I was only driving for about 20 mins and the temp gauge said more than a 1/4 so i drove home (less than 5 min drive since i was test driving it)

I took out the thermostat because it was overheating before with a brand new one i put in there, now i guess it still has the same problem cuz i could hear the coolant making noise etc when it shut off

what could be causing my coolant to do this ? are there any sensors that could cause this (sensor on the waterpump). What else could do this as this reallly blows and i dont know what i did wrong

the engine is rebuilt so i know its not my coolants seals, at least i wouldnt think it was since it only hasl ike 30 miles on it

edit - for the record this was in town driving going about 35 mph or less at 3500 rpm or less

 

Is your fan functioning properly? E-fan or stock clutch fan? How much over 1/4 was it? Up to half way on the stock gauge can still be in the normal range.

 

you are doing more damage by removing the thermostat than having it in, the coolant doesnt have enough time to sit in the coolant passages and absorb the heat from the engine so it gets really hot, you lose power and the engine wont last as long. get a 160 degree thermostat from mazdatrix, or get a 175 from www.rx7.com

make sure your rad cap is working properly, get a 16lb cap, see if that helps, make sure your rad is getting decent air flow, and make sure you have the engine under tray on.

 

i dont know if the fans working, its spinning so... its the clutch fan

it was just like a little bit over a 1/4 but not much , when i shut it off it was boiling and u can hear the coolant etc

 

Somehow I doubt it was boiling at only a little over 1/4, maybe you're mistaking some other normal noise for "boiling" noises? Who knows.

Whenever you end up putting a thermostat back in, just sit in your car with it idling (not driving around) and watch the temp gauge. Watch it go up to about 1/4 to 1/2 and see if it falls back down to 1/4 or below. If it does fall back down that's your thermostat opening and letting the radiator coolant in, and you know it's functioning properly. If it doesn't fall back down shut the car off at 1/2 on the stock gauge and I guess something else is messed up

 

oh and those coolant seals wont be good for too long if your dont run your thermostat

 

i didnt see a 160 degree one they said 180 on the parts order thing on mazdatrix

 

yea, you have to look at the entire list, they dont list it as a normal part on their site, you can call them and ask too, they might not sell it anymore, i havent looked for a while.

 

i have a new mazda one but i dont know whats up with it

 

I kind of disagree, I know plenty of people that have removed their thermostat in a desperate attempt to get more cooling when they couldn't figure out what was wrong and needed a temp fix. It worked fine, they ran it like that all summer with no cooling issues.

 

steam was coming out of the overflow cap/hose thing when u take it out/off

 

yea, the temp gauge shows no issues, im not arguing with that, because the coolant temp sensor does just that, shows coolant temp, it doesnt say "hey man, the coolant is free flowing and its not absorbing any heat from the engine, put a thermostat back in me"

if you dont have the thermostat the coolant doesnt absorb heat from the "block" like it needs to, so internally it heats up a lot more and the hot spots become even worse, you lose power and the coolant seals get hotter and wear out.

 

If you remove the thermostat you need to plug the water pump bypass hole.
With out it plugged only a small portion of the coolant will pass through the engine, most of it will just circulate through the radiator.

 

.... where do you get that from, if only a small amount was circulated through the engine then the coolant would get extremely hot and you'd be in a bad way.

 

well, bottom line, make sure you still have the engine under tray on, make sure the radiator is getting decent airflow and doesnt have a lot of bent fins where air cant flow through, if you got the stock clutch fan, make sure it has the radiator shroud over it, make sure you have a mazda thermostat, 160 or 180, and maybe try flushing the cooling system and refilling to your liking, either 50/50, distilled water and glycol, or distilled water.

 

It sounds like you got a leak in the cooling system somewhere.

Who did the engine rebuild?

If the cooling system is not totally sealed, your coolant will boil in a jiffy.
Normally, the system is pressurized to supress boiling.
Once you get a tiny pin-hole leak, it will overheat all the time due to boiling.

Change rad caps...
Make sure rad is not leaking...
Check all coolant hoses...
Check all clamps...


-Ted

 

here:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...t+modification

 

from what i've noticed it is very hard to see the thermostat "opening" on the stock gauge, at least on my S5.
you also have to realize that the thermostat doesn't open suddenly, but rather gradually opens.
the rated temp on the thermostat is simply the "full open" temperature. if the thermostat were to open all at once that would be bad.

 

That's because the s5 stock water temp gauge sucks, and doesn't move much after it gets to half way. The s4 is much better.

 

RETed - Kevin did his rebuild.

AgentD - We have been working on his cooling issue for about a week now. It has been suggest several times for him to remove his TS to help aid in figure out his cooling system. I can also vouch on removing the TS and having a N/A run absolutely perfect temps with no worries. It is suggested in case yours becomes stuck closed or for trouble shooting. As far as it free flowing and no sensor as you say. This means nothing. If the RAD is providing sufficient cooling capacity then it can sustain a proper temp. If he was out racing it and beating on it then yes it will overheat. Just testing it like he is, it won’t overheat.

wtfdidusay82 - Here is what I am going with.
1: Cloged RAD
2: Not properly filled RAD
3: Bad clutch fan
4: What ReTed said.

 

i topped off and filled everything again and bled it off, i think i still needed a little bit of coolant because it didnt get too hot this time it just stayed at a 1/4 the whole time when it was warm

but as far as the thermostat i need to test mine or buy one with the lowest rating for it to open up at

the fastest i go up to really is like 3500-4000 max, 90% of the time i goto 3000-3500 ( and this is not even sustained rpm i just switch gears once i get where i want) i whipped it into the turn switching gears into 2nd when first was at 3500rpm and it went sideways (barely from one tire losing traction, just happened to do it going slow cuz it was on a lefthand turn from a stop to go) like 2 or 3 times(alltogether in 5-6 days of driving) but i wasnt even barely on it to get up that high and the longest i drive it for is like 20 mins around the block and then let it cool off again, its never even been on the highway so i would imagine it will cool much better on highway driving with air to cool it down



where can i get a better thermostat ? i was also going to look ito an electric fan to help keep it cool. I would modify it to run no thermostat but id rather put one in there, im only running without one now because i dont know whats wrong with mine and i dont want to put it in again if i havent tested it to see what temp its opening at

 

heh, i knew you were going to say that

i'm just trying to make the point that the thermostat is not an on-off switch, fair enough?

 

Wrong, I havent used a TS since like 2001... No heating issues, car stays at perfect temp, even when romping on it.... This is on a koyo rad with stock fan, and far from stock setup.... Im not here to argue about which is better, but dont spread rumors unless you have experienced it first hand... heard of EWP??

 

Best TS is OEM :-/
E-fan should really only be considered if the clutch fan is dead or you need the room for some other mod. The clutch fan works spectacularly. You can also run into an issue of stock ALT not creating enough AMPS to run the E-fan and thus draining your batt.

On a side note the noise you were hearing from the tranny is a damaged clutch release bearing.

Sorry you have so many troubles, though it is conceivable when building a once non running car into a beautiful running car.

 

So did you block the bypass hole in the water pump housing?

I tried to run mine for just a short while with a cored thermostat and the Microtec was reading pretty hot (don't remember how hot) but the radiator never got hot at all.
I did not block the bypass because I didn't know about it until recently.
I just picked up a new thermostat yesterday and plan to install it this weekend.