2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Car won't start... stumped...

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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 06:15 PM
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I Tonio I's Avatar
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From: Newburgh, NY
NY Car won't start... stumped...

Well, I recently bought an '86 NA GXL and just replaced the fuel pump. Car almost starts and then gets flooded. Remove and clean the plugs. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Same thing happens. Car is 100% stock. I really don't know what else to check. Any ideas?
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 06:23 PM
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Compression test/ pressure test first.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 06:29 PM
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then new plugs not cleaned plugs
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by FelixIsGod29X
Compression test/ pressure test first.
You got the specs on hand?

Originally Posted by prjct87rx7
then new plugs not cleaned plugs
Will get a new set tomorrow.
Thanks for the help guys.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 11:34 PM
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http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html

^^That should get the ball rolling on your compression test.

For a poor mans coolant seal test its as simple as removing the coolant fill cap while the engine is cold, start car, look for a steady stream of bubbles coming out of coolant fill. Bubbles indicate blown coolant seals.

Also are you sure you put a s4 n/a fuel pump in and have the fuel lines on right?
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 12:26 AM
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From: Newburgh, NY
Originally Posted by FelixIsGod29X
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html

^^That should get the ball rolling on your compression test.

For a poor mans coolant seal test its as simple as removing the coolant fill cap while the engine is cold, start car, look for a steady stream of bubbles coming out of coolant fill. Bubbles indicate blown coolant seals.

Also are you sure you put a s4 n/a fuel pump in and have the fuel lines on right?
Thanks for the comp test link.
Fuel pump was bought from EGay. Walbro 255. it really makes that much of a difference?
I will try doing the comp test and get back at you.
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 12:39 AM
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plugs
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 12:55 PM
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From: Newburgh, NY
Originally Posted by FelixIsGod29X
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html

^^That should get the ball rolling on your compression test.

For a poor mans coolant seal test its as simple as removing the coolant fill cap while the engine is cold, start car, look for a steady stream of bubbles coming out of coolant fill. Bubbles indicate blown coolant seals.

Also are you sure you put a s4 n/a fuel pump in and have the fuel lines on right?
Fuel lines are 100% right.
Compression test netted
#1= 105psi #2=100psi

Originally Posted by prjct87rx7
plugs
Put new plugs in and still the same thing.

I did a ghetto spark test and it seems the Trailing spark is bigger than the Leading spark. Is this normal?
Could the injectors be stuck open for them to be firing all the time?
As soon as I crank it it almost starts but then gets fully flooded. This sucks...
Would the fuel pump make that much of a difference?
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 01:26 PM
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Put a pressure gauge on the fuel supply line, run the fuel pump (With the test connector over by the air flow meter... Or just prop the air flow meter open with something.) until pressure builds up. Then turn the key off. Pressure should still stay up.

Pressure going down would be bad/leaky injectors. Send them to WitchHunter or RC Engineering.


Repeat the procedure with the key on, but engine NOT RUNNING (KOEO - Key on, Engine off)... Remove the test connector jumper or prop in the AFM to stop the fuel pump.
Pressure should stay up.

Pressure going down indicates the ECU is sending a signal to keep the injectors open. Verify with a multimeter or "Noid Light" to see that there is a signal going to the injectors...

Report back on that one and we'll help troubleshoot your fuel injection system... But I'm going to lean towards the leaky injectors.
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 11:12 PM
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From: Newburgh, NY
Originally Posted by Pele
Put a pressure gauge on the fuel supply line, run the fuel pump (With the test connector over by the air flow meter... Or just prop the air flow meter open with something.) until pressure builds up. Then turn the key off. Pressure should still stay up.

Pressure going down would be bad/leaky injectors. Send them to WitchHunter or RC Engineering.


Repeat the procedure with the key on, but engine NOT RUNNING (KOEO - Key on, Engine off)... Remove the test connector jumper or prop in the AFM to stop the fuel pump.
Pressure should stay up.

Pressure going down indicates the ECU is sending a signal to keep the injectors open. Verify with a multimeter or "Noid Light" to see that there is a signal going to the injectors...

Report back on that one and we'll help troubleshoot your fuel injection system... But I'm going to lean towards the leaky injectors.
I will give this a shot.
Do these rotaries only have 2 injectors?
I only see the two on top. Is there 2 more at the bottom?
If so, are they all the same?
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 07:52 PM
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From: Tekisasu
Originally Posted by I Tonio I
Do these rotaries only have 2 injectors?
yes there are two that are on the block. underneath all the intake manifolds.

Originally Posted by I Tonio I
If so, are they all the same?
should be.
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