TrboRty

iTrader: (1)

Have a 88 T2 with a 60-1 turbo, fmic, haltech, Koyo radiator, anyways I am running a haltech,and I am using a 16 inch Black Magic E-fan with a shroud rated at 2800cfm, anyways just driving down the highway in 80 degree ambient air temps, I saw on my laptop my coolant temp get up to 225F, now I know my fan is coming on cuz I've seen it, my coolant level is full,and my coolant is new. I did put in a new mazda T-stat. Now driving around the city I notice temps around 205F,but if I boost my temps start to sky rocket and the car doesn't cool off that much at idle, maybe a couple of degrees. Any Ideas on what could be causing this?

91_fc

thermostat maybe?

theonlygreat

do you have the underbody car cover on? with a FMIC i would suggest making some custom ducting like the top radiator cover panel to ensure air is going through the radiator/oil cooler.

rx7_rat

what rad cap are you using becuase remeber that water boils at 210 F and with every pound of pressure you have on your rad cap is a 10 degree increase in boiling temp, but that does sound about normal for a temp, also your fan should shutoff above 35 mph or it will do more harm than good


hope that helps
rat

p.s.

have your rad cap pressure tested to make sure it is dilvering the pressure it is supposed to be

Fritz_X

iTrader: (1)

If you idle after boosting that is just going to cause heatsoak isn't it? Kind of like when you are driving in traffic. The car wants constant air not off and on.

--Fritz

TrboRty

iTrader: (1)

well the rad cap is what came with the koyo and it's a 13 psi cap...and I put a new mazda T-stat in the car already. How do you mean the fan actually hurts above 35mph?

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

You can look into getting a thermostat that opens at lower temps.

The reason he said the fan hurts above 35 is because the air the fan sucks in is going less than 35 mph, so it *could* cause some sort of turbulence and decrease air flow... Although I doubt it. I would also get a higher rated pressure cap for your radiator as well. Make sure there's no kinks in your hoses... Make sure the water pump is working properly, not clogged, etc. When's the last time you flushed your cooling system?

Amur_

How old is the rad? Have you had a good look at it from both sides to make sure that it isn't clogged with dirt or has a rag or leaves or whatever blocking the front?


Have you pulled your water pump and had a look at it? The impeller can break.

Also, one of those new parts (cap, thermostat) may just be a dud.


If nothing else works, you might consider RETed's modified coolant flush to clean your system right out...

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/COOL/cooling.htm


For what it's worth, here's the FSM's comments:

TrboRty

iTrader: (1)

well my never had a cooling issure before when I was running stock, and when I say stock I mean stock turbo,fan,ecu, only thing I still had was the fmic on the car, and even stock it ran a little hotter then before but not by much....so really the only thing I changed was the radiator and T-stat...I dunno about the radiator I bought it used which maybe was a mistake.....

Scott 89t2

since you are running hotter moving it's not the fan. that is only for when you are stoped.

the first thing I would look at would be the fuel / timming maps of the haltech... has it been tuned? both will effect water temps.

and as above you need all your ducting. both below and above the rad. all air comming through the front should have nowhere to go but through the rad.

TrboRty

iTrader: (1)

yeah the car was tuned by steve kan so I doubt the haltech is a problem....um yeah I have nothing to direct the air to the front of the radiator, one thing I thought about doing was getting a "pusher" fan to go on the frt. of the radiator.....

TrboRty

iTrader: (1)

here is a pic of the front of my car

TrboRty

iTrader: (1)

then again maybe not...damn server

West TX RX-7

I had the exact same problem. Aftermarket turbo, haltech, FMIC, Radiator, Permacool fan with a shroud.

What I finally figured out was a bad relay. Wire the fan directly to the alternator and see what happens. Mine was not running as fast as it should have and was not comming on soon enough or shutting down after long enough. It would cycle on and off. I wired derect to the alt and watched the temps and they stayed low so I put in a new relay and wired it to the haltech to come on at 190 and shut down at 180 and it works a ton better.

I also has a custom shroud made and ended up just taking it off completely so the fan is a finger chopper now. I did that before the relay replacement so It may have worked ok with the shroud.

TrboRty

iTrader: (1)

well the relay is brand new, and the fan does come on, I already have my haltech controling the fan/relay.......

West TX RX-7

my relay was new and the fan did come on also. It just wasn't comming on as fast as it should have for long enough. It was still pull alot of air but apparently a little bit faster with a little longer run time made the difference.

TrboRty

iTrader: (1)

hmm intresting so how did you end up fixing the problem?

Amur_

Oops -> I should mention that I've done RETed's modified flush myself several times on my own 7 and it didn't hurt a thing. That was two summers ago and I've put at least 140,000 kms on that motor since then and she still runs like a champ...


Just an FYI.

Scott 89t2

140, 000 kms in 2 years?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?

Amur_

Oops -> nix that. More like 80,000. My fuel log says I average about 40k a year. Glad you pointed that out.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Hell, I've put 100,000KM on my Insight since last Feb.

Scott 89t2

blah you don't count. that's only a few tanks