its not the turbo, its just a vacuum leak, and these cars are picky about vacuum leaks.

do something, wrap it with tape even

 

still trying to eliminate possibillities, worst comes to worst ill be redoing the lim to block gasket/seal and everything up.

redid the egr seal, no change.

car needs 2500'ish rpm until it can maintain idle or dies

I'm determined to get it right, don't doubt me now

Rotary > Pistons

 

Hows that TID coming along?

 

haven't fixed that yet, I'm wondering if my map sensor is bad

Rotary > Pistons

 

One thing at a time. Get the known problems fixed first before you drop money on anything else.
Seriously though, go make a Home Depot TID for $10 bucks and just see if that solves your problem.

 

I will when I get money , honestly ill prolly just getcte corksport tied because I wanted it anyways

Rotary > Pistons

 

so I put a replacement afm and map sensor and after warm it purrs like a kitten , it still has a hard time starting (which I think is due to my starter and bad adjustments on TB)

I want to get the starter replaced , get it to idle where it should around 800 and check timing , tps adjustment and all other adjustments on the TB.

If its got a vacuum leak I don't see why it would idle perfectly when its warm, with no surging or drops.

I sprayed more Carb cleaner and I couldn't find any discernible leaks

Rotary > Pistons

 

update, I did get it idling at 750-800 rpm when hot (after lowering the throttle close set) , but it still won't idle unless I rev to 2500+ cold and will choke if I hit.the gas at lower rpm.


I'm doing tests with help from another forum member and found my iat sensor is bad, and that my water sensor behind the water pump is getting too much voltage (4.97), also my variable resistor is bad.

I'll be doing more tests to find the problem of why the voltage is so high, something has to be wrong with the wiring.

I also am going to be fixing the wiring to my bac valve so it can operate properly.

I've already fixed the tps setting and removed the thermowax etc.

Unfortunately my radiator sprung a leak and ill be replacing that with a temporary junkyard rad and then getting a koyo n flow.

Rotary > Pistons

 

The Thermosensor has two wires and one of them is a ground and if it's not grounded properly that could cause a high voltage reading. Also, either wire in the connector plug could be pulled back and not mating w/the sensor.

 

Hopefully I fix whatever it is soon. I'll keep everyone posted, ill be testing more tommorow.

Rotary > Pistons

 

Did you read the voltage of the G/W wire from the ECU?

 

Yes, he did. I had him check a whole host of things today and found a bunch of small things off/wrong. He'll be checking the ground of the thermosensor tomorrow, as the resistance seems to be fine on the sensor itself. Seems like the never ending story on this car.

 

So the connectors metal tabs are buried in the water thermo sensor connector and not making contact with the connector.

Ill be fixing that tommorow hopefully as well as replacing the iat sensor and swapping radiators.

Rotary > Pistons

 

Hey dude, glad to hear your car's coming along. I believe a fuel injector connector is the same as the water thermo-sensor connector, so if you had trouble repairing your stock one, you may be able to get away with replacing it with a replacement fuel injector connector from autozone or somewhere.

 

I just went and replaced all that stuff and the car is still not wanting to idle for more than a few seconds after I start it.

Idk what's going on, I need an rx7 guru over here cars becoming a headache

Rotary > Pistons

 

If the engine is a rebuild perhaps it is asking you to drive it and let some things sort themselves out before trying to diagnose the problem.

 

shouldn't it idle when cold without any issues though without having to be at 2000ish + rpm

Rotary > Pistons

 

no! the car is designed to idle @2000rpm cold, so the ecu is mapped to run the car @2000rpm cold, if you dip below that it should still run, but if you're trying to get it to idle @750rpm cold, at best idle will be weak, at best, until its warm

 

I have all the cold start system.removed , thermowax removed/fast idle csm removed, the rtek removes the high rev startup.

It will.idle fine for a few seconds then just die , like it.doesn't want.to stay where its at.

I'm gonna keep.testing stuff, another thing on theist is getting.rid.of an an annoying beep.the car makes and.doesn't stop.

I grounded the coolant level sensor and it didn't stop, swapped CPU and didn't stop.

Brake light is on for.the dummy light and idk.what its on for, dc'ed the sensor on the brake fluid container and didn't stop either.


Ughhb



Rotary > Pistons

 

yep that is exactly what i'd expect without the thermowax.

you may be able to raise the idle speed a little, and set the idle mixture a little richer and make it a little better, but there is really no getting around the fact you don't have the thermowax

 

If the car is a rebuild then removing these items is not beneficial. You need to drive the car to build compression and building compression will help alleviate some of your problems.

 

Even when I had the thermowax it still wouldnt work since I removed the coolant lines.

Rotary > Pistons

 

The car starts right up though, I haven't checked compression but the housings used were in good.condition

Rotary > Pistons

 

How could it work w/the coolant line removed?

 

it couldn't it'd.just idle.high then never go.down and half work if it worked at all

Rotary > Pistons