Car stalls when i hit the gas after it starts, bad afm or map sensor?
06-24-13, 11:39 PM
#26
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06-26-13, 11:43 PM
#27
still trying to eliminate possibillities, worst comes to worst ill be redoing the lim to block gasket/seal and everything up.
redid the egr seal, no change.
car needs 2500'ish rpm until it can maintain idle or dies
I'm determined to get it right, don't doubt me now
Rotary > Pistons
redid the egr seal, no change.
car needs 2500'ish rpm until it can maintain idle or dies
I'm determined to get it right, don't doubt me now
Rotary > Pistons
06-28-13, 08:06 PM
#32
so I put a replacement afm and map sensor and after warm it purrs like a kitten , it still has a hard time starting (which I think is due to my starter and bad adjustments on TB)
I want to get the starter replaced , get it to idle where it should around 800 and check timing , tps adjustment and all other adjustments on the TB.
If its got a vacuum leak I don't see why it would idle perfectly when its warm, with no surging or drops.
I sprayed more Carb cleaner and I couldn't find any discernible leaks
Rotary > Pistons
I want to get the starter replaced , get it to idle where it should around 800 and check timing , tps adjustment and all other adjustments on the TB.
If its got a vacuum leak I don't see why it would idle perfectly when its warm, with no surging or drops.
I sprayed more Carb cleaner and I couldn't find any discernible leaks
Rotary > Pistons
07-01-13, 08:55 PM
#33
update, I did get it idling at 750-800 rpm when hot (after lowering the throttle close set) , but it still won't idle unless I rev to 2500+ cold and will choke if I hit.the gas at lower rpm.
I'm doing tests with help from another forum member and found my iat sensor is bad, and that my water sensor behind the water pump is getting too much voltage (4.97), also my variable resistor is bad.
I'll be doing more tests to find the problem of why the voltage is so high, something has to be wrong with the wiring.
I also am going to be fixing the wiring to my bac valve so it can operate properly.
I've already fixed the tps setting and removed the thermowax etc.
Unfortunately my radiator sprung a leak and ill be replacing that with a temporary junkyard rad and then getting a koyo n flow.
Rotary > Pistons
I'm doing tests with help from another forum member and found my iat sensor is bad, and that my water sensor behind the water pump is getting too much voltage (4.97), also my variable resistor is bad.
I'll be doing more tests to find the problem of why the voltage is so high, something has to be wrong with the wiring.
I also am going to be fixing the wiring to my bac valve so it can operate properly.
I've already fixed the tps setting and removed the thermowax etc.
Unfortunately my radiator sprung a leak and ill be replacing that with a temporary junkyard rad and then getting a koyo n flow.
Rotary > Pistons
07-01-13, 09:59 PM
#37
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Yes, he did. I had him check a whole host of things today and found a bunch of small things off/wrong. He'll be checking the ground of the thermosensor tomorrow, as the resistance seems to be fine on the sensor itself. Seems like the never ending story on this car.
07-07-13, 09:22 AM
#39
Hey dude, glad to hear your car's coming along. I believe a fuel injector connector is the same as the water thermo-sensor connector, so if you had trouble repairing your stock one, you may be able to get away with replacing it with a replacement fuel injector connector from autozone or somewhere.
07-07-13, 01:01 PM
#43
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no! the car is designed to idle @2000rpm cold, so the ecu is mapped to run the car @2000rpm cold, if you dip below that it should still run, but if you're trying to get it to idle @750rpm cold, at best idle will be weak, at best, until its warm
07-07-13, 01:05 PM
#44
It will.idle fine for a few seconds then just die , like it.doesn't want.to stay where its at.
I'm gonna keep.testing stuff, another thing on theist is getting.rid.of an an annoying beep.the car makes and.doesn't stop.
I grounded the coolant level sensor and it didn't stop, swapped CPU and didn't stop.
Brake light is on for.the dummy light and idk.what its on for, dc'ed the sensor on the brake fluid container and didn't stop either.
Ughhb
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07-07-13, 01:09 PM
#45
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you may be able to raise the idle speed a little, and set the idle mixture a little richer and make it a little better, but there is really no getting around the fact you don't have the thermowax