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-   -   Car won't start... stumped... (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/car-wont-start-stumped-883912/)

I Tonio I 01-23-10 06:15 PM

Car won't start... stumped...
 
Well, I recently bought an '86 NA GXL and just replaced the fuel pump. Car almost starts and then gets flooded. Remove and clean the plugs. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Same thing happens. Car is 100% stock. I really don't know what else to check. Any ideas?

FelixIsGod29X 01-23-10 06:23 PM

Compression test/ pressure test first.

prjct87rx7 01-23-10 06:29 PM

then new plugs not cleaned plugs

I Tonio I 01-23-10 07:04 PM


Originally Posted by FelixIsGod29X (Post 9757542)
Compression test/ pressure test first.

You got the specs on hand?


Originally Posted by prjct87rx7 (Post 9757550)
then new plugs not cleaned plugs

Will get a new set tomorrow.
Thanks for the help guys.

FelixIsGod29X 01-23-10 11:34 PM

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html

^^That should get the ball rolling on your compression test.

For a poor mans coolant seal test its as simple as removing the coolant fill cap while the engine is cold, start car, look for a steady stream of bubbles coming out of coolant fill. Bubbles indicate blown coolant seals.

Also are you sure you put a s4 n/a fuel pump in and have the fuel lines on right?

I Tonio I 01-24-10 12:26 AM


Originally Posted by FelixIsGod29X (Post 9758005)
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html

^^That should get the ball rolling on your compression test.

For a poor mans coolant seal test its as simple as removing the coolant fill cap while the engine is cold, start car, look for a steady stream of bubbles coming out of coolant fill. Bubbles indicate blown coolant seals.

Also are you sure you put a s4 n/a fuel pump in and have the fuel lines on right?

Thanks for the comp test link.
Fuel pump was bought from EGay. Walbro 255. it really makes that much of a difference?
I will try doing the comp test and get back at you.

prjct87rx7 01-24-10 12:39 AM

plugs

I Tonio I 01-24-10 12:55 PM


Originally Posted by FelixIsGod29X (Post 9758005)
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html

^^That should get the ball rolling on your compression test.

For a poor mans coolant seal test its as simple as removing the coolant fill cap while the engine is cold, start car, look for a steady stream of bubbles coming out of coolant fill. Bubbles indicate blown coolant seals.

Also are you sure you put a s4 n/a fuel pump in and have the fuel lines on right?

Fuel lines are 100% right.
Compression test netted
#1= 105psi #2=100psi


Originally Posted by prjct87rx7 (Post 9758093)
plugs

Put new plugs in and still the same thing.

I did a ghetto spark test and it seems the Trailing spark is bigger than the Leading spark. Is this normal?
Could the injectors be stuck open for them to be firing all the time?
As soon as I crank it it almost starts but then gets fully flooded. This sucks...
Would the fuel pump make that much of a difference?

Pele 01-24-10 01:26 PM

Put a pressure gauge on the fuel supply line, run the fuel pump (With the test connector over by the air flow meter... Or just prop the air flow meter open with something.) until pressure builds up. Then turn the key off. Pressure should still stay up.

Pressure going down would be bad/leaky injectors. Send them to WitchHunter or RC Engineering.


Repeat the procedure with the key on, but engine NOT RUNNING (KOEO - Key on, Engine off)... Remove the test connector jumper or prop in the AFM to stop the fuel pump.
Pressure should stay up.

Pressure going down indicates the ECU is sending a signal to keep the injectors open. Verify with a multimeter or "Noid Light" to see that there is a signal going to the injectors...

Report back on that one and we'll help troubleshoot your fuel injection system... But I'm going to lean towards the leaky injectors.

I Tonio I 01-25-10 11:12 PM


Originally Posted by Pele (Post 9758745)
Put a pressure gauge on the fuel supply line, run the fuel pump (With the test connector over by the air flow meter... Or just prop the air flow meter open with something.) until pressure builds up. Then turn the key off. Pressure should still stay up.

Pressure going down would be bad/leaky injectors. Send them to WitchHunter or RC Engineering.


Repeat the procedure with the key on, but engine NOT RUNNING (KOEO - Key on, Engine off)... Remove the test connector jumper or prop in the AFM to stop the fuel pump.
Pressure should stay up.

Pressure going down indicates the ECU is sending a signal to keep the injectors open. Verify with a multimeter or "Noid Light" to see that there is a signal going to the injectors...

Report back on that one and we'll help troubleshoot your fuel injection system... But I'm going to lean towards the leaky injectors.

I will give this a shot.
Do these rotaries only have 2 injectors?
I only see the two on top. Is there 2 more at the bottom?
If so, are they all the same?

duo2999 01-26-10 07:52 PM


Originally Posted by I Tonio I (Post 9762159)
Do these rotaries only have 2 injectors?

yes there are two that are on the block. underneath all the intake manifolds.


Originally Posted by I Tonio I (Post 9762159)
If so, are they all the same?

should be.


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