10thAEWHiteHeat

iTrader: (4)

Damn why does putting **** back together have to be so much harder than taking it apart? Anyway, so i had to take the TMIC, UIM, and all the crap attatched to them off the car because i had to replace the coolant plug that popped on me. I have finally put it all back together and the car won't start

Considering the things i had to remove and disconnect, what are the possibilities of the things that are not letting my car start? It gets full power, and it clicks over but the engine does not begin to fire.

Also, i need step-by-step instructions on how to put the throttle cable back on correctly and pictures of a finished product if possible. Thanx

MFP10thAnn

iTrader: (3)

I will chime in here since you are a fellow AE owner. Chances are, it is something really simple.

A couple of questions:

Did you check the fuses?

Did you diconnect any of the injectors or coils during your disassembly?

Check for vacuum leaks?

If these questions do not lead you to the problem, then you will need to ensure the injectors are seeing adequate fuel, and the ignition system is working properly.

You can use an inductive timing light to perform a quick and dirty ignition test. Hook it up and crank the engine over. If you see the flashing light, chances are that your iginition system is OK (assuming you had no prior problems)

For the fuel system- can you hear the pump prime when you turn the car to ignition on? Also, did you inspect the spark plugs? If they smell of raw fuel and your ignition system is OK, then you may have flooded the motor.

10thAEWHiteHeat

iTrader: (4)

^^ thank you for the response. There are no vaccum leaks that i know of and yes i can hear the fuel pump when i put the car in the "on" position. Basically, everything that is required to take off the whole top end was done. Anything needed to be disconnected or removed in oreder to get the UIM and throttle body off was done. The fuses seem fine but i will check to make sure none are blown.
Also, the battery is dead. When hooking it up to a charger, what is the best way to start it? I dont want to **** up any electrical stuff by giving it too much juice.
Oh and the throttle cable thing is REALLY impotant i can't figure it out..

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

you need to make sure the throttle cable is in front of the a/c line when it turns around the uim. it slips into a "U" groove slot and should be loose until you hook it onto the throttle body. then you can take some slack out of the cable by adjusting it with the two nuts. the best way to charge the battery is to trickle charge it. are you sure you didnt flood it when trying to start it? did you tighten you intercooler plumbing correctly. make sure that the intercooler hoses are tight to the throttle body and to the turbo as well as the intecooler. did you remember to hook up your tps? post back what you find.

10thAEWHiteHeat

iTrader: (4)

I'm pretty sure it's not flooded.. I mean the car does not even crank. All it does is click over. I understand all of the things that you are mentioning mazdaverx713b, but with all of the problems you mentioned, wouldn't the motor still try to crank? BTW, what is trickle charging?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

it would still crank. once your battery is charged make sure you have good connections at the terminals on the battery. also, check to see if the connections at the starter are secure. i dont see how they could have been affected by what you did but its one more thing to check. you may want to charge the battery forst. trickle charging is a way of charging a battery with a home charger. its just a slow charge. once the battery is fully charged, make sure its tight and give it a try.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Engines don't "click" over. They crank over. If it doesn't crank over the you have a battery issue, its probably not charged enough.

Either charge the battery or put in a new one and your car will crank over. Starting.......well.....you'll have to see

10thAEWHiteHeat

iTrader: (4)

ok well the charger i am using is pretty good. It has a "start engine" buttong which shoots 275 amps and that is what i have been trying since the battry is dead. I figured if the car got started the alternator would charge the battery eventually. How should i charge the batery then the charger has 3 options: low (2amp), medium (20amp), and high (60amp). A friend of mine told me to try jump starting the starter but i can't quite figure it out how to do it with the instructions he gave me on the phone... anyone know how to do this? Explantion and pics would be nice if possible. Oh classicauto by click i mean putting the car in "on" position where all the electrics are on and it kinda clicks.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

do not try to jump the starter. just remove the battery and charge it on the 60A setting. or remove the cables and charge it where it sits. the start feature should work pretty well. do you have good connections? once the engine starts the alternator will charge the bttery. you'll wnt to drive the car to ensure a good charge.

JIRIZA84641

1 did the car start or turn over
2 replace battery....regardless
3 are the cables for the bater on the starter hooked up correctly
4 it might be the starter itself, check the blcak cable on the starter it is a 16 or 12 guage one, thats what happened to me, i just moved it and it turned over.

10thAEWHiteHeat

iTrader: (4)

oh ok i wasnt aware that i should take off the cable when charging the battery i will do that. How long should i let it charge on 60amps before trying to start the car?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

None of this adds up.....

Firstly, there should be no "clicks" at all when the key is in the "ON" postion, unless you count the fuel pump priming the system as a click.

Its possible that the BAC valve would be humming when the key is in the on position......but either way, thats got nothing to do with the engine turning over or not.

does the engine turn over when you put the key to "start" or does the starter simply click? If the starter clicks check the connections both at the battery itself and at the starter.

10thAEWHiteHeat

iTrader: (4)

yes i can hear the fuel pump when i turn the key. I'm pretty sure the starter was clicking... i will try again after the battery is charged because it is dead irregardless and i would rather charge it than keep trying to jump it. If it is indeed the starter i'm gonna need some pics or in-depth explantion as to how to jump or check or adjust the cables. Although, i dont see how any of the cables could have moved as i did not touch the starter in the process.
Oh yeah and no the engine does not turn over at all.

Rotary_Rocket_87

if your charger has a 2 amp setting use that. Like someone said above, a slow charge is the best. Using the 60A setting could fry your battery. Also don't just start the car with jump start and let the alternator charge the battery. Alternators aren't designed for this kind of load. You could fry your alternator. If a slow charge doesn't charge your battery get a new one and see how that helps.

10thAEWHiteHeat

iTrader: (4)

^^yes this is something i was thinking about. I set it on 20amp instead and it just finished charging i will give it a try. If i waste the juice trying to start it a will charge it over night on 2 amp.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

let us know what happens!

MFP10thAnn

iTrader: (3)

When you say clicks over, I am assuming you mean the starter soleniod. Cranks won't start, is different than does not crank.

Regardless, get that battery charged up, make sure the plugs are not soaking wet with gas, and fire that thing up!

As for the throttle cable, it is kinda like a brake cable on a bicycle. You should be able to figure out the mounting points on both the accelerator pedal and throttle body. There are 2 10mm nuts used for adjusting the slack in the pedal. The trick is to get the cable as tight as possible without interfering with the TPS adjustment. Too much slack, and the throttle body will not achieve WOT. Once you get the throttle cable adjusted, you will most likely need to check your TPS to make sure it is adjusted correctly.

Hope this helps.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

The fuel pump should not do anything when you just turn the key to "On". The only time the fuel pump SHOULD run is when the car is either starting or running.

10thAEWHiteHeat

iTrader: (4)

Does the throttle cable need to be hooked up to start the car? I just wanna start it and let it run for a while. I'm getting a new battery but i just wanna see if it starts sooooo bad.

STLDriftFC

iTrader: (1)

you have a vaccum leak. make sure every line is hooked up right. to find out if it is for sure a vaccum leak have someone push in the mass airflow so that it tricks the computer into thinking there is more air comming in that there really is. if it starts up then you know what the proublem is. have someone feel around for a leak while the car is running

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

No, it doesn't have to be hooked up.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

any luck?

10thAEWHiteHeat

iTrader: (4)

Well i got the car started and it ran pretty smoothly. All i had to do was replace one of the battery terminals and then unflood the motor. Now i just gotta hook up that damned throttle cable Does anyone at leats have a pic of one full assembled? Verbal instruction only gets me so far sometimes Everyone thank you for your input