I am tired of searching thread after thread to find the answer, i have almost narrow down most of problem.

Here is the symptom: It warms up fine for 2min then idles jumps between 1.2 to 2.5k rpm until it is fully warm, it idles normal around 750-900rm for 30sec before stalling out.

This is on a 88 TII
Things I have done: New Harness, 750cc injectors, rtek 1.7, RB full exhaust, ported wastegate, walbro fuel pump.

The idling issue didnt start happening until i got a custom cat put onto my car. And yes the smog pump is still hook up

-I have checked vac leaks and there is none (im going to replace all vac lines for safety)
-Checked for leaks around the AFM area
-Checked the BAC, ACV
-Checked around the twin scroll actualator area too

I have brought it into the shop, a reputable shop for rotary, they said its my ecu and injectors. I had never had a problem like this b4 prior till put the custom cat in.

Now I am thinking it could be the thermostats. Any other ideas?

 

perhaps your running your engine to rich and your fowling out, or for that matter to lean and your not exploding enough,

check to make sure your ecu is maped correctly, i dont know why it would be a thermostat on an idling problem....cooling and ignition have nothing to do with eachother unless im missunderstanding what your saying

 

Sounds Like Mass Air Flow Meter,cheep Fix Buy Super Afc Idle Like A Dream And Some Playability

 

Like i said i swap numerous rtek 1.7 ecu in and out. ECU is fine and that controls the larger injectors. And it ran fine before until i got a cat put in.

 

Also i got a compression check and it was good all across.

 

Also I swapped out my old tps, because it has hesitation problem when you throttle. So Tps is calibrated up to spec.

So I'm narrowing things down.

-It couldn't be electrical - new engine harness - nothing be tamper with.
-It couldn't vac leak, i have checked and have checked, and i even have a shop checked for me
-I swapped almost 5 BAC and tested and have the same result.
-Checked for leaks around the AFM area, I even have the shop did it.
-I have the shop checked the ACV for and it works.
-I have a working TPS in the car.

What else could it be?

 

my guess wouldve been the tps, but u beat me to it

if i can remember, i think my friend with his 88t2 had a similar prob, ill try n get a hold of him thru a pm to see what his prob was

have u tried to pull codes yet?

 

not yet, i should tho.
The shop couldnt even figure it out (they are supposed to be a reputable shop for rotary), and guessing the injectors, and ecu is causing the problem. Which i can guarantee is not.

 

might as well jack your car up and check those cats and **** ??? your car was running fine till it went to ******** yups

 

still need my ecu back

 

If you can, if its not a bother ask your friend for me. Thanks.

 

are your injectors and fuel connections ok? perhaps your getting to much fuel if the injectors are letting to much through or your not getting enough, like bad fuel filter, clogged= injector, rail, crimp in line, bad conection at pump, hell clogged pump. basically did you check all your fuel system?

 

The injectors are new from RC and less than 100miles is on them (the correct ones for my model. N333 Saturated 750cc RC nippon denso style INjectors), they have been replace by Rick's Rotary which is a reputable shop. Fuel Filter is still good, and Im running a new walbro Pump and i was running a slight rich like the rtek 1.7 ecu is program and still run rich and i can smell it.

THE FUEL SYSTEM HAVE BEEN CHECKED A DOZEN OF TIME AND LIKE I SAID BEFORE THE CAR WAS RUNNING FINE UNTIL A CUSTOM CAT WAS PUT IN OR SOMETHING ELSE COULD HAVE HAPPEN OR GONE WRONG. I CAN GUARANTEE IS NOT THE FUEL SYSTEM

 

well then pull the cat and start the car...what else is left??

 

Im thinking of that right now. But i have to get my car smog. Its been over due for 6months now. But yet again, i doubt a cat can cause your car to idle incorrectly.

 

have you tried to open the idle srew all the way up to see if it would stall out or not, or check the butterfly on the throttle body to see if it's still within spec. try that and see what happen if you haven't yet.

 

Maybe check the Crank Sensor. I had a corroded connection, it would start and rev normally, then just die. I cleaned the connection and that fixed it

 

when it is corroded did it idle at all, the reason i ask was because my car will start and rev normaly to 3000 rpm then just die off with no chance for the engine to idle at all.

 

Yea i have tried to adjust the idle stop screw and the idle screw and it did nothin and still stalled out. Ill look into checking the throttle butterfly.

And Josh13B, I will look into my CAS.

 

sorta, if it did it was only about 400rpm and shaked like crazy. I had to keep my foot on the accelerator so it didnt stall

 

For me, it was 750~900rpm just slowly stalls out. I have to keep my foot on the pedal to prevent it from stalling out. I can Drive it no problem, it just everytime i left off the gas or clutch into neutral.

 

I had the same problem, but it was an easy fix. I was low on oil, somehow or another that caused it to idle crappy and die.

 

your lucky thats the only thing it did.

have you tried pulling the cat yet? i know you said you need to pas smog but if your 6 months over due whats about 2 more days with no cat?

 

Im going to that soon, when my rb dp comes.