car runs rich....sound like a subaru...lost of power neeed help asapp
06-24-12, 10:37 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: north jersey
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
car runs rich....sound like a subaru...lost of power neeed help asapp
this just started today,i drive my car every weekend...
As title says im running really rich accordin to my aem afr gauge when i gas it at low rpm it runs really rich soundin like a subaru
almost sound like a spark plug is out
i dont really wanna punch it cuz of how rich is running but it will raise to redline if i did it doesnt get stuck at any rpm....
*i compression test back and front rotor its well over 90
*both coil packs are working fine......i took each spark plug out and clean them down real good they look lil burnt but nothin major at all
motor was rebuilt about yr ago
MY car Mod are
aeromotive fpr at 42 when every thing was fine i was hittin 11.7afr on top boost 9lbs
rebuilt turbo bnr stage 1
n370 chip wit rtek 1.7 which has larger 720 secondary injectors
hks bov
straight pipe corksport
godspeed radaitor
every thing else is stock
pleasee helpp need my baby back on track
As title says im running really rich accordin to my aem afr gauge when i gas it at low rpm it runs really rich soundin like a subaru
almost sound like a spark plug is out
i dont really wanna punch it cuz of how rich is running but it will raise to redline if i did it doesnt get stuck at any rpm....
*i compression test back and front rotor its well over 90
*both coil packs are working fine......i took each spark plug out and clean them down real good they look lil burnt but nothin major at all
motor was rebuilt about yr ago
MY car Mod are
aeromotive fpr at 42 when every thing was fine i was hittin 11.7afr on top boost 9lbs
rebuilt turbo bnr stage 1
n370 chip wit rtek 1.7 which has larger 720 secondary injectors
hks bov
straight pipe corksport
godspeed radaitor
every thing else is stock
pleasee helpp need my baby back on track
06-25-12, 11:35 AM
#6
one thing that you could possibly check is the throttle position sensor, that controls how much gas the ecu thinks the engine needs, just a guess at something that it could be causing you to run rich, because if its not working it will tell the ecu to send the wrong amount of gas and as a failsafe i would THINK it would tell it to give more gas than is needed, as well if its out of adjustment, but it would also cause alot backfiring on decel , i had this problem on my na before and it was the connectors on the tps to the harness, they were all corroded and causing a bad connection, a friend helped diagnose it and we replaced it with a new connector from a good tps wire/connector and cut off the old one and put the new one in its place, ran normal after
Trending Topics
06-26-12, 10:18 AM
#8
Probably just going to have to go over and check as many things as you can, im not that great with technical things on rx7s, but there are many things that could factor into the car running wrong.
Have you checked your spark plugs and wires ? If the plugs are fouled out (all black on ends); youll want to replace them or at least clean the ends off with a wire brush if you cant afford new plugs , and if the wires have blue stuff on the connectors youll want to clean that stuff off or replace them depending on how bad it is and if you can afford to get new ones.
I always get ngk spark plugs and wires, its pretty much the best standard stuff to get for your ignition.
Another thing to check that could help is your grounds, clean them off and redo them, i dont know if that could cause the problem, but it wouldn't hurt.
As far as other things that could be causing you to run rich im not really sure. Bad fuel pressure regulator (not sure if that would cause you to run lean or rich). --- actually nevermind the fuel pressure regulator , i saw you have an aeromotive one, so i wouldnt think you should have a problem with that
Have you checked your spark plugs and wires ? If the plugs are fouled out (all black on ends); youll want to replace them or at least clean the ends off with a wire brush if you cant afford new plugs , and if the wires have blue stuff on the connectors youll want to clean that stuff off or replace them depending on how bad it is and if you can afford to get new ones.
I always get ngk spark plugs and wires, its pretty much the best standard stuff to get for your ignition.
Another thing to check that could help is your grounds, clean them off and redo them, i dont know if that could cause the problem, but it wouldn't hurt.
As far as other things that could be causing you to run rich im not really sure. Bad fuel pressure regulator (not sure if that would cause you to run lean or rich). --- actually nevermind the fuel pressure regulator , i saw you have an aeromotive one, so i wouldnt think you should have a problem with that
06-27-12, 04:11 AM
#10
FC3S
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: I come from a land downunder
Posts: 745
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd replace the plugs rather then clean them. My car sat for 2 weeks while I worked on it and out of nowhere when I went to start it the plugs were bad, ran fine when I last drove it. Took me ages to find, I cleaned them and no difference, new plugs and all was well. If it sound's like a subaru that means it's on 1 rotor.
06-27-12, 10:01 AM
#11
I'd replace the plugs rather then clean them. My car sat for 2 weeks while I worked on it and out of nowhere when I went to start it the plugs were bad, ran fine when I last drove it. Took me ages to find, I cleaned them and no difference, new plugs and all was well. If it sound's like a subaru that means it's on 1 rotor.
If you can't find what's wrong with it, and nothing will fix it, there's a good chance he's right. I bought a car running on 1 rotor , it would run, but you'd have to control the idle by foot, sometimes it would idle but barely, and acceleration was **** poor as well as making it backfire alot (since half the gas is obviously not being burnt because half the engine has no compression)
Hopefully you don't have it running on one rotor, hopefully its something else that's easy to fix.
06-27-12, 01:46 PM
#12
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: north jersey
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no error codes were found
when i clean the plugs the subaru sound went away but still was hesitating n chokin u
its idleing really rich now
went from 14.7 to 12.1afr
i also lowered my fpr to 40 which didnt do anything
when i clean the plugs the subaru sound went away but still was hesitating n chokin u
its idleing really rich now
went from 14.7 to 12.1afr
i also lowered my fpr to 40 which didnt do anything
06-27-12, 01:51 PM
#13
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: north jersey
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
im changing plugs...wiress.. and o2 sensor as well today to see what happens
all grounds were check all seem good i even retightin all of them
motor was compression tested yesterday and back n front reads fine still
all grounds were check all seem good i even retightin all of them
motor was compression tested yesterday and back n front reads fine still
07-04-12, 10:33 AM
#20
We want numbers though.
90 or less = ready to go at any moment
90-100 - getting weak
100-110 - decent
110+ - ideal
A cheaply rebuilt engine will yield lower compression than a higher quality rebuild, you really want to have 100+ compression on each rotor face, but ideally 110+
90 or less = ready to go at any moment
90-100 - getting weak
100-110 - decent
110+ - ideal
A cheaply rebuilt engine will yield lower compression than a higher quality rebuild, you really want to have 100+ compression on each rotor face, but ideally 110+
07-04-12, 10:41 AM
#21
Were there any recent changes to your engine which could have precipitated this problem such as what was the last thing you worked on that was engine related?
You could try disconnecting the TPS and in addition to unplugging the vacuum hose to the Boost Sensor and drive the car to see if it runs appreciably better or not.
When in doubt grab a copy of the FSM ECU pinouts and go through each one relevant to the operation of the engine and take measurements w/key to on and also w/the engine running and see how it compares to the numbers provided in the manual.
You could try disconnecting the TPS and in addition to unplugging the vacuum hose to the Boost Sensor and drive the car to see if it runs appreciably better or not.
When in doubt grab a copy of the FSM ECU pinouts and go through each one relevant to the operation of the engine and take measurements w/key to on and also w/the engine running and see how it compares to the numbers provided in the manual.