM. If you go carb, you would have the same losses.
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 08:51 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by SonicRaT
Parastie: You can easily use a dizzy, or you can piggyback it and use the stock ECU for spark, which is EXTREMELY easy.
True, and since this guy wants to go for carb setup this would be easy. But you still need to assemble the Megasquirt unless you purchase it from ebay. While I plan on experimenting with a megasquirt this summer, I do not recommend this for everyone as of yet.

BTW, on piggy backing it to the ECU is it better then just have a fuel controller piggyback like an SAFC or E-Manage?
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 08:59 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Gatlin
what about megasquirt? You can buy built units for $300.
Why go megasquirt if you arent going to biuld it and program it yourself? Thats half the joy of it Iwouldnt reccomend using the MegaSquirt to anyone who cant even assemble the thing themselves!

My MS total price so far:

MegaSquirt: $140
TechedgeWBO2: ~$200 (Optional )
GM HEI unit: $23
GM Air Temp sensor: $8
Throwing the AFM/TPS/ACV/RatsNst/Etc in the trash: priceless

Before MegaSquirt I was getting 28MPG peak with 26MPG Highway normal and 22-24MPG average. I'm shooting for 32MPG highway with water injection.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 05:08 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Parastie
If i remember correctly when the VDI is "open" it's a shorter run then when it's "closed" (though I might have this backwards). Since they were saying that you need shorter runners ALL THE TIME then just keep the VDI to open all the time.
The VDI valve does not open a different path for the intake air, it's only the pressure pulses that pass through it. Go look at the pics in the FSM and you'll see what I mean. Whether the valve is open or closed, the intake air follows exactly the same path and the runner lengths do not change.

Also, nobody said you need shorter runners "all the time" and if you did they would be wrong. Changing the manifold runner length simply changes the rpm point at which VE peaks. The shorter the length the higher the VE peak occurs, which increases peak power but at the expense of low-end power.

Last edited by NZConvertible; Mar 23, 2005 at 05:15 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 09:49 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by '89Vert
Just like the title says, i'm thinkin about goin with a carb from racing beat. I searched and found some interesting debates on this from a couple of years back, but nothing really recently. Nor did i find many straight answers. Has anyone done it since then and liked it? i know the basic downsides are not being able to electronically tune it with a computer or hand held controller.

My downside to an EMS is that i'll never be able to afford to do it right, so this seems like a way to get some decent cheap power, especially considering i know a mechanic experienced with tuning carbs. Plus it kind of adds to the old school feel.

BTW my mods are: HKS Sport catback, Bonez intake system, New Bosch plugs and wires, BFG G-Force tires. Soon getting KYB AGX struts.
I was thinking about a similar set up and started a thread in the first gen section. The info, pricing etc. is transferable to what you would like to do. Here is the link:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/questions-1st-gen-carb-gurus-407075/
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