2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Car troubles

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Old Feb 16, 2002 | 12:00 AM
  #1  
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From: Springfield, MO
Car troubles

I didn't want to type everything up again... so I'll just link.

( Noone's in the Rotary Tech section )

PLEASE LOOK AT ME! I NEED YOUR HELP! CLICK ME! CLICK ME!
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Old Feb 16, 2002 | 12:08 AM
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From: FK EPIC FU
Uh, there's nto much to look at
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Old Feb 16, 2002 | 12:10 AM
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From: College Station, Tx
Ok, secondary fuel injectors. They only come on at 3,800 RPM if they are needed. Check the fuel rail for leaks, and check the injectors themselves.
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Old Feb 16, 2002 | 12:18 AM
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well, I think the shudder will die as soon as I replace the spark plugs and change the oil. Even still, it shudders BEFORE 3800RPM. I'm more concerned with the 6000K hesitation
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Old Feb 16, 2002 | 12:19 AM
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From: College Station, Tx
Ah, well then I have no idea! Ask HAILERS, he knows everything!!!
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Old Feb 16, 2002 | 12:22 AM
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From: FK EPIC FU
I have no idea. But I am still looking for what you guys are looking at.

????

is there a picture
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Old Feb 16, 2002 | 12:53 AM
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From: Brisbane, Australia
have you checked the TPS using the method posted by that monkey guy.. if not, heres how you do it.

With car off, but in ON position:

1. Find and Identify. There are 2 plungers for the TPS. The one towards the front of the engine bay is the low range plunger. See it? Good, now onto step two.

2. Grab your voltmeter and set it to 20 DCv (NOT DCmv-millivolts, that'll fry your tester...I just know ). Find a suitable ground and make sure the ground is good by testing something (your battery for example). Now that you have established that your ground is good for testing, step 3.

3. Find the plug for the TPS. It has 6 wires.

4. Near the battery there is a single wire with a green connector. Now take a good 10" piece of wire, and make a connection between the green connector and the - terminal of the battery, making sure that both ends are secure. Now go into the car and turn the key till the warning lights come on, making sure NOT to start the car.

5. Remember step 3? You should, it was only 2 steps ago . The 6 wires are actually what is used by the ECU to determine throttle position. Each plunger uses 3 wires each. For each plunger there is:

-0.0v Ground
-5.0v Power supply
-?.?v Data line

The data line for the plunger described in step 1 is the one you will be adjusting to 1.0v. Keep the TPS connected and CRAM the tester's leads into the plug (side of the plug that goes to the TPS is easier). Test each one till you identify the two wires that are NOT 0.0v, or 5.0v. Now you should be left with 2 wires that have different voltages.

6. Identifying which one is the left (low range) plunger is really easy. Just move the plunger around with your finger and see if the voltage jumps. If it doesn't jump, try the other wire that has the odd # voltage (not 0 or 5).

7. Don't be amazed if it is off, mine was at 2.8 when I tested it. To adjust the voltage, put a 8mm wrench on the back of the adjusting screw and turn with a flathead until you reach 1.0v. The screw is immediatly to the left of the plunger, kinda behind the altenator. Each turn will make a pretty big change, so adjust slowly. When you get it to 1.00v, play with the throttle cable a lil bit, just to make sure that it settles back to 1.00v even. I had to do this a few times...I gave up with 1.01v (that's REAAALLY close enough for me ).
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