ok its gotten worse...

today i replaced EVERY VACCUM HOSE AND CAP, and the whistle didnt cease...

its got to be coming from the BOV ... i adjusted it all the way out and all the way in ... the whistling was still there...

it ONLY whistles while under vaccum from what i can tell .. if i give it throttle it whistle will stop until i let off ...

i was looking at this diagram

http://www.935motorsports.com/greddybov.htm

the bottom nipple just allows the seal to open quicker ..... would that help me in my situation ... ive never had to hook it up before??

and its NOT a belt squeaking .... thats a whole different sound ... this is for sure some sort of whistle ...

HELP!!!???!!!

thanks
=-dustin

 

Man, you're closer to the car than I am, lol- you can't tell where it's coming from?

 

the reason i made this thread ( i guess i should have been more clear) ... what all can make a whistling noise?

i was just with my friend rotorbrain, and we think its not from the BOV but further back ...

we now think its the upper intake manifold ...

the gasket isnt in the best of shape (ive taken the upper off countless times, in the past few months) but i did apply a thin layer of RTV to it ...

has anyone else had a manifold leak whistle like a bitch before??
is that possible ..

its gotta be a vac leak cause it only does it while the car is under vac .... makes sense right?

and sense ive replaced EVERY vac line and cap, it cant be those ... theres not much else that could whistle under vaccum??

am i right?

 

with the car cooled (turbo specifically) spray the area where the whistle is with some carb cleaner. Spray around until you hear the idle change and then you should be able to pin point where your whistle is coming from.
let us know if and when you find it.

 

RTV the gasket surfaces. A vac whistle may only occour on a vac. The leak would have a dif characteristic under boost, and hence may not whistle.

You can replace every vac line and still miss one, have one fall off, or have a gasket start leaking for no reason. We've all been there...

Anyhow, I'd start with that iffy gasket, just sandwich it with RTV (I used ultra copper II, good stuff).

What does your boost gauge show for vac at idle?

 

Remember that carb cleaner is combustabkle though. Water will have the same affect, not kill you in fumes, and not have a chance of cinging your eye brows.

 

its still the stocker ... it reads down at the bottom

the boost guage that is

 

Yeah, just feel around the suspected gasket mating surfaces with your fingers, as far as you can, to see if the pitch changes...If you hear something akin to "Mary had a little lamb", you were at it & passed it. J/k, of course, but you opened yourself up to that one...

If you find the leak, and it's accessible, put a little RTV on your finger & dab it over the opening. Immediately shut the car off, and let cure for 30 minutes or so...

 

not a bad idea
so should i buy another OEM gasket, or just clean the surfaces and add RTV?
or should i do both?


*heads to mazdatrix to order another gasket*

 

Depends on when you plan to crack the manifolds again, and when you plan to drive the car. If you plan on cracking the manifolds in the next 6 or so months, I'd buy the gaskets, and try rtv'ing it now. Then you'll have the gaskets to replace later.

If you don't need the car driveable now, I'd buy the gaskets and wait to install them, with new rtv.

 

Have you used a vacuum gauge to see what the car pulls? I'd replace those gaskets and make sure again that there are no disconnected vacuum lines. I found I had a few after I replaced them all and had to pull the uim off three or four times before I found everything. BTW I like your avatar.

 

the car is driveable now, its just whistling like a bitch ...
i just ordered the gasket ... so ill just wait till they are in, and put it back on there, with some rtv on the surfaces as well ...
guess ill be doing this next weekend ..

man i hate pulling the UIM . ... its not hard at all, but its all the small things that i have to do to get it off ... unhook the 3 hoses on the back .... disconnecting the MOP bar, the throttle cables, etc etc ....

oh well ... next weekend we'll see if thats the cause of the whistle or not

 

mine whistles cus i put an airfilter on the airpump. could come from that. but mine whistlkes after i hit 3.5 grand it it isnt5 that noticeable, but i do hear it.

 

okay ... i replaced the gasket, and have replaced EVERY SINGLE vac cap and vac line ..

same whistle ... still there .. only happening when foot isnt on gas .. doesnt whistle below 1500 or so RPM ..

other than the obvious (caps and lines) what else has vaccum ?
im going to replace the rubber line that goes to the LIM to somewhere on the firewall (pretty sure its the brake booster line .. not sure though)

other than that last rubber hose, is there anything else that draws vaccum that i may have over looked that you guys can think of?

 

Try clamping all the hoses, really tight.

 

My trick to check for vac leaks.

Get an extra AFM or the one off your car.

Go to Home Depot.
Buy a 3inch Pipe plug

If your lucky and have an aftermarket filter with round adapter(s4 guys) then you can just put the plug inside the AFM opening and then put it on the car.

You now have a sealed engine which I put pressure through an extra Vac hose.

Listen around for a whistling.

I found on on my TID and a small one on my ACV block plate this way.

 

the main question i have though, is other than rubber/silicon vac tubes and caps ...

has anyone ever had a manifold leak whistle?

when someone mentioned split vac cap or line, that made sense, as high pressure squeezing thru would obviously make a whistle ... but it just doesnt seem like metal would whistle like this ... i mean i took everything off (TID included) inspected all the rubber couplings, and then reinstalled ... nothing changed??

 

bump

has anyone had a manifold leak (not related to vaccum hoses/caps) whistle as if it was a line or cap?

 

has anyone ever had a defective greddy type s BOV (or any other BOV) that whistled like this ?

the BOV still sounds great as far as the whoosh it gives off, but im completely out of ideas here

 

whistler is a stumper huh?

 

ok i have a similar whistling leak form somewhere but i am convinced its got somethign to do with the hydrolic clutch cuz when the car is at idle it whistles really loud and i have a n/a just installed a 120 000 mile motor which runs fine. but it seems to whistle at idle but i tap the clutch peddle doen a smige and it starts goign away then it makes a different kinda noise then it goes away withougth pushing the clutch all the way in. try pushign the cluch in to see if tyhats the problem if it is. i dont know how to fix it yet

 

no its not clutch related .. the only thing that stops this whistle is if my foot is on the gas, or the rpms are lower than about 1500-1400 rpm ....

 

did you try pressure testing your vac system?

 

ive replaced every single vac line and cap ...

the only line i havent replaced is the brake booster line ... could it whistle like that? it gets vacum right?

 

You know what... My car started whistling when I broke the flange on the BAC.