psychotic7

ok the car is a S5 with a TII swap utilizing the S5 NA harness. the car ran perfectly fine for months then one day it was driven hard down the road and it began to feel rough and then it got parked. from then on it will crank every time really strong, rev to 3k, throw a check engine light and die. so i reset the ECU and pull codes which were three
code 12 TPS full range
code 18 TPS narrow range
code 51 fuel pump resistor
I tried to adjust the TPS using the LED method which always works for me and for some reason i cant get any of the leds to ever come on.
So does this mean my TPS is toast? would that cause it to die immediately after start up?
Also where the heck is the fuel pump resistor? i jumped the yellow connector to bypass the AFM and Fuel Relay but still did the same thing. I tried everything i know and am begining to think its my TPS but want to get opinions from fellow forum members. thanks

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

The fuel pump resistor / relay is located behind the passenger-side headlight, near the airbox. I know of at least one person that has had this same problem, and solved it by replacing the resistor / relay.

If you're unfamiliar with it, the resistor / relay is responsible for switching the voltage the fuel pump sees from 12V to 9V. If there is a problem with it, it could easily cut fuel, which would kill the engine. Check if the FSM has a test for it.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

But wouldnt jumping the Yellow fuel pump test plug under the hood bypass the resistor/relay?? i mean if im correct the yellow plug makes the pump run no matter wat right??

psychotic7

thats what i thought....i just got off the phone with a guy who had the same prob. he said it was his AFM and it never threw a code for it. he replaced it and it worked fine after that so im gonna go buy one tomorrow from him and my friend aka RX7Boy06 has a spare relay i can try. still tryin to figure out why the darn TPS isnt checking out

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

A Likely cause is your MAFM is up-side-down. This is a safety feature that cuts the engine and fuel pump if your car goes up side down in the ditch. Check your MAFM

psychotic7

its a long shot but ill give it a try

psychotic7

the metal bracket/brace that goes over the AFM has two bolt holes that stick out on both sides....they are across the bottom of the AFM so it is upright. correct???

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Alright, so hopefully I'm reading this right...

It looks like the test connector puts a ground to the circuit opening relay, which bypasses the input from the AFM that is usually needed to energize it. But the fuel pump resistor/relay is still part of the loop. So, even with the test connector jumpered, the resistor/relay can affect the fuel pump. That, along with the fact that you're getting a code to check the resistor/relay makes me feel it should be your #1 suspect.

psychotic7

thanks man that cleared up some of the questions i had about the electrical side of things. ok well i swapped out the resistor and the same thing happened....3k and dead so im going to go ahead and hit up the number 2 suspect....the AFM. i am going to pick one up tomorrow along with a TPS so hopefully it will work

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

damn man sux that the resistor didnt work, hope the afm or tps does...

psychotic7

me too...looks like im goin to alvaredo tomorrow

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Let me know how that AFM works out for ya

psychotic7

well it happened again haha...i had my girl turn the key to the on position so i can hear the relay by the pass. headlight click and it didnt. all the others clicked and the pump primed but that one relay was a no go so im gonna take my boys advice and run a hot wire straight fromt the battery to see if that does the trick. if that doesnt work then im changing the TPS that i got from texFC...thanks by the way!!!! and from there i just dont know

psychotic7

ok i changed the TPS and hot wired the fuel pump and the same damn thing happened....ive ran every troubleshoot i can and three TPS and four AFMs later im back to square one.....could it be a vac leak??? i checked all the nipples and they are all capped properly. is there anywhere else on the engine that i need to check cause everything looks good to me

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Hell yea there are! Rotaries have too many f-ing vac lines, especially the turbo's.... Is this still the stock setup? What kind of mods are you running? check for cracks in the Turbo Inlet Duct, Intercooler piping / sleeves, around the turbo. Anything that could have come loose. Get a 2.5" pvc pipe cover, drill a hole in the center and mount a nozzle for an air compressor, seal it around the inlet on the turbo, turn on the compressor and listen for leaks! But the CEL coming on before hand is weird...

psychotic7

car is back to stock as fas as turbo setup. it has a large streetport with portmatched manifolds and a knightsport tuned ECU. it is throwing
code 26 OMP....can limp mode cause it not to crank???
cide 25 pressure regulator control but im sure thats emissions related which all are removed
Im going to pick up a NA ECU and at least try to crank the car

psychotic7

the NA ECU did the same thing??? im confused. does anybody know if the NA harness is plug and play with the TII if all emissions are removed and the boost solenoid is removed

skatingsamurai

did you check your afm? make sure its connected. just .02 if it is. wiggle it to see if you get a clicking sound.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

So it starts and runs.. but then shortly dies? Is the fuel pump runnign the entire time?
Do you have your Fuel lines backwards to hook up the fuel rails (sounds silly but can cause this problem)

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Yes, an S5 NA ecu will be basically plug n play with the S5 TII ecu. The knock sensor will be hooked to the VDI output, which will do nothing. But other than that, everything else will match up.

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

wat do you have to change on the na harness to get it to work on the tII?? ive looked at this car and it has quite a few cut and spliced wires under the dash goin to the ecu, and yes afm is plugged in, the gas lines are correct and as he said he hard wired the fuel pump to stay on and it still did the same thing....cranks goes to 3k and runs for like 2 sec check engine light comes on and it dies,,, itll do this like 100 times if you want

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Using the S5 NA harness on a S5 TII engine swap is really easy. Here is what changes.

1) Extend TPS wires
2) Cut off VDI plug & attach ECU wire to knock sensor (Pin 2M)
3) Plug 6PI plug into turbo duty solenoid (Pin 3R)

There isn't anything that you have to change under the dash. To swap in a TII EM harness you would need to re-wire a lot at the ECU plugs. Did someone else do this swap, and it was bought as is? Sure it's not a TII EM harness? That could introduce all sorts of problems if it wasn't wired in correctly.

psychotic7

well i had the car before and it ran great for about 6months with the way it is now. then i traded it for a civic and now i have it back and it has only been driven like 30 miles since i traded it. compression is great. electrical taped harness in many locations....the guy i got it back from drove it down the road really hard, it started to run like *** and it never crank ever again. i checked 4 vac leaks and could find none. i am 100% positive it is a NA harness...the TPS check plug is even by the passenger shock tower which is a dead giveaway. thanks for your help so far.

psychotic7

so far i changed the TPS with three others
changed ECU with another
tried 4 AFMs
checked for vac leaks
im going to change the harness soon and see where that gets me

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

The OMP is the only thing that sends the ECU in limp mode

limpmode=3500rpm REVLIMIT, AND 25% thottle limit, the revlimit stops (fuel?) on the front rotor, and the thottle limit stops the rear rotor(fuel?). 10secs is your window if it's indeed is in limpmode, turn your car on and off repeatedly every 9 secs and see if you can keep it running, i used to race my N/a vert at the strip like this .. lol its funny when you cross the line at 9.0 seconds and then your car backfires and shuts off...