My car is doing the same thing, it all started after I replaced the Pulsation Damper, I hooked everything back up, including the Fuel-Pump jumper, which flooded out the car wickedly. After getting it started again using a fuel cut switch, the car dies right when i start it, or when ive been driving around for a while, but while it is warming up it runs fine, I don't understand. TurboRen thinks I might have a leaking coolant seal, but I can't tell if I'm burning coolant. 196k miles on the motor, and all the vac lines are hooked up right, I think, I did the PD with only a Chilton's manual and no help, I'm not exactly the best mechanic, so is there anything externally I should look for?

 

well given he hadn't been working on it before he had the trouble like you had i would say it is the afm

 

This is pretty much the problem with mine

 

Well my car is in the shop, I'll let you guys know what he says is wrong. I did set the idle per FSM- the strange thing is that my idle adjust screw has no real effect on idle. ?? ggrrr!

 

That's because you probably forgot to jumper the initial set connector...right?

 

I had a similiar problem after changing my FPD, and found it beign a big vaccuum leak. I removed my BAC while I was doing this, and forgot to reconnect the vaccum hose beneath it that goes to the intake.

 

Not if your refering to the green one on driver side fender-wayne88na.

 

Greg, yeh, if you don't jumper that connector (it sounds like you know where it is) to tell the ECU that you're adjusting the base idle, the BAC system will stay activated and frustrate any adjustments you're trying to make...

 

same situation as the thread starter but yes my car idles after ~15seconds of holding the gas

it's strange...

 

Yeah I jumpered that- WAYNE88NA. Hey I should know something by the first of the week from the shop- I'll pass the info along...

 

Have you guys found or corrected the problems like I was having? Just curious...I haven't heard from the shop yet- keep you posted. Greg C.

 

This maybe sound a little stupid but on my 86 i did an engine swap and when i put everything back together I somehow managed to plug the connector for the AFM in upside down. It caused it to do this run for a few seconds then die. Im still tryin to figure out how I did this cause there are tabs to prevent it from being plugged in wrong. But o well I hope you guys figure this one out.

 

Just for the record, I have installed security systems in cars with a starter kill and also an engine kill.. you may have left a module of the security system in, and it's killing your engine... the problem is, the last one I installed that killed the car after it started was so long ago, I don't remember which direction to point in.. all I can say is taht if it was a bitch to remove, then it was installed properly..

 

Well I stopped by the shop today - the guy told me he has gotten the car to run and idle and could be driven if I wanted. He has only made adjustment to the TB and costed me about $50. I told him to go ahead and make some more checks- he wanted to check some of the other electrical stuff. So with a lesson of humility under my belt, and a little less confidence, I may soon be on the road again(with little charge). <sigh of relief> Keep you guys updated. Greg C.

 

I had to remove the TB and all to replace the FPD, would that have caused the TB to become "un-adjusted"? If so, how would I re-adjust it tso that the car runs well again?

 

I know one problem I had was a improperly adjusted TPS. Refer to FSM.With my experiennce, that was basically what was wrong, there were few adjustments made. I think the other was the fast idle. Greg C.